Lights dimming with subs!

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Lowho97

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Go buy a 2.2 or better Digital Capacitor from Fry's Electronics. They cost about $50 & it will help your drain on the lights....
 

stevek

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The HID relay is connected directly to the +ve terminal on the battery?

Take them off, add on a distribution block. Hook them up to the distribution block along with a 4 gauge wire to go to the amp.


Go buy a 2.2 or better Digital Capacitor from Fry's Electronics. They cost about $50 & it will help your drain on the lights....

No. That was the worst idea in this whole thread.
 
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Take them off, add on a distribution block. Hook them up to the distribution block along with a 4 gauge wire to go to the amp.




No. That was the worst idea in this whole thread.

Alright i'll do that

And there is no way i'm gonna get a capacitor, it's a total waste of money!
 

felixgun

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Alright i'll do that

And there is no way i'm gonna get a capacitor, it's a total waste of money!

Why is it a waste of money? Seems like an easier fix then a distribution block just to do 0 or 4 guage to 8 guage........ I personally had this lighting issue in my nbs and got a 1 farad cap and all of my light dimming issues went away...
 
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Why is it a waste of money? Seems like an easier fix then a distribution block just to do 0 or 4 guage to 8 guage........ I personally had this lighting issue in my nbs and got a 1 farad cap and all of my light dimming issues went away...

I personally have no hands on experience with caps (my bro had a Rockforf cap that cost $200 about 4 years ago and the lights still dimmed with just 700w RMS) but all over online most people recommend against them and prefer just getting a different battery or an ** alternator.
 

felixgun

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I personally have no hands on experience with caps (my bro had a Rockforf cap that cost $200 about 4 years ago and the lights still dimmed with just 700w RMS) but all over online most people recommend against them and prefer just getting a different battery or an ** alternator.

Oh ok.. I just wanted more insight on these caps. When I had 3 12's in my nbs, I had this light dimming issue and after hooking up a Stinger 1 Farad cap, it no longer happened. And yes I agree, putting a different (yellowtop optima) battery or another alternator are both definitely better then getting a cap, but the cost difference in either of those versus getting a less then 100$ cap to fix the same issue seems more feasible and logical. Just my 2 cents... I could be dead wrong... I've read forum posts where the "Big 3" is compared to getting a cap and to def do the Big 3 if you are going to choose ONE. I say if it's really an issue, then do Big 3 first then the cap if it's still an issue (which by then I don't think it will be). Big 3 is def more work then hooking up a 1 farad cap though...
 
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Oh ok.. I just wanted more insight on these caps. When I had 3 12's in my nbs, I had this light dimming issue and after hooking up a Stinger 1 Farad cap, it no longer happened. And yes I agree, putting a different (yellowtop optima) battery or another alternator are both definitely better then getting a cap, but the cost difference in either of those versus getting a less then 100$ cap to fix the same issue seems more feasible and logical. Just my 2 cents... I could be dead wrong... I've read forum posts where the "Big 3" is compared to getting a cap. I say if it's really an issue, then do both. Big 3 is def more work then hooking up a 1 farad cap IMO.

Ok i'm gonna try it and hopefully it works, but I may try the big 3 first since it's like a free route through some car audio installers I know that have wire sitting around.
 

cwh

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You're on the right track upgrading the big 3. You'll find that the chasis to engine bond is not a very large conductor. This is where your biggest voltage drop will be and I'm positive that it'll fix your light dimming issue. My Yukon did the same thing and I'm only running a single amp (Hyfonics 1608d).
 

felixgun

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Ok i'm gonna try it and hopefully it works, but I may try the big 3 first since it's like a free route through some car audio installers I know that have wire sitting around.

At a fourth of the cost, the feasible thing to do (especially with your in depth knowledge in cars in general) would be to do the big 3. And when you see that 0 guage wire "laying around", be sure to grab me some! The point of the capacitor is to act like an alternating source of power.. like a mini alternator.. plus it doesn't die like batteries eventually do... if I had the issue i'd do the Big 3, then add a cap if the issue was still there. The rest of this forum obviously disagrees but I actually had one and it worked...well.... weird. But whatever! To each his own, good luck and be sure to let us know the outcome!
 

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a cap is a small, small bandaid that doesnt address the issue of low power. it will help store, for a short burst or spike, but doesnt address constant voltage issues.
Constant low voltage could cause way more damage in equipment failures.
 
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