Is Dealer Blowing Smoke Up My....?

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LarryGee

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Had to replace passenger side headlight housing because it was cracked and moisture corroded the bulb contact points. I replaced BOTH housings to match, with aftermarket housings and replace with new bulb sockets and bulbs.

EDIT: The passenger side turn signal worked until it didn’t. End EDIT:

Passenger side turn signal won't blink. Driver side does. I couldn't figure it out so I took it to the dealer.

Dealer says that GM control module won't recognize aftermarket housings.

Dealer also says that driver side is measuring 12v but the passenger side is only measuring 1v.

Dealer says new OEM headlights will fix the problem. OEM headlights are $935 each.

Are they blowing smoke up my a%% ?
 
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B-train

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Electricity doesn't care if it's OEM or aftermarket if all things are equal. If you went from LED to incandescent, or regular bulb to a HID setup, then you may have issues with the circuitry based on load, etc.

But, again, if like for like was replaced, then I don't see how an OEM one will be better. Your OEM one stopped working due to corrosion and you have low voltage at that pin/connector. If it was corroded, I'd look further back up the wire harness for wires that are corroded, or split where you maybe only have 1 good strand left. Another possibility is that it's grounding itself out, hence 1V.
 

Tonyv__

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No. It was, until it didn’t . That’s what led me to discovering the corrosion on the headlight housing and replacing the housing, bulb socket and bulb.
Yeah I’d lean on the headlight not getting adequate voltage. Tell them they can fix the actual issue (1v at the passenger side headlight) or just take your business elsewhere.
 
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LarryGee

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Electricity doesn't care if it's OEM or aftermarket if all things are equal. If you went from LED to incandescent, or regular bulb to a HID setup, then you may have issues with the circuitry based on load, etc.

But, again, if like for like was replaced, then I don't see how an OEM one will be better. Your OEM one stopped working due to corrosion and you have low voltage at that pin/connector. If it was corroded, I'd look further back up the wire harness for wires that are corroded, or split where you maybe only have 1 good strand left. Another possibility is that it's grounding itself out, hence 1V.

All bulbs stayed stock.

It could be the harness except that the doesn’t directly connect to the bulb socket. It connects to the main housing pin connector and that was corrosion free.
 

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LarryGee

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Finding and fixing the cause for the voltage drop was my first thought as well.

However, that’s when they suggested that the OEM housing has proprietary recognition capability via the control module.

They are implying that aftermarket housings Will not be recognized by the control module.

That’s where I think they are full of BS. However, they are a dealer and have the scan tools that most shops do not have.
 

Tonyv__

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Finding and fixing the cause for the voltage drop was my first thought as well.

However, that’s when they suggested that the OEM housing has proprietary recognition capability via the control module.

They are implying that aftermarket housings Will not be recognized by the control module.

That’s where I think they are full of BS. However, they are a dealer and have the scan tools that most shops do not have.
Ask them to explain why your driver side works and passenger doesn’t. Since you replaced both of them with aftermarket
 
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LarryGee

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Ask them to explain why your driver side works and passenger doesn’t. Since you replaced both of them with aftermarket

I did. That’s when they said that the aftermarket housing isn’t good quality and Tahoe control module isn’t “recognizing” it.
 

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