Is my 5.7 too tight?

[redwing4900]

I broke off the starter connector when i was removing it one of the 50 times cleaned it up and installed another end I shot the new power wire after repairs and i get no resistance (good) and also have a good ground signal. There was a lot of corrosion on both ends of the starter power wire but zero resistance now. I checked the starter relay its good. I'm going to check fuses verify voltage is where it should be and shoot some wires today. Fun!

 

[willxfs]

I would take a multi meter and test the static battery voltage on the battery post. Then test the voltage at the battery while someone turns the key to start the truck. Then I would take battery voltage at the starter while some one turns the key. Compare results. It sure sounds like your not getting good voltage to the starter or the starter is going bad.

 

[bigfootchiro]

Have you had the CCA of the battery tested? You could have enough voltage reading from the battery or at your power connection, but if some of the banks inside the battery are dead, you won’t have enough CCA to turn the engine over

 

[redwing4900]

I have had the batteries (actually using 2) checked by O’Reilly’s also did a load test and that was good too.
Now for an update I was NOT able to get my starter bump to work and I couldn’t figure out why until I noticed the chassis ground bolt was very loose the one the connects the bell housing to the engine. I found it while looking underneath the vehicle. Couldn’t believe that I left it, but I moved on tightened her up and then while checking for ground everywhere I saw that it was very good especially by the area near the starter. So I hooked up the negative battery cable that I was going to replace because I had nothing else...hooked up the battery it was midnight and I tried the starter bump...and it worked! I figured I was on a roll so I installed the fuel solenoid and tried the key...she fired right up! I couldn’t believe it.
That was the first time a ground ever caused me fits. But now of course there’s a new problem. The initial timing I had set seemed to be making her run quite rough so I attempted to move the distributor one tooth that’s what I told myself at the time. Then only today I embarked on a three hour frustration laden session of removing the distributor I think 6times moving her another tooth this was after I setup #1 at tdc compression of course but could NOT GET HER TO GO! Timing was bad.
I think it may be the fuel filter I’m going to get a couple more tomorrow I hope that’s it because she sounded great but I never got her up to temperature because I was so worried about the timing bad move.
So question: how can I “scrub” a gas tank without removing it? Should I keep changing out fuel filters in hopes that they will clean the tank or should I just drop the tank and do it that way(I’d rather not)? Is there a product I could use to expedite this cleaning?
I also wonder if the ac delco fuel filter can be cleaned of the debris. Again I REALLY hope that is my current problem because it was sputtering and I am hoping my exhaustion from last night caused me to overlook the obvious...she was fuel starved, While thinking it was a timing problem.
Sorry for the long post but I think this could help someone down the road...thank you all for your input thus far. I will let you know what happens with the fuel filter change.

 

[Rocket Man]

Just another reminder that the + is worthless without the -. Grounds are the most overlooked electrical issues yet are every bit as important as all the positive wires combined.

 

[drakon543]

distributor placement is very touchy on these you have a small window the ecu will allow for without throwing a code or run ong rough. story i dont feel like getting into but im on my 4th distributor. however ive done it enough in a short time i can set one i pretty quick. also if you didnt notice the oil pump is driven off the distributor so getting them both to match up can sometimes be difficult.

 

[redwing4900]

Now I’m not sure if I have an ignition timing problem or fuel pump. When I start the motor it fires right up then 10 seconds later it’s fighting to stay started. It surges a little bit then revs right up by the way it’s idling at 1000-1200 rpm. My theory is that the engine is racing because it’s lean then when it gets more fuel it burns it right up.
I pulled off the fuel filter thinking it would be full of gunk from the tank but it was fine I could blow into it and the resistance was just as much as the new filter I had ready to go. I put the original back in.
I plan to get the fuel pressure tester from oreillys tonight and check that tomorrow.
One thing I noticed when removing the fuel filter, was that when I released the pressure from the valve there was none. No fuel released...Should there have been? I thought there always was pressure or supposed to be. I haven’t ran it since yesterday.
After I ran the motor I pressed the release again and this time it squirted gas like it should.

 

[redwing4900]

distributor placement is very touchy on these you have a small window the ecu will allow for without throwing a code or run ong rough. story i dont feel like getting into but im on my 4th distributor. however ive done it enough in a short time i can set one i pretty quick. also if you didnt notice the oil pump is driven off the distributor so getting them both to match up can sometimes be difficult.

I’m pretty proficient at moving the distributor one tooth now, but I wish I wasn't(!).
Remove cap; remove #1 spark plug; thread in whistle stop; hook up starter bump; slide hold down all the way back; get motor to tdc compression stroke for #1; figure out how cap should line up when I can only turn it 1/16th of a turn for adjustment so it has to be perfect pretty much; lift distributor try to move it only one tooth in the CORRECT direction it never lines up with the oil pump for just one tooth so then you bump the starter until it sits back down; get it back to tdc for #1 compression; make sure cap #1 lines up or is close with rotor at tdc; if it’s good put the hold down back but don’t tighten it too much; o I forgot unplug the distributor before you lift it, now you can plug it back in; put cap back on don’t lose the screws they are NOT captive; take out whistle stop put spark plug back in and torque it. Start engine
This was my craziness for 3hours last night times 5or6.

 

[drakon543]

long flathead screwdriver works faster to align the pump shaft. last 2 i swapped was 30 min and i dont bother with a scanner anymore to get my 0 degree timing. actually #4 was initially done at a garage because i didn't have time they tried to tell me there was another problem. pulled the distributor myself right there turned the pump shaft and dropped it back in and told them to clear the code.

 

[redwing4900]

long flathead screwdriver works faster to align the pump shaft. last 2 i swapped was 30 min and i dont bother with a scanner anymore to get my 0 degree timing. actually #4 was initially done at a garage because i didn't have time they tried to tell me there was another problem. pulled the distributor myself right there turned the pump shaft and dropped it back in and told them to clear the code.

I will try that on this next adjustment. My buddy let me borrow his obdii scanner Going to see what codes come u and try to time it that way. Going for a breakthrough today i want this thing out of my garage because she needs to start pulling boats around. Fun!