Let's sift through every square inch of a 2013 Tahoe PPV

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89Suburban

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Weather permitting, I will be back at Byron for night racing on Friday 7/28.

Does anybody want to sell me the trim piece for the drivers side rear window? The L-shaped one at the lower rear corner of the window.

I broke mine hauling lumber sticking out the window through the bars.

I need them for both sides as well.
 
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Caddylack

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Time to refresh the front end.

Any suggestions? I need UCAs, lower ball joints, and hubs.

I have some play in the steering but not sure where it’s coming from.
 

Marky Dissod

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If you want to upgrade past OE, Cognito and Kryptonite are the two brand names that spring to mind.
 

iamdub

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Time to refresh the front end.

Any suggestions? I need UCAs, lower ball joints, and hubs.

I have some play in the steering but not sure where it’s coming from.

IMO, you can't beat what it left the factory with. These are branded "GM Genuine" or "AC Delco OE". AC Delco "Gold" (formerly "Professional") and AC Delco "Silver" (formerly "Advantage") are aftermarket. Gold/Professional is the better of the aftermarket, but still likely won't last as long. For hubs, I suggest Timken. Timken is or was the OEM supplier of hub assemblies for GM. You might find a Timken hub in an AC Delco or GM Genuine box, but pay a lot more for it than if it was in a Timken box. You don't need to replace the LCA bushings? I've always just replaced the whole arm. You get new bushings and you don't have to bother with pressing out and in the ball joints. Same idea for the UCAs.
 
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Caddylack

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IMO, you can't beat what it left the factory with. These are branded "GM Genuine" or "AC Delco OE". AC Delco "Gold" (formerly "Professional") and AC Delco "Silver" (formerly "Advantage") are aftermarket. Gold/Professional is the better of the aftermarket, but still likely won't last as long. For hubs, I suggest Timken. Timken is or was the OEM supplier of hub assemblies for GM. You might find a Timken hub in an AC Delco or GM Genuine box, but pay a lot more for it than if it was in a Timken box. You don't need to replace the LCA bushings? I've always just replaced the whole arm. You get new bushings and you don't have to bother with pressing out and in the ball joints. Same idea for the UCAs.
Well, at first glance, the lower bushings looked okay. The “front end kits” for these cars don’t include any lower stuff. It’s actually possible my lowers have already been replaced (cactus).

Does the PPV use a different LCA, or am I misremembering? I feel like there were both aluminum and steel lowers.

Timken seems like the right choice for hubs, but they do make two different part numbers at different price levels.

On uppers: Why not go beefier? The problem solver arms are thicker, and same with TTX.
 
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Caddylack

Caddylack

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IMO, you can't beat what it left the factory with. These are branded "GM Genuine" or "AC Delco OE". AC Delco "Gold" (formerly "Professional") and AC Delco "Silver" (formerly "Advantage") are aftermarket. Gold/Professional is the better of the aftermarket, but still likely won't last as long. For hubs, I suggest Timken. Timken is or was the OEM supplier of hub assemblies for GM. You might find a Timken hub in an AC Delco or GM Genuine box, but pay a lot more for it than if it was in a Timken box. You don't need to replace the LCA bushings? I've always just replaced the whole arm. You get new bushings and you don't have to bother with pressing out and in the ball joints. Same idea for the UCAs.

Well, at first glance, the lower bushings looked okay. The “front end kits” for these cars don’t include any lower stuff. It’s actually possible my lowers have already been replaced (cactus).

Does the PPV use a different LCA, or am I misremembering? I feel like there were both aluminum and steel lowers.

Timken seems like the right choice for hubs, but they do make two different part numbers at different price levels.

On uppers: Why not go beefier? The problem solver arms are thicker, and same with TTX.
Oh, I wanted to mention…

I noticed my RWD PPV appears to have 4x4 hubs in the front. Rock Auto listings make me think the PPVs were all like this. Why?
 

kbuskill

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I thought 4WD hubs could not run safely without the stub shaft installed?
This was true on many of the older 4wd hubs, like the ones used on 1st Gen S-10s, however the newer trucks use a roll formed bearing which means that the bearing's tension is pre-loaded at the time of manufacturing so it doesn't require an axle or stub shaft to hold it together.

This is from one of the manufacturers websites :
  • Increased Durability: Designed with roll forming to lock internal components for a set preload right out of the box; Increased assembly stiffness reduces vibration and improves part life
 

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