corvette744
2004 Z-71
Under hood but i would check every fuse in the tahoe.
I need some no crank no start help,please!
- Thread starter L8NiTe
- Start date
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Check this out i just had a crazy thought,or a brilliant one.
When i got the truck it already had this problem,if that relay for the starter was malfunctioning staying stuck open that could over time degrade that starter switch wire.
I switched some relays around and i remember the one for either the starter or the ignition was getting hot through the plastic casing i could feel it easy.Now when i swapped them around some that relay that was getting hot ended up being on my headlights,i noticed last night even with the headlights set to off inside the truck,when i turned the key on they came on.
I feel like that relay was stuck sending voltage to the starter and over time it caused that wire to degrade and snap somewhere.Sorry if this sounds weird but i was trying to type out the thought i was still processing in my head lol.
When i got the truck it already had this problem,if that relay for the starter was malfunctioning staying stuck open that could over time degrade that starter switch wire.
I switched some relays around and i remember the one for either the starter or the ignition was getting hot through the plastic casing i could feel it easy.Now when i swapped them around some that relay that was getting hot ended up being on my headlights,i noticed last night even with the headlights set to off inside the truck,when i turned the key on they came on.
I feel like that relay was stuck sending voltage to the starter and over time it caused that wire to degrade and snap somewhere.Sorry if this sounds weird but i was trying to type out the thought i was still processing in my head lol.
HiHoeSilver
Away!
You're on the case, sleuth.
Scottydoggs
Full Access Member
you have auto headlights, they come on when its dark out when you turn the key to run.
you can turn them off by turning the light switch all the way left, its a spring type deal, it will turn back to off.
you can turn them off by turning the light switch all the way left, its a spring type deal, it will turn back to off.
Scottydoggs
Full Access Member
was there anything on the dash covering the solar sensor? that black bubble middle of the dash, cover that the head lights come on in the day time.
Last edited:
corvette744
2004 Z-71
Dont think so if that wire was getting any power your engine would be spinning over-trying to start.Your in the area keep checking.
It sounds like your neutral safety switch is bad or out of adjustment, if the switch thinks you are not in park or neutral it will not let the power go through to the solenoid wire on the starter; causing your exact symptom.
Sorry for the delay guys.We had tons of rain and flooding so i wasnt able to do much outside.
Ok so i put in a new crankshaft position sensor just to see if that fixed the issue,didnt help at all.I dont mind spending a little money atleast i know its all newer parts and shouldnt fail anytime soon.
I started poking around with the test light again and from what ive found is i have 2 sites that didnt light up the test light with the key cranked over like i was trying to start the truck.The starter trigger wire was not lighting the light up at the stud of the starter.Im not sure exactly which wire that is that runs from there to the relay im guessing in the under the hood fuse block.If anyone knows exactly where that trigger wire goes so i can test the other end of it i would appreciate it.
Also the IGN3 fuse in the driver side dash fuse block was not lighting up at all when turning the key over and trying to crank the truck.I traded that fuse with a couple new 10A fuses and same result.
Anyone have any more insight after i have explained these 2 things?I feel like im getting close but its just escaping my newbie grasp.As always thanks in advance for any info,tips and tricks.
Ok so i put in a new crankshaft position sensor just to see if that fixed the issue,didnt help at all.I dont mind spending a little money atleast i know its all newer parts and shouldnt fail anytime soon.
I started poking around with the test light again and from what ive found is i have 2 sites that didnt light up the test light with the key cranked over like i was trying to start the truck.The starter trigger wire was not lighting the light up at the stud of the starter.Im not sure exactly which wire that is that runs from there to the relay im guessing in the under the hood fuse block.If anyone knows exactly where that trigger wire goes so i can test the other end of it i would appreciate it.
Also the IGN3 fuse in the driver side dash fuse block was not lighting up at all when turning the key over and trying to crank the truck.I traded that fuse with a couple new 10A fuses and same result.
Anyone have any more insight after i have explained these 2 things?I feel like im getting close but its just escaping my newbie grasp.As always thanks in advance for any info,tips and tricks.
I have done a bit more reading and i came across a fella who had similar issue with a suburban.He got a new ignition cylinder thing and had his key made to work with it by a lock smith and he said that fixed it.This is what he posted in his last post after he fixed it.
---The ignition key cylinder, oddly enough. It looked fine, but for some reason wasnt. There is some kind of a pick up switch that rides on the top of the cylinder, as part of the ignition switch harness. Im guessing it had to do with that some how. Anyway, the "yellow" wire thats apparently infamous, is what carries the voltage in start position to the fuse box inside of vehicle, to the back of the fuse box. Its the first wire you see when you pull the knee cover off under dash. This goes to I think fuse "ign 3" in the box, then thru passlock "comp" to neutral safety switch, then to the starter relay. Maybe the easiest way to see if neutral switch is ok, is to use your "VOM", and run a continuity test from the yellow wire to starter relay terminal 30 i believe, as this should have cont. in neutral or park. They say test power before and after the neutral switch, but thats much easier said then done. ---
Is this something i should do as well?Hes not getting power to his starter,im not getting it to mine,hes not getting power from the ign3,neither am i.Sounds dead on to my issue.
---The ignition key cylinder, oddly enough. It looked fine, but for some reason wasnt. There is some kind of a pick up switch that rides on the top of the cylinder, as part of the ignition switch harness. Im guessing it had to do with that some how. Anyway, the "yellow" wire thats apparently infamous, is what carries the voltage in start position to the fuse box inside of vehicle, to the back of the fuse box. Its the first wire you see when you pull the knee cover off under dash. This goes to I think fuse "ign 3" in the box, then thru passlock "comp" to neutral safety switch, then to the starter relay. Maybe the easiest way to see if neutral switch is ok, is to use your "VOM", and run a continuity test from the yellow wire to starter relay terminal 30 i believe, as this should have cont. in neutral or park. They say test power before and after the neutral switch, but thats much easier said then done. ---
Is this something i should do as well?Hes not getting power to his starter,im not getting it to mine,hes not getting power from the ign3,neither am i.Sounds dead on to my issue.
