I'm here to introduce myself. Hoping to own a 'Hoe soon.

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TURNz

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I use a full-size SUV for my work vehicle. I am currently driving a 98 Expedition that is rusting out from under itself. I plan to scrap it by the end of February. I've hated it since I've owned it (My first and probably last Ford ever) I'd like to replace it with a Tahoe. My budget is small (I wasn't expecting to have to replace a vehicle yet), but I have seen some Tahoes in my price range on CL.

I need 4wd, 4dr. My plan is to lean towards the blacked out, subdued look, even if I don't find a BLACK truck. One thing I do want is the black police wheels with the center caps. So one question that I have is what years of police steelies will fit a 97-99 4wd Tahoe?

Color preferences are Black, Silver, Dark Green or White, but honestly I'm looking for one that looks to be in the best condition. Reliablity is number 1. This won't be a "project truck" as in a fun truck. It's to make me money, and so down time for repairs won't help that.

I'm not posting this to shop for a vehicle, just sort of an introduction post. Hopefully in a couple weeks I'll have a Tahoe in my driveway, and then I can start asking questions and participating more in the forum.
 

Ceejkay

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welcome.. i curious as to what your price range is? also if you dont mind, what kind of work do you do/ tahoe will do? take a look through the forums here to get an idea of some of the issues we run into.. alot of them have tall tale signs that you can pick up on even when you go to view a vehicle..
 
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TURNz

TURNz

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I am looking to spend about $4000 or less.

I am a State Constable. I use my Expedition to serve Warrants and sometimes take people to jail. I have front and rear cages that will be swapped over to the Tahoe.

I've been reading what I can, but I didn't find a list of "Tell Tale Signs" when you are looking to buy a Tahoe.
 

raptorforme93

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You should be able to find a worth ride for that range if you keep your eyes open. Everyone just loves you with your job dont they? Hahaha. Welcome to the forum man!!
 

Ceejkay

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I've been reading what I can, but I didn't find a list of "Tell Tale Signs" when you are looking to buy a Tahoe.

pretty much misfires and CHL are big signs that you should walk away, especially with that budget.. look around for obvious coolant leaks, check reservoir before you test drive and after.. burnt smell on the tranny dipstick, also pick their brain about what has been done to the truck.. just general stuff people dont think to look at if they havent bought a used vehicle in a while..
 

bowtiefreak

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welcome. You should be able to find a decent truck in that range. Hell, blue book on my thoe is like 4500 or somehting in great condition. Makes me want to cry.
 
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TURNz

TURNz

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CHL? Check Engine Light? Whats CHL?

Is there a model year or specific "feature" to stay away from?


Raptor: Yes, most of my "clients" don't care to ever do business with me again.
 

ezdaar

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This post will get long, lol.

First stay away from the dbl door on the rear end, they block 90% of your vision out the rear view mirror.
Besides that giant lift gate is really nice when your placing or retrieving items from the back during the rain :)

Millage on these LS based motors is really no concern until they get over the 200k mark. They are Extremly well built and reliable blocks. Thats not to say various sensors dont fail, as they do.
Just dont shy away from a 130k mile motor if the interior and ext is mint.
Since you will be caging it, You will make ALOT of money back selling items you remove.

Do you pay for your own gas on the job?
If not frind a 04+ 6.0. Pre 04 the 6.0 has weak rods, not saying they will break under "normal" driving conditions, just based on your job, you maybe driving it harder than most.
That and the 6.0 will be better suited to haul around those cages and all your gear.
We have quite a few LEO's on this site and all of them eventually have done extensive mods to their 5.3's to get on the job performance.

When your doing your inspection. remove the plastic intake from the throttle body, use a flash light and look up inside the TB.
Your looking for excessive amounts of oil in the intake. If its really oily that engine consumes oil at 1 quart per 3-5k miles.
Look closely at the spark plugs, if they are rusty looking and dirty and the engine doesnt stumble at idle. your GTG and probly wont ever get the random missfire problem.

Check the oil pan for the drain bolt leaking, if it is Replace it or the seal on it, DONT try to tighten it anymore, the pan is aluminum and will strip.

If its 4x4 check the transfer case carefully for ANY leaks, if its clean and hasnt been leaking your GTG, if it has ANY dark dirty fluid around the seals, Check and see how full it is, as the PO might have never changed/ checked it and it maybe almost dry inside.

