Left (Drivers side) motor mount removal question

[opfor2]

So according to the 2011 GM service Manual, Volume 3, page 9-966 the procedure is as follows:

a Remove the air cleaner outlet duct

b if 4x4 remove front four-wheel drive axle

c remove generator bracket

Why in god's name do I have to remove the generator bracket??

 

[Tonyv__]

So according to the 2011 GM service Manual, Volume 3, page 9-966 the procedure is as follows:

a Remove the air cleaner outlet duct

b if 4x4 remove front four-wheel drive axle

c remove generator bracket

Why in god's name do I have to remove the generator bracket??

I don’t remember but my 2011 sierra was 2wd and I had a hell of a time getting that mount out even with no 4x4 stuff in the way.

So removing a bunch of stuff to make the job easier will likely be necessary.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@opfor2 On the drive side I just removed the steering half shaft between the firewall and steering rack and the fender liner, undo the lower motor mount bolts on both sides of the motor so that when you jack the motor up it can lift up freely and give you the most amount of working space

 

[dkad260]

@opfor2 On the drive side I just removed the steering half shaft between the firewall and steering rack and the fender liner, undo the lower motor mount bolts on both sides of the motor so that when you jack the motor up it can lift up freely and give you the most amount of working space

Same.

I would secure the steering wheel with a bungee cord around the brake pedal to keep it from turning and damaging the clock spring.

If pass side is new, I would also loosen those motor mount bolts that entrer the frame to ease titling of the motor and not stressing the mount.

If you have the load leveling suspension, it helps to remove the front sensor and lay it aside.

The motor mounts are a tight fit, the bolts that go into the block take some creativity with short extensions. I used a 1/4" ratchet to reinstall the bolts iirc, then a 3/8 to fully tighten...discovered a few new swear words also.

I also bent the heat shield a little to gain working room then bent it back afterwards.

If you haven't changed the pass side, you should put it on your short list if the LH side is bad. Once I did, the vibrations at idle went away since it torques to that side under load.

 

[opfor2]

Same.

I would secure the steering wheel with a bungee cord around the brake pedal to keep it from turning and damaging the clock spring.

If pass side is new, I would also loosen those motor mount bolts that entrer the frame to ease titling of the motor and not stressing the mount.

If you have the load leveling suspension, it helps to remove the front sensor and lay it aside.

The motor mounts are a tight fit, the bolts that go into the block take some creativity with short extensions. I used a 1/4" ratchet to reinstall the bolts iirc, then a 3/8 to fully tighten...discovered a few new swear words also.

I also bent the heat shield a little to gain working room then bent it back afterwards.

If you haven't changed the pass side, you should put it on your short list if the LH side is bad. Once I did, the vibrations at idle went away since it torques to that side under load.

I plan on doing both for I already have the parts its just finding the time to do it. The passenger side seems challenging too for the service manual says to remove the AC compressor bracket>

 

[dkad260]

The passenger side seems challenging too for the service manual says to remove the AC compressor bracket>

I didn't remove the AC bracket, but I did remove the starter and pulled the mount out that way. Just be darned sure you remove the NEG battery cable first. I also believe I separated the mount to get it back in as the old collapsed mount was short enough to fit between the frame....so .maybe removing the bracket is easier....not sure.

Removing the ride height sensor on both sides gave me room to work.

Just be mindful of where you lift the engine, I used a 2x4 and lifted along the edge of the oil pan, keeping an eye on how close the intake comes to the cowling...but it works and uses about all of that vertical movement allowed.

I don't remember which length extensions were best, but I have a few short Kobalt extensions I picked up from Lowe's that helped. It was getting the correct length to make some of the bolts easier to R&R but that's probably overthinking it.

Once I broke them loose, the 1/4" drive M12 ratchet worked to drive them out easier.

 

[Geotrash]

+1, no need to remove the A/C bracket. Removing the right front wheel and the fender liner makes it much easier as well. I didn't remove the starter either.