if you have a grinding from the front end/bad hub..change it now!

[rpmgraphics]

What's the inside secret into actually getting the hub OFF the knuckle. All the bolts are out, caliper and bracket are off. I don't want to use too much force with a gear puller as that is pushing the drive shaft back into the cv boot. I sprayed wd40 all around the stuck joint in hopes of loosing, now just waiting a while......Anybody?

 

[DTS]

IIRC, when I installed my spindles, I used a BFH with the axle nut still on, but loosened so that it creates a "flat surface" for me to hammer on. I had already removed the inner axles 6 bolts.

 

[Nickleahy23]

we beat the ever living crap out of mine..partially why it was in pieces in the pictures lol...just keep at it..get some pb blaster and soak everything down

 

[rpmgraphics]

I got tied up and forgot to post. It took a liberal soaking of wd40 and a hammer. The new ones went on perfectly. Round trip to Budds creek for motocross race and they rode smooth as glass. Thanks to all for the input.....Forums like this have helped with all our boating, motocross, and home stuff. Ain't technology great? Well....... at least until it breaks down......Pat...

 

[thehoe92]

so I would like to know if my problem is hub related or not..

after finishing up the rear brakes I go test drive it to see if it had fixed the constant squeaking I was hearing and it didn't, it was actually worse

go to stop and as I get down between 10-0mph I feel this grinding in the drivers front wheel

I think its brake related like I'm starting to dig into the rotor but I don't know

it honestly sounds like there is something lodged in between the brake pad and rotor

also how much are the hubs because I would like to just replace both at the same time and call it good

 

[Max]

Check the hubs to see if they're smoked first, they might be fine and you can spend the money on other parts. Jack the truck up and spin the wheel with it still bolted down, you'll be able to hear a grinding noise. Another method is to stick a prybar under the wheel and pull up while someone looks at the hub/balljoints to see if there is any play.

 

[Nickleahy23]

so I would like to know if my problem is hub related or not..

after finishing up the rear brakes I go test drive it to see if it had fixed the constant squeaking I was hearing and it didn't, it was actually worse

go to stop and as I get down between 10-0mph I feel this grinding in the drivers front wheel

I think its brake related like I'm starting to dig into the rotor but I don't know

it honestly sounds like there is something lodged in between the brake pad and rotor

also how much are the hubs because I would like to just replace both at the same time and call it good

i paid just over $100 for the hub i believe..

my sound wasnt constant..like one noise per revolution..i think my drivers side is bad now..when pulling into the parking lot i get a noice on each turn of the tire..

 

[Max]

I didn't notice you put the rack back on Nick, looks much better I think all it needs is some dark ass tint, esky rails, and a bit of colormatching...stance on the 4s is perfect

 

[Nickleahy23]

I didn't notice you put the rack back on Nick, looks much better I think all it needs is some dark ass tint, esky rails, and a bit of colormatching...stance on the 4s is perfect

ya i need to retint it in a few weeks..i have 5% on the front, but the backs are still stock 20..maybe ill get ambitious this week..

ya i put the rack back on a while ago..just looked boring to me..

im gonna paint the bumper cap forsure, and id love an esky rack if i could find one for a decent price..

and ya im real happy with the stance right now..i mean i could go down another inch in the rear and front, but then id need spindles, new springs, new shocks etc and right now its not worth the price..i love how these tires dont wear at all

 

[Max]

Trust me it isn't worth the extra inch or so especially with big wheels, sometimes I wish mine were still 2/4 with keys and stock autoride shock...damn that was a long time ago.