During test drive, put it in drive then immidiatly go to reverse, listen close for loud Clunk. as this maybe a sign of Ujoints or worn out rear end.
Also during test drive, pay carefull attention to how the steering wheel feels and sounds during slow turns, If you feel ANY thud or hear a clunk it is a sign of bad intermidiate shaft or pitman / idler arm up front.
also check the steering gear box where the pitman arm connects for leaks. These are VERY expensivve to replace, just a heads up..

Check and see if its hydraulic brakes, aka look and see if its missing the bigass brake booster behind master cylinder..
IF it is Hydro assist brakes, check power steering fluid, see if its black, brown and or burnt. If really simple to flush and fill this type of system, its just to good check.
You WANT hydro assist brakes, just check it out, for possible $$ leverage against PO..


Thats about all I can think of atm.
GL with your buy.
 
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TURNz

TURNz

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Thanks for this write up. I added some notes and questions within the quote in RED

This post will get long, lol.

First stay away from the dbl door on the rear end, they block 90% of your vision out the rear view mirror.
Besides that giant lift gate is really nice when your placing or retrieving items from the back during the rain :)
My wife's Suburban has barn doors, and rear view isn't too bad. Though my rearview mirror is mostly useless in my Expedition. The reflection from the plexi in the cage doesn't help much.
0810091651c.jpg


Millage on these LS based motors is really no concern until they get over the 200k mark. They are Extremly well built and reliable blocks. Thats not to say various sensors dont fail, as they do.
Just dont shy away from a 130k mile motor if the interior and ext is mint.
Since you will be caging it, You will make ALOT of money back selling items you remove.
I am hoping for under 150k. I found a couple with over 200k, but claim to have less than 50k on the crate motor and rebuilt tranny. Though 250k miles on the brake lines, fuel lines, and frame components worries me. My exped has 270k on the body, but they replaced the motor at 140k. There is still a ton of rust issues, which is why I am junking it.

Do you pay for your own gas on the job? I get reimbursed for most mileage, but buy my own gas.
If not frind a 04+ 6.0. Pre 04 the 6.0 has weak rods, not saying they will break under "normal" driving conditions, just based on your job, you maybe driving it harder than most. My vehicle doesn't get abused, like most police cars. No pursuit, no 12 hour shifts (usually), no pit maneuvers ;). I have had to pull the occasional rolling road block and some of the orchard and rural roads aren't suited for a crown vic. I don't run red and blue lights, but I do run radios, scanners, GPS, and laptop/ printer, so I may need to upgrade the alternator. I also plan to run some "offroad" style lights, spotlights and driving lights, which will probably have more draw than a police light bar.
That and the 6.0 will be better suited to haul around those cages and all your gear.
We have quite a few LEO's on this site and all of them eventually have done extensive mods to their 5.3's to get on the job performance. As I am looking for 98 or 99 most likely, with my budget, I assume 5.7L is my only choice?

When your doing your inspection. remove the plastic intake from the throttle body, use a flash light and look up inside the TB.
Your looking for excessive amounts of oil in the intake. If its really oily that engine consumes oil at 1 quart per 3-5k miles.
Look closely at the spark plugs, if they are rusty looking and dirty and the engine doesnt stumble at idle. your GTG and probly wont ever get the random missfire problem. Do you mean removing a spark plug, or if the "nut" part is rusty, to indicate it hasn't been changed recently?

Check the oil pan for the drain bolt leaking, if it is Replace it or the seal on it, DONT try to tighten it anymore, the pan is aluminum and will strip.

If its 4x4 check the transfer case carefully for ANY leaks, if its clean and hasnt been leaking your GTG, if it has ANY dark dirty fluid around the seals, Check and see how full it is, as the PO might have never changed/ checked it and it maybe almost dry inside.

During test drive, put it in drive then immidiatly go to reverse, listen close for loud Clunk. as this maybe a sign of Ujoints or worn out rear end.
Also during test drive, pay carefull attention to how the steering wheel feels and sounds during slow turns, If you feel ANY thud or hear a clunk it is a sign of bad intermidiate shaft or pitman / idler arm up front.
also check the steering gear box where the pitman arm connects for leaks. These are VERY expensivve to replace, just a heads up..

Check and see if its hydraulic brakes, aka look and see if its missing the bigass brake booster behind master cylinder..
IF it is Hydro assist brakes, check power steering fluid, see if its black, brown and or burnt. If really simple to flush and fill this type of system, its just to good check.
You WANT hydro assist brakes, just check it out, for possible $$ leverage against PO..


Thats about all I can think of atm.
GL with your buy.
 

Ceejkay

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the light issue shouldnt be a problem, a nbs tahoe 145a alternator and you should be good with lights.. or dual battery set up, the obs only came in 5.7..
 

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