Key Fob Reset question

[jimmycaps]

The luxury option. Thanks for any help that you can give.

 

[SunlitComet]

Still working in it as there are alot if info I am trying to piece together. In the meantime are your #4 and #13 fuses intact in the dash and do your power seats works with out fault?

 

[jimmycaps]

Yes. I just double checked those fuses. They are both intact. The power seats work fine also.

The only other electrical problem that I have in addition to the key fob is the preset station numbers on the dash are out. 4/6 are out, but that has been a gradual thing and I think it is unrealted.

 

[SunlitComet]

I amy have had the wrong programming info(base option). I did not see this posted elsewhere but it is for the luxury option. Perhahaps somewhere along the way one of us missed something:

Have each of the transmitters that you intend to program ready. This vehicle will allow you to program a maximum of four transmitters programmed at one time.

When reprogramming the remote control door lock receiver, All transmitters must be programmed at this time in order for the transmitters to operate the vehicle. Transmitters not programed at this time will not work and the procedure will have to be redone with all the transmitters.

1. Turn the ignition to the RUN position, then back to the OFF position. This will disarm the theft-deterrent system.
2. Remove the RADIO fuse (Fuse 17).
3. Turn the ignition from the OFF position to the RUN position three times quickly, within five seconds . The vehicle will respond by locking the doors, unlocking the driver's doors and releasing the tailgate or panel doors. The transmitter is now ready to match to the vehicle.
4. Press and hold the LOCK (1) and UNLOCK (2) buttons on the first transmitter for 15 seconds . The vehicle will respond as in step 3.
5. Repeat step 4 for the remaining transmitters.
6. Replace the RADIO fuse.
7. Check that all transmitters work by pressing their buttons.

And maybe re synch again. Let me know.

 

[jimmycaps]

Already did this. It only works if I leave the key in the run position. It then allows me to synch the key fob. But, when you turn it to off, it works maybe once and then doesn't work any more. It also doesn't work if you open the door.

 

[SunlitComet]

Sorry but so far I can only preclude that if the power sources are there then something is wrong with the reciever or body control module but I will looking into the bcm next.

---------- Post added at 03:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:24 PM ----------

Perform this and let me know the results please:

Entry Into Diagnostics


In the diagnostic mode, the BCM displays any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) that are stored in memory. The DTCs are displayed as flash codes through the security LED indicator lamp on the console. During normal operation, if the BCM detects a fault in a monitored system, there is no flash code to indicate to the customer that a fault has occurred. However, the driver may detect a system malfunction. System faults are stored by the BCM as CURRENT or HISTORY DTCs. A current DTC means that a fault was present when the diagnostic mode was entered. A history DTC indicates that the following conditions occurred:

* A fault occurred sometime after the BCM was installed in the vehicle.
* A fault occurred since the last time the DTCs were cleared.
* The fault may not be currently present.

If a current DTC is stored, the associated history DTC will always be stored.

When working on systems that are controlled by the BCM, the technician should always refer to this section and check for DTCs.

Enter diagnostics by performing the following steps:

* Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position in order to disarm the universal theft deterrent system, if equipped.
* Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
* Remove the RADIO fuse 17 from the instrument panel fuse block.
* Turn the ignition switch to the ACC position. This action will enter the program mode. Two audible warning tones will occur for mode verification.
* Within 5 seconds , turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. Immediately (within one second ) turn the ignition switch back to the ACC position. This action will enter the diagnostic mode. Three audible warning tones will occur for mode verification.

The BCM will begin to flash DTCs 4 seconds after entering the diagnostic mode. Each flash of the security LED indicator lamp on the console represents a number. For example, one flash followed by two quick flashes represents a code 12. Each code is displayed 3 times before the next code is displayed. Stored DTCs are displayed in numerical order. Once the last code is displayed, the list begins over again with the first code. The display continues until the diagnostic mode is exited.

While in the diagnostic mode, a transition of certain BCM inputs from active to inactive, or vice versa, will cause the BCM to actively respond. For example, if a door lock switch is depressed the BCM will perform the following actions:

1. Flash the FASTEN SEATBELT indicator.
2. Sound a single audible warning tone.

The BCM will also respond in the same way if the rear compartment lid or a door is opened or closed. This is due to the transition at the door jamb switch or the rear compartment lid ajar indication switch input. In all cases, the BCM will also attempt to perform the operation normally performed by the switch transition.

The BCM will also respond to a change at either the shock sensor tamper input or the shock sensor shock input. The tamper input is activated by minor blows to the vehicle. The shock input is activated by heavy blows to the vehicle, or by tapping on the exposed shock sensor. In the diagnostic mode, if either the tamper input or the shock input becomes active the following actions will occur:

* The BCM will activate the horn relay.
* The horn relay will cause the horns to chirp.
* The BCM will sound an audible warning tone.

Any transition at the interior lamps command input while in the diagnostic mode will cause the BCM to perform the following actions:

* Flash the FASTEN SEATBELT indicator lamp.
* Sound an audible warning tone.
* Flash the courtesy lamps.

The above actions can be caused by such transitions as switching the interior lamps switch to the ON or OFF position.

 

[jimmycaps]

I can't get it to enter diagnostics mode.

I'm getting really frustrated and I'm going to break down and take it to a mechanic.

 

[SunlitComet]

I know it is fustrating but the timing of key movemonts can be tricky. Try again if after several attempts or try longer if you have the time. With no success run to the dealer. They will have the proper equipment and the same data I have with the code descriptions. My assumption is some how the circuit that retains data with truck is broken. The BCM would have told me more including any specific transmitter errors it sees. Any other unusual things related to interion lighting features, retained accesorry power features or seatbelt electronics?

 

[jimmycaps]

No other issues going on with the Tahoe in regards to seatbelts or other indicators. Absolutely nothing.

I am new to the city I live in now, but I took it to a reputable automotive electrical repair company that is highly recommended by nearly everyone. I actually was happy that they called me back after a couple of hours and said that they are going in circles with this so far. They actually are going to have to call the GM tech line to get a better handle of the situation. I'm not getting charged for all of this time, but essentially he said he ruled out all of the straight-forward and moderately complicated things and had no luck. I'll let you know when I know more.

 

[jimmycaps]

Problem Solved

So, as I mentioned, this all started when my air conditioner was fixed.

Well, I took it to these repair guys and they had a hell of a time reprogramming just like I did. They went round and round before they had to call the GM technician line. Once they did, they eventually found out that the key fob receiver's antenna wire was pinched between the dash and the front of the vehicle. That was why I had the problems that I did and couldn't reprogram it.

It doesn't make total sense to me as to why the key fobs would work when the vehicle was on but not when it was off if it was due simply to the antenna wire being pinched unless it had the power supply pinched with it.

Nonetheless, the total cost was $168. But, the best news is that the a/c repair place is picking up the cost as they took responsibility.

So, in the end, I wasted a lot of my own time trying to save myself from an expensive repair bill that I ultimately didn't have to pay anyway. Go figure.