Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
For the ac, check the ac belt AND ac tensioner. It tends to seize up from sitting. Happened to mine, and from seizing up it broke the belt.
jarydM’s 2005 Tahoe Build/Rebuild
- Thread starter jarydM
- Start date
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belt was still spinning, I think it might be the clutch on the compressor.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
That sux. I'd rather it be the belt or tensioner!
Update:
got to spend two days this week working in the car. As the virus picks up in my area my free days from work are gonna become less and less..
anyways, got a few things done. Installed the rear wheel spacers
peeled the stickers off the rear window, and took the pin striping off the sides.
prepped the calipers and painted them for the NNBS brake upgrade
then put all new rotors on the front, and put the new (to me) calipers on.
Didn’t take anymore pictures, but also put bigger torsion keys on to level the front, and added the wheel spacers to the front as well. Stance is much improved.
While trying to prep brakes after install the pedal Unexpected went to the floor and there was a sound like air. The pedal kept going to the floor, but would eventually push back. I thought maybe i had some air in the system, and decided to work on the AC.
replaced the orafice port between the high and low pressure lines, vacuumed the system out, and then repressurized. Ac is colder now, but I’m still having an issue with the actuators not giving me cold air on passenger side and rear. I’ve replaced the front one once before, and tried to replace the rear. The rear one actually broke the door off, and had it fall down into the system, so I’m not real sure how I’m going to fix that.
As I got out of the car, I noticed a dripping puddle behind the drivers side rear door, and at first thought it must be condensation off the ac units, but it was on the wrong side. Reached down... brake fluid. Looks like the line burst on the drivers side while trying to repressurize the system. I guess the stainless steel lines just got moved up from a “later” upgrade to a “now” upgrade
got to spend two days this week working in the car. As the virus picks up in my area my free days from work are gonna become less and less..
anyways, got a few things done. Installed the rear wheel spacers
peeled the stickers off the rear window, and took the pin striping off the sides.prepped the calipers and painted them for the NNBS brake upgrade
then put all new rotors on the front, and put the new (to me) calipers on. Didn’t take anymore pictures, but also put bigger torsion keys on to level the front, and added the wheel spacers to the front as well. Stance is much improved. While trying to prep brakes after install the pedal Unexpected went to the floor and there was a sound like air. The pedal kept going to the floor, but would eventually push back. I thought maybe i had some air in the system, and decided to work on the AC.
replaced the orafice port between the high and low pressure lines, vacuumed the system out, and then repressurized. Ac is colder now, but I’m still having an issue with the actuators not giving me cold air on passenger side and rear. I’ve replaced the front one once before, and tried to replace the rear. The rear one actually broke the door off, and had it fall down into the system, so I’m not real sure how I’m going to fix that.
As I got out of the car, I noticed a dripping puddle behind the drivers side rear door, and at first thought it must be condensation off the ac units, but it was on the wrong side. Reached down... brake fluid. Looks like the line burst on the drivers side while trying to repressurize the system. I guess the stainless steel lines just got moved up from a “later” upgrade to a “now” upgrade
Hopefully the master didn’t get damaged when the pedal went to the floor. You should put a piece of 2x 4 under it if you’re gonna bleed them using the pedal method to keep that from happening.
I know the brakes and bleeding on these trucks are a little different than some other trucks/cars, but why would it have damaged the master cylinder?
there’s been a leak on this truck at the brake booster for years now, but fluid has never run low, so hopefully all will remain well.
On our trucks, if the pedal goes all the way to the floor it damages the seals on the MC. Everybody says to either be super careful or better yet put a piece of wood on the floor to keep the pedal from going to the floor when bleeding using the pedal. I use a Motive pressure bleeder so I haven’t had a problem. If you can’t get the brakes bled afterward you’ll know where to look, unfortunately.
adventurenali92
Full Access Member
Apparently the seal between the master cylinder and the hydro boost unit is a common leak point on the GMT800s. I replaced both mine a couple years because it was leaking brake fluid like crazy and and it was splattering all over the inside of my drivers side wheel well. Couldn’t tell if it was leaking from the hydro boost side of the seal or the master cylinder side of the seal. So I said screw it let’s replace both cuz I don’t want to have to tear this apart again. Lol.
I might do that anyways, everything in the drivers side wheel well is covered in brake fluid.
That’s a bummer, it might’ve blown then. I did the bleed with the car off until I got some pedal resistance, but when I started it, it went all the way down. I think it may have blown before that even. But there wasn’t any new fluid leaking near the firewall or engine bay, just a huge puddle at the back door drivers side. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
not that replacing lines will be a comparative cake walk
