Leveling & Tire Question

[eand28]

Bought a set of 20x10 (-25mm offset) Weld Dunes a few months ago. Going to do a 2-2.5" level in the front with z71 springs and 1" or 1.5" coil spring spacers. I can't decide on tires to save my life. The tires in the pic are 305/50's and they came with the wheels. They are long gone now. I do not want to trim much if at all so I've been looking at 275/55, 285/50, and 285/55's. Any suggestions?

 

[richs1]

Bought a set of 20x10 (-25mm offset) Weld Dunes a few months ago. Going to do a 2-2.5" level in the front with z71 springs and 1" or 1.5" coil spring spacers. I can't decide on tires to save my life. The tires in the pic are 305/50's and they came with the wheels. They are long gone now. I do not want to trim much if at all so I've been looking at 275/55, 285/50, and 285/55's. Any suggestions?

View attachment 203215

I have an 04 Z71, I installed aftermarket keys and 1.5 inch spacers in the rear. Started with Nitto ridge grapplers 295/55-20 which are 32.76 tall and 12.17 wide. They rubbed on heavy articulation in the rear. Cracked the inner fender around the top shock mount. I am running repo wheels that have the stock offset, so that contributed to it I’m sure. I sent those back and I am running 33x11.50-20 ridge grapplers. Still get a little rub on steep drives, but nothing I can’t live with. One thing you need to do is turn the top shock bolt around so that the threads are facing the gas tank. That way if you do rub, you don’t destroy a tire.
Good luck, hope that helps some.

 

[Chubbs]

You get into problems when trying to lift a GM with torsion bar keys. You need to get a complete suspension kit with a dropped subframe if you want 33" tires or more.

The angles of the axles and steering linkage get all F'd up, then the upper CA is pulled down onto the 'droop stop' as they call it. The keys are good for leveling with the stock rear for dependability and intended service life of OEM components.

Level with the rear and 275 is about the best you can get with TB keys before you compromise the entire front end. That's my experience on it; TB keys just don't play well with GM factory engineering.

I just noticed that your truck sits very level as it is. Are the OEM tb keys turned all the way up? Any higher in the front and its SoCal. Will you post pics of the tie rods and upper control arms in front? Would be good to know what you have going on under there.

 

[eand28]

You get into problems when trying to lift a GM with torsion bar keys. You need to get a complete suspension kit with a dropped subframe if you want 33" tires or more.

The angles of the axles and steering linkage get all F'd up, then the upper CA is pulled down onto the 'droop stop' as they call it. The keys are good for leveling with the stock rear for dependability and intended service life of OEM components.

Level with the rear and 275 is about the best you can get with TB keys before you compromise the entire front end. That's my experience on it; TB keys just don't play well with GM factory engineering.

I just noticed that your truck sits very level as it is. Are the OEM tb keys turned all the way up? Any higher in the front and its SoCal. Will you post pics of the tie rods and upper control arms in front? Would be good to know what you have going on under there.

It's stock as far as I know. I've never touched the keys. I just want to run these 20x10's without having to hack the shit out of the fender liner and bumper

Got some fender measurements this morning. First two are driver and passenger front and the bottom two are passenger rear and driver rear. My driveway is on an angle and it slopes off to the grass so that's why the one side is lower






I have noticed it sits lower than most nbs tahoes and burbs so idk what the po did

 

[eand28]

Here's the suspension pics. Don't mind the rusty frame. Haven't had time to sand and coat it






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk