Its like Christmas in..err...March? Thanks Norcal SS

[WHITEOUT]

Very nice lookin bro!! N bet it rides alot better now.
My ride is making a clunk/pop noise when I go over bumps. But only angled bumps like driveways and dips were the truck goes at angles. Weird really, and only thing I and others, have been able to narrow it down to since this is ONLY when it makes a noise, and I just re-did my front end. Is the rear lower trailing arms- RLTA.
Since the panhard bar is pulled over from being lowered, thus pulling over axle, and in turn pulling EVERYTHING else, ie. shocks, trailings arms-upper n lower over towards passenger side. My RLTA seem to be really pinching, especially since relocating brackets were installed, making a bad popping/clunking noise when going down or up angled bumps only. So I am pretty sure that's my fix, and in a few weeks will find out when I get my adjustable panhard and RLTA bars.
I will post some pics and stuff when I recieve my adjustable panhard bar and RLTA bars. I purchased my parts made for 4 link setups. Alot of places sell em, SuicideDoors.com, GravityWerx, ect.. or other sites. I've found sites that sell all individual parts, everything, whole bars, whatever. I'm not a big fan of "super pivots" or heims, johnny joints, they are GREAT don't get me wrong, just not for what I need personally. But everything can be purchased to make what you need, cheaper. Same exact thing, just different adjusting method. Mine won't be "on car" adjustable, but I'm static dropped so, once set, its all good. But if you wanted to make one yourself, easy to purchase and make your own!!! Once you figure out your lengths, bushing size, it's pretty simple. again, once I get my setup, I will do a write up about it my setup.
But again, Spohns adjustable panhard bar is nice, but expensive IMO, for what it is. Tubing, bushings, rt n lft threaded bungs and rt n lft threaded adjustment bolt(which can be purchased seperately to make own)
Make your own cheaper, and again, I will do a write up with pics when I get my bars next week or so, hope this helps alittle: http://qualityairride.com/4-link-parts/4-link-bars/4-link-round-adj-bar-poly-bushings
I just hate spending money on something I can make myself or get fabricated for cheaper! And that's what makes sites like this GREAT!

 

[bottomline2000]

this is a before and after

what size tires were you running in this pic? and any rubbing issues?

 

[J-dub]

Make sure to do a write-up man! I'm interested in doing those 4-link bars.

 

[Nickleahy23]

Very nice lookin bro!! N bet it rides alot better now.
My ride is making a clunk/pop noise when I go over bumps. But only angled bumps like driveways and dips were the truck goes at angles. Weird really, and only thing I and others, have been able to narrow it down to since this is ONLY when it makes a noise, and I just re-did my front end. Is the rear lower trailing arms- RLTA.
Since the panhard bar is pulled over from being lowered, thus pulling over axle, and in turn pulling EVERYTHING else, ie. shocks, trailings arms-upper n lower over towards passenger side. My RLTA seem to be really pinching, especially since relocating brackets were installed, making a bad popping/clunking noise when going down or up angled bumps only. So I am pretty sure that's my fix, and in a few weeks will find out when I get my adjustable panhard and RLTA bars.
I will post some pics and stuff when I recieve my adjustable panhard bar and RLTA bars. I purchased my parts made for 4 link setups. Alot of places sell em, SuicideDoors.com, GravityWerx, ect.. or other sites. I've found sites that sell all individual parts, everything, whole bars, whatever. I'm not a big fan of "super pivots" or heims, johnny joints, they are GREAT don't get me wrong, just not for what I need personally. But everything can be purchased to make what you need, cheaper. Same exact thing, just different adjusting method. Mine won't be "on car" adjustable, but I'm static dropped so, once set, its all good. But if you wanted to make one yourself, easy to purchase and make your own!!! Once you figure out your lengths, bushing size, it's pretty simple. again, once I get my setup, I will do a write up about it my setup.
But again, Spohns adjustable panhard bar is nice, but expensive IMO, for what it is. Tubing, bushings, rt n lft threaded bungs and rt n lft threaded adjustment bolt(which can be purchased seperately to make own)
Make your own cheaper, and again, I will do a write up with pics when I get my bars next week or so, hope this helps alittle: http://qualityairride.com/4-link-parts/4-link-bars/4-link-round-adj-bar-poly-bushings
I just hate spending money on something I can make myself or get fabricated for cheaper! And that's what makes sites like this GREAT!

Forgot you posted this..i just put the same link in another thread..Im just gonna order one from them I think..it was like $60 shipped to my door. What length bar and width bushings do we need? I know Tony said it needs to be about .5-.75 longer then stock to center it..

 

[Preludepearl417]

WHITEOUT.......Wouldn't NORCAL SS's Spohn rear kit solve all of this in one kit? I know your trying to save money but if you had 590 to drop on this kit would you?

Is it just the rear end that's giving you problems after the drop?

 

[NORCAL SS]

all you really need is the panhard bar kit since your running the trailing arm relocators.

 

[WHITEOUT]

Ya, Norcal SS- Spohn adjustable panhard n rear arm kit, is exactly what I think I need. I just can't justify the 590 you said it cost, for what it is!! just me, and letting others know that there is a cheaper way to do it.
I personally can not justify $590 for bushings(even super pivots!!) tubing/metal, threads, bungs, weld and powder coating!!! Thats why I posted up about a cheaper way.
Norcal SS is right. All you REALLY need is the panhard bar. Even tho I know my rear lower trailing arms, are causing my "popping/clunking" noise. If I were to just get a panhard bar- $50, it should reposition everything back to center.

I personally would rather buy a adjustable panhard bar then the rear hardware kit!! IMO it would do more for your "correct" suspension angled the just relocating rear LTA to parallel. Again, this is just what I"M learning about my suspension on 2001 Tahoe, 3/5 drop.

I will diffenently be doing a write up about them, more thuroughly and everything.

As far as panhard bar goes. Mine measure 33 1/2" long Center to Center, 2" wide bushings. I personally just ordered mine to stock length, and can then push out, to get correct center.

RLTA mine measered. 22" long Center to Center, 2 1/2" wide bushings. But you must know, you can't "adjust" Lower traling arms without getting Upper trailing arms!!! Otherwise you would end up kicking axle a wrong angle!! Hope people understand what I mean, and again will write more about it when I get my bars.

Sorry Nick if I hijacked your thread. Was just trying to help ya, n not get off topic.

 

[J-dub]

So, I should order an adjustable 33.5" for the "panhard". And two 22" non-adjustable bars for my RLTA.

Correct?

 

[WHITEOUT]

I ordered ALL adjustable. What I'm saying about regarding RLTA is, you can't adjust, or shouldn't adjust, without getting adjustable UPPER Traling arms. Ya know? You don't wanna adjust lower TAs without adjusting Upper TAs! Again, I ordered adjustable RLTA, but won't adjust them unless or until I figure out a cheaper solution to Spohns already made $200 arms!! Or get Spohns. By adjusting trailing arms, you will reposition axle to center(front to back). Get it? Hope it helps

 

[J-dub]

So with a relocation kit, I should be good without the adjustable RLTA?

Basically what I'm debating running is:
1. Adjustable bar for a Panhard bar
2. Hardware relocation kit
3. NON adjustable bars for RLTAs

I know with a relocation kit I don't really need the RLTA's replaced, but I think they will look way better that the stock crap hanging under my frame.