Is my 5.7 too tight?

[drakon543]

you need a fairly advanced scanner to have the timing feature. i cant remember the code for improper timing but its + or - 2 degrees from 0. anymore or less will give you a code and a little more and it will start to run rough. 1 or 2 teeth off and spinning the body will get you in more than that and the body hits the intake.

 

[redwing4900]

you need a fairly advanced scanner to have the timing feature. i cant remember the code for improper timing but its + or - 2 degrees from 0. anymore or less will give you a code and a little more and it will start to run rough. 1 or 2 teeth off and spinning the body will get you in more than that and the body hits the intake.

You're right about the advanced scanner the one I borrowed Centech could tell me what the spark advance was for #1--17 degrees...this can't be correct even though it was running fairly smoothly at that setting. The book I have says that the cam retard reading on the scanner should either read +2 or -2 or somewhere in between. The 17 degree advance by the way was accurate I checked with the timing light I made a slight adjust,net to see if it would make a difference and it showed 24 degrees of advance...way off I know. So I will probably be using my "moving one tooth checklist" tomorrow.
What fixed my issue? I'm not sure I took off the throttle body and cleaned the idle air control valve it had sludge all over it I also took of the throttle position sensor and cleaned it up. The throttle body had a lot of gunk where the IAC valve was so I cleaned it up really good put a bottle of Heet in the tank and she fired right up...and stayed that way no surging no stalling. Other than the small timing adjustment I made I did nothing to it...I didn't want to relive the nightmare from the other night. I did notice a small puddle of oil under the rear main seal. I knew there would be something. But I'll take it. So far so good.

 

[drakon543]

so hopefully someone else will chime in as like i mentioned i haven't had to actually do this method im just aware the scanner needs to be more advanced than the basic ones. if i recall the engine also has to be brought up to a certain rpm or something for it to read correctly. the electronic advance is constantly changing based off sensors and such. i know a snap on solus scanner actually has a button to activate this or something.

 

[willxfs]

This link will explain how to set the distributor. I followed it exactly and it works! Check the gear for worn teeth next time you pull the distributor.

http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/distributor.html

I just bought a new scanner to set the cam retard and do the auto bleed brake procedure. The one I bought is the Foxwell Nt510. It reads the cam retard but I haven't tried the brake bleed procedure yet. But I did find the function on the menu. It's not a high end scanner by any stretch but ok for my use while I tinker with my 20 year old rig. Scanner was about 190 from amazon.

 

[redwing4900]

I was finally able to get the engine timed the rpm needs to be between 1000-1200. I changed the coil I’m not sure if that was the culprit at this point. I adjusted the throttle at the body so that it would hold at the correct idle, then loosened the torx screw to bring the idle back down to 700 rpm or so. Now i keep getting an engine misfire code on the scanner, with fuel cap pressure voltage(?) those are the only 2 codes I’m getting. The cap pressure has been with this vehicle for a long time but the misfire keeps reoccurring after I reset it. Does anyone know what mechanical setting the rpm should be ? I read that the computer sets the rpm so maybe it needs the rpm at a certain level to “take over”?

 

[redwing4900]

This link will explain how to set the distributor. I followed it exactly and it works! Check the gear for worn teeth next time you pull the distributor.

http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/distributor.html

I just bought a new scanner to set the cam retard and do the auto bleed brake procedure. The one I bought is the Foxwell Nt510. It reads the cam retard but I haven't tried the brake bleed procedure yet. But I did find the function on the menu. It's not a high end scanner by any stretch but ok for my use while I tinker with my 20 year old rig. Scanner was about 190 from amazon.

Thank you for the link and scanner info. I’m not there yet but if I can get my engine to smooth out I’ll consider the scanner purchase.

 

[redwing4900]

I have a bad rear main seal leak going on right now. Since I’m 0 for 1 with installing these I’m seriously thinking about paying the local garage $675 to drop the trans and change it for me. I used the pvc pipe method and tapped it in with the hammer...and I deeply regret it. It is a Teflon rear main seal that I thought to be of good quality from Felpro. Moving forward can someone link me to a rear main seal install site or a proper way to install this one piece? I thought it looked good going in, I guess not though.

 

[bigfootchiro]

You can use a WiFi OBD tool like you see here and use the DashCommand app with GM add-on pack. You’ll be able to read more PIDs than you know what to do with, all for under $40.

You can’t read timing with a timing light on these motors, only by using a scan tool and reading CMP Retard. Should be between -2 and 2, but closest to 0 is best. When dropping the distributor, the rotor metal tab should point directly at cylinder 1 when dropped, just remember to start on TDC 1 when removing it. Once you have it set correctly, and base timing is good to run, you adjust timing by slightly loosening the distributor hold down bolt and turning counterclockwise to retard (less) timing, and clockwise to advance (more) timing. They are very finicky, and one little movement moves the timing a decent amount.

 

[drakon543]

the rear main is a pain i had my gm buddy do it for me. some of the rear main kits also have a repair sleeve that get put on the crank shaft incase is has a worn spot. honestly i would just pay the money and let them do it and if it still leaks its on them.

 

[redwing4900]

the rear main is a pain i had my gm buddy do it for me. some of the rear main kits also have a repair sleeve that get put on the crank shaft incase is has a worn spot. honestly i would just pay the money and let them do it and if it still leaks its on them.

That was exactly my thought, money well spent. At first...
One other problem that was found was the spider injectors 1and6 weren’t injecting. That was why I was getting the misfire code. I wanted the garage to do all of it but they wanted $2100 for The seal change and the spider injection installed, I couldn’t see spending that much so I paid my $300 diagnostic fee and she’s in my driveway now spider ordered. Should be here Monday then I can hear what 8 cylinders firing sounds like(!). Good spark good fuel pressure just no fuel getting to 1 and 6. Wow
I see how the repair bills get out of control especially if you don’t do them yourself!
I’m tempted to do this rear main seal myself speaking of DIY, call me a glutton, but the mechanic said that the seal housing gets warped. Has anyone experienced this? Is it like the timing chain cover that gets warped and needs to be changed whenever you remove it? I know I started with money well spent but I’m ending up somewhere else. I have to wait for the spider anyway until Monday so I have time to do the research. Has anyone else done this one piece rear main seal change successfully? I want to raise my success rate to .500
I have noticed that the seal and housing are $75 at Summit Racing, that’s what peaked my interest.