Installing Beltech 2/3 kit,many extra bits needed?

[CrashTestDummy]

Are you going to run 17? Or ever plan to? The ball joints stems will require trimmingView media item 10581

Well, I forgot the PPV was running 17's. I thought it was running on 18's like our 9C1, but no! Not only do you HAVE to trim the stud, you HAVE to have a shorter nut there. The used kit I got was short those two nuts. I spent the good part of yesterday afternoon trying to locate a pair of 18 X 1.5 mm nuts.

We also needed to get some new sway bar end links, as the ones on the truck are beat up pretty good. The parts house computer said they had three kits in stock, but they had none on the shelf, so hopefully, they will be available for me to pick up later this morning.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

Okay,so we're mostly done. I could NOT figure out how the **** to get the DJM sway bar links to work. Neither way would line up! How do they work?? Right now, I have the OEM links installed, just so we can get the truck back in operation.

We spent WAY too much time this afternoon just trying t figure out how to get those stupid DJM end links to work. What's the secret decoder ring?

If I'm coming off as angry, I am. This project took way more effort than it should have.

 

[NORCAL SS]

please call me

1) you need to drill 2 holes on drivers side bracket
2) 3/8 bolts will go into new holes
3) then you push over bar to pass side


theres a reason i have my number here for 24/7 support. Im around always to help just call me

 

[CrashTestDummy]

Tony, thank you. The reason I didn't bother you is because we didn't get this kit from you. I'll do that this afternoon, though. Thank you.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

Hmm, is there a reason to push the bar over to the passenger side of the vehicle, other than to get the bar to line up with the relocated end links? That kind of puts the end of the bar into interference with the emergency brake cabling on that side, at least that's what it looks like to me.

I may have found an alternative solution, that I'm going to try, unless having the bar centered in the vehicle just won't work. I have found some Helwig adjustable sway bar end links. We use them on our race car. I've ordered a set. They should be here so we can install them this weekend. I'll keep all updated on progress. Thanks.

 

[NORCAL SS]

You cut braces off frame. When putting the end links and not moving away bar over the swaybar hits the frame and snaps the end link along with horrible ride

 

[Rocket Man]

Hmm, is there a reason to push the bar over to the passenger side of the vehicle, other than to get the bar to line up with the relocated end links? That kind of puts the end of the bar into interference with the emergency brake cabling on that side, at least that's what it looks like to me.

I may have found an alternative solution, that I'm going to try, unless having the bar centered in the vehicle just won't work. I have found some Helwig adjustable sway bar end links. We use them on our race car. I've ordered a set. They should be here so we can install them this weekend. I'll keep all updated on progress. Thanks.

I had the same question when I installed my DJM's but it works. Sucks that DJM sometimes leave instructions out. Like Tony said, you do need to move the swaybar over for clearance from the frame. That new nut and bolt are a ***** to install, BTW. The e-brake cable should clear better as soon as you lower the truck back down if I remember right. The clearances all change as soon as you lower things back into place. As it sits with the suspension hanging is not how it looks once it's back on the ground. You can't leave the bar centered unless you leave the end links too long to have it parallel to the ground. As far as front end links, I suggest going with Energy Suspension. You'll need shorter ones and need to install the old stock ones at least temporarily so you can measure to see how long the new ones need to be. If you buy stock length, your front sway won't be parallel to the ground. If you go to www.energysuspension.com and click "download catalog" , on page 7 or 8 they have a good chart and explanation of how to measure. I also had to modify (utility knife or grinder works) the poly bushings that came with mine as they didn't fit the holes in my DJM front swaybar. When lowering these trucks, there's always things that have to be worked out no matter how prepared we try to be. Good luck, and remember it will be worth it.

Edit: I seem to remember bending my e-brake bracket but like Tony said, you can always cut the brackets off.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Wow! Is this what I have to look forward to?

 

[NORCAL SS]

once truck is on the ground will clear

Free travel mod and straigth shorter endlinks will be a fail. The bar hits the panhard bar brackets makes a horrible clanking noise/and endlinks snap so no way around it unless you dont care about breaking stuff/bad ride.

and remember 30 LBS MAX TORQUE ON ENDLINKS. the endlinks are way easy to install

1) drill 2 3/8 holes on drivers side bracket 3/4 of a inch away from current holes
2) mount the bracket to axle
3) put endlinks on truck
4) done

 

[Rocket Man]

Wow! Is this what I have to look forward to?

Yes if you're lowering the rear by 3" or more. For 2" no problem I don't believe. I went with 2" drop spindles in the front and 3" Belltech springs in the rear. Getting your sway bars to work correct is definitely advised though. Also, the further you drop these rigs, the more out of whack the rear geometry gets. The wheels will move to the right and back, more so the further you drop it. These don't necessarily affect the handling but if you have big wheels or if it bothers you how it looks, you will need to correct it. You might also start hitting the bumpstops so there's something called the free travel mod which is almost free but takes some work. In front and rear, the swaybars get pushed up so they're not parallel to the ground so they don't work right. Most of us not only like our trucks to look better by being lowered, but also like to improve the handling at the same time. I ran mine without fixing the rear geometry or swaybar issues and didn't realize there was any issue. It handled fine but my right rear tire rubbed during hard left-hand turns. But then I read more and ended up with new beefier front and rear swaybars, shorter and stronger front and rear endlinks, an adjustable panhard bar (for side-to-side in the rear) and then worked my autoride (that's a whole other subject) so it all works perfect. Now it handles amazing for a big SUV on 26" rims. I didn't need to get the adjustable upper and lower rear control arms to adjust the front-to-rear clearance since mine ended up being only 3/8" difference in my wheelwells but that is necessary for some, especially with more of a drop. A 1 /2 drop probably doesn't require anything but I'm not sure. A 2/ 3 drop like mine most likely will require at least some of these and anything lower will probably require the full gamut.