Inspect your brake calipers if you have a g80 rear axle

[LordWayback]

Mud bogging eats the dust boot rubber up because you get out of the bog and then drive and build heat with the mud packed in there. The actual seal, that holds the fluid back, is exposed to anything that follows after the dust boot opens up. I mud bogged in Mo., man that was way more fun than off roading here in Oregon, and at the events, we had pressure hoses to get in there to blow the mud and crud out before hitting the asphalt.

I think literal mud got into the brake system and this is gonna be $$$$$$$$$

 

[Doubeleive]

I think literal mud got into the brake system and this is gonna be $$$$$$$$$

nah, not unless you took the cap off and threw some in there.
I flush mine out annually because it gets burnt
brake fluid is almost clear, not black

 

[LordWayback]

nah, not unless you took the cap off and threw some in there.
I flush mine out annually because it gets burnt
brake fluid is almost clear, not black

The stuff they pulled out felt and looked like mud but smelled like bad brake fluid it was so bad they clogged the brake flush machine and a manual brake flush floor pump , this was after some flushing and adding it was pitch black before

 

[LordWayback]

nah, not unless you took the cap off and threw some in there.
I flush mine out annually because it gets burnt
brake fluid is almost clear, not black

They specifically said that this is the worst they’ve ever seen any master cylinder’s brake fluid they could be lying to make me feel better about a new part but still it was terrible I don’t get how I get the short end of the stick by actually maintaining my vehicle if I didn’t touch my rear brakes this might’ve not happened

 

[Doubeleive]

They specifically said that this is the worst they’ve ever seen any master cylinder’s brake fluid they could be lying to make me feel better about a new part but still it was terrible I don’t get how I get the short end of the stick by actually maintaining my vehicle if I didn’t touch my rear brakes this might’ve not happened

when i bought my 2012 in 2017 I took to a shop that i know does good work and and specifically requested for the brake fluid to be flushed because I figured it had never been done and he said it was pretty bad and that it took a lot of fluid to flush it out I guess it turns to mucous or something if it isn't flushed. I know mine turns black as coffee in a year

 

[Alex_M]

I done see any fluid loss at the caliper. What your describing sounds more like master cylinder failure.

Edit: just read the rest of the thread. Tough break. Odd to see that many parts "fail" at once if everything else was working normally.

By my count master cylinder is a $200 part and 2.5 hours labor at $65-100/hr. I'd charge 2 quarts of brake fluid to get everything bled thru well at $15/qt. Call it $480. $900 is high unless they're also charging diagnostic time at 4+ hrs.... Way high on time.

If caliper is bad, that's roughly a $70 part, plus $30 hose. Call it a half hour labor. That's $150

Have you seen your brake pads? If it needs pads, call that $100 in pads, but if you still have pad left then those can wait. If your braking was smooth before, I'd also wait on the rotors. Replace the one that's gouged if you're concerned about it. $85/rotor.

These are rough estimates, but they should be pretty close. The totals I figured at $100/hr - varies depending on shop and region, but you've got a rough time estimate so you can figure if you know what they charge/hr.

 

[swathdiver]

I done see any fluid loss at the caliper. What your describing sounds more like master cylinder failure.

Yep, that's what I was thinking, if the pedal hits the floor and there's no fluid on the ground, it's almost always the MC.

Calipers can be rebuilt easily enough, they contain just a few parts.

Same parts for front and rear:

Piston - 25848320/172-2412
Seal Kit - 23276875/179-2262

Been there, done that!

 

[LordWayback]

I done see any fluid loss at the caliper. What your describing sounds more like master cylinder failure.

Edit: just read the rest of the thread. Tough break. Odd to see that many parts "fail" at once if everything else was working normally.

By my count master cylinder is a $200 part and 2.5 hours labor at $65-100/hr. I'd charge 2 quarts of brake fluid to get everything bled thru well at $15/qt. Call it $480. $900 is high unless they're also charging diagnostic time at 4+ hrs.... Way high on time.

If caliper is bad, that's roughly a $70 part, plus $30 hose. Call it a half hour labor. That's $150

Have you seen your brake pads? If it needs pads, call that $100 in pads, but if you still have pad left then those can wait. If your braking was smooth before, I'd also wait on the rotors. Replace the one that's gouged if you're concerned about it. $85/rotor.

These are rough estimates, but they should be pretty close. The totals I figured at $100/hr - varies depending on shop and region, but you've got a rough time estimate so you can figure if you know what they charge/hr.

$165/h they are bringing me to the ******* cleaners $600+ and they still refuse a caliper replacement until I do rotors ALL 4 with my $300 of parts I handed them yesterday this is a $900+ ordeal **** because they’re still not done they have my truck practically hostage and taking me to the cleaners on my credit card

 

[LordWayback]

Yep, that's what I was thinking, if the pedal hits the floor and there's no fluid on the ground, it's almost always the MC.

Calipers can be rebuilt easily enough, they contain just a few parts.

Same parts for front and rear:

Piston - 25848320/172-2412
Seal Kit - 23276875/179-2262

Been there, done that!

The caliper is only $70 not including the core and taxes the only part is they’re robbing me on labor and shit I don’t need , had they just kept flushing my master cylinder it would be perfectly fine the whole idea is that it’s full of junk blocking the flow but that’s just a proper flush and done. But they’re cleaning me out for like 3 hours of labor

 

[MassHoe04]

If the master cylinder is squared away and they are done with flushing the worst of thing out of the system...

Maybe tow it home and do the caliper replacement and bleed yourself. I have done one-man brake bleeds myself. Not a big deal. Use a bleed tube with check valve (like $10 from parts store) and plastic soda bottle method. Nothing fancy or expensive required.