Knee deep in first transmission rebuild, opinions welcomed.

[osirus5164]

So, I'm putting everything back together and the sub assemblies are pretty close. I was curious what everyone's opinion was on case savers vs anti clunk spring. Yes no meh?

Second, is load release springs. They're on the table but I would need to order new springs. Crusted in clutch material.

Another curiosity, front pump. So I see that the 073 casting is the same through years aside from the o ring vs wedge seal. My dude has damage to the pump body side but the stator inside is pretty decent. There's lots of options available for the body but they are all boring style. Does that machining for the o ring make it unusable in wedge seal application? I am going to be calling a guy who was recommended as far as surfacing my old one but I'm still curious just in case. Is there anything that I would have to take into consideration with the loss of material or is it negeglable and rebuild as normal? Thanks guys!


Just for kicks, I'll tag @NickTransmissions . Maybe you'll see this while you're having a cup of coffee in the morning and I'll be privileged with some of that valuable insight that I've used in this project thus far.

 

[NickTransmissions]

So, I'm putting everything back together and the sub assemblies are pretty close. I was curious what everyone's opinion was on case savers vs anti clunk spring. Yes no meh?

Second, is load release springs. They're on the table but I would need to order new springs. Crusted in clutch material.

Another curiosity, front pump. So I see that the 073 casting is the same through years aside from the o ring vs wedge seal. My dude has damage to the pump body side but the stator inside is pretty decent. There's lots of options available for the body but they are all boring style. Does that machining for the o ring make it unusable in wedge seal application? I am going to be calling a guy who was recommended as far as surfacing my old one but I'm still curious just in case. Is there anything that I would have to take into consideration with the loss of material or is it negeglable and rebuild as normal? Thanks guys!


Just for kicks, I'll tag @NickTransmissions . Maybe you'll see this while you're having a cup of coffee in the morning and I'll be privileged with some of that valuable insight that I've used in this project thus far.

Pump body casting ".....073" never changed from 1996-2013 outside of the o-ring vs wedge seal, starting in 2004 (wedge seal) - don't mix/match wedge seal cases and o-ring pumps.

Those doing the machine/resurfacing work will know what to do. Have the pre-existing pump resurfaced/re-cut or purchase an equivalent already machined to new condition and check clearances before you assemble it.

Use the anti-clunk spring unless you're racing.

 

[mountie]

Nick... For a year, I was honored to work for the famed, Art Carr " Performance Transmissions ", in Huntington Beach, Ca.
I R&R'd trannys & installed coolers. I knew nothing about transmissions, but being around his artists, was quite an experience.
He built me a transmission & converter for my '88 GMC truck ( could handle 650 HP / 700R4 ) .. Since, my transmission failed 6 times before I met him..... He is famous for his STOUT, 2004R builds.

 

[osirus5164]

@NickTransmissions , thanks! I am also leaning towards not reinstalling the load release springs. It's a stock 08 Tahoe (nicknamed lovingly, the MaHoe) that has yet to see any towing and Mrs lead foot may jockey for position on the freeway but that's about it. Flip side, better safe than sorry?

Another hing thing I was curious about is the 3-4 pressure plate. The old one is pretty smoked and when I hold a straight edge to it in the light it seems a little off. It's got legs on it, most options I see online are flat
For reference I'm comparing part numbers:

74141ae
74141b

Was this a change that was made at some point or are these two completely different fellas?

 

[osirus5164]

Also, I built the stack last night just to see and I had .110 clearance. Gonna go back and see if I goofed somewhere.

Edit: stack is alto power pack. Asked for some .106 steels but parts guy sent .076 steels. Should still be mix and matchable?

 

[NickTransmissions]

@NickTransmissions , thanks! I am also leaning towards not reinstalling the load release springs. It's a stock 08 Tahoe (nicknamed lovingly, the MaHoe) that has yet to see any towing and Mrs lead foot may jockey for position on the freeway but that's about it. Flip side, better safe than sorry?

Another thing thing I was curious about is the 3-4 pressure plate. The old one is pretty smoked and when I hold a straight edge to it in the light it seems a little off. It's got legs on it, most options I see online are flat
For reference I'm comparing part numbers:

74141ae
74141b

Was this a change that was made at some point or are these two completely different fellas?

Not sure as I never use part numbers; I simply buy the pressure and backing plate set from my hard part supplier for either the 4L60E or 4L65E, depending on what clutch set I'm using...You can buy the 4L65E clutch pressure and backing plate set plus 7 high energy 3-4 friction plate and 6 lindered (heat coated) flat steel plates. If you run your clearance down to below .045, reuse the load release springs but if not, you can leave them out.

 

[osirus5164]

Not sure as I never use part numbers; I simply buy the pressure and backing plate set from my hard part supplier for either the 4L60E or 4L65E, depending on what clutch set I'm using...You can buy the 4L65E clutch pressure and backing plate set plus 7 high energy 3-4 friction plate and 6 lindered (heat coated) flat steel plates. If you run your clearance down to below .045, reuse the load release springs but if not, you can leave them out.

Do the plates always have little legs on them?