Long term owners of BlackBear Autocal tunes.

[mikeyss]

This thread has me wanting a BB Tune.i hate the shift points and the way the truck drives. Sounds like BB is the solution


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If you have a 6 speed auto, you will really love the BB tune. When my 6 speed tune was stock, it always wanted to upshift too quick... BB tune let's the trans stay in all of the gears longer, especially at light throttle. The shifts under normal acceleration feel stock, but when you put the hammer down, the shifts are much firmer and quicker.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

As started above, the shift points on the 6-speed trans are much better, after a Black Bear tune. When putting the hammer down, the tune will allow you to use all of the motor's rpm and power range, before shifting to the next gear.

Just do it!

 

[chilleblanco36]

I am. Just purchased an autocal and it should be here Tuesday. Getting the tune underway ASAP at that point


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[Peacock]

I put my deposit in on the Autocal V3 on Friday, I didn't realize there was regular, V2 and V3 but it seems the V3 is the only one you can order.
Reading all the comments of what it does convinced me to do it, I was waiting till I got the aftermarket muffler on before going to this step, and they finally let the muffler shop reopen.
Hopefully the Autocal isn't to long of a wait to become available so I can get a little more geddy-up on this Tahoe.

 

[cmatt]

Does Black Bear offer a discount for forum members?

 

[Rocket Man]

Does Black Bear offer a discount for forum members?

Sorry, no.

 

[hardluck13]

Sorry I’ll admit that I just skimmed through some of the responses. I hope black bear is still here to answer or hopefully you guys can. All my vehicles from my high horsepower bs builds, all my SEMA builds and to my daily driven diesel and half ton builds are all dynoed with parameters and settings set. I have this NBS Tahoe that’s currently motor stock but is Done at suspension, then Is the paints shop and then finally motor. Tahoe has 55k (prob 60k now) og miles and I’m looking to changed out rear end, header, intake, stall, exhaust, cam and probably heads - nothing major. Is black bear the the way to go to set my upgrades, have ir stored in a handheld and then if I do more upgrades are there more charges to change the needs of the truck? Or how does it all work?

 

[Doubeleive]

Sorry I’ll admit that I just skimmed through some of the responses. I hope black bear is still here to answer or hopefully you guys can. All my vehicles from my high horsepower bs builds, all my SEMA builds and to my daily driven diesel and half ton builds are all dynoed with parameters and settings set. I have this NBS Tahoe that’s currently motor stock but is Done at suspension, then Is the paints shop and then finally motor. Tahoe has 55k (prob 60k now) og miles and I’m looking to changed out rear end, header, intake, stall, exhaust, cam and probably heads - nothing major. Is black bear the the way to go to set my upgrades, have ir stored in a handheld and then if I do more upgrades are there more charges to change the needs of the truck? Or how does it all work?

they give free re-tunes as long as you own the vehicle so if you change something they send you new tune, usually takes 2-weeks it's not a overnight sensation type of thing, they are busy and new customers get in line first.

 

[hardluck13]

Thanks for the quick reply. Do I need to have it dynoed and the numbers sent off for them to know base line and then dynoed for them to know adders and have them tune appropriately? And I assuming like the hypertechs or whatever for 20 years ago putting back to stock is simple through the hand held? I just thought I’d try something different with this old ass Hoe. It’s been fun messing around and playing with it. I love the NBS interiors and having this thing in the family since new I know it’s secrets and figured it can be fun. I have a grip of trucks ans all my old cars. So I thought a NBS but Tahoe could be fun. It has been except: the ride is dog shit. It has torsion delete, full adjustable coilovers, all new bushings, sway bars front and rear, DJM rear kit, Tony’s springs, belltech rear shocks (DJM extenders), adjustable panhard, belltech front spindles along with the coilovers. Only other thought is full moog make over up front along offset a arms. But I’ve have the full spohn treatment in the real (kept the panhard) and nothing is helping . I’ve had some crazy ass SEMA builds that people thought wouldn’t work that rode and out performed this and many other trucks. One won autocross and Goodguys and SEMA awards. Sorry to sound like an ass. After my meds and alcohol just hoping to find help this great forum seems right give a lot of others. Thanks again. I’ve belonged for along time but never share. Love the threads and pictures. One is marks (the machine and the beast). It sucked caused I read each post in it’s entirety and during which I was I like no don’t wanna get this , and save your money for this, but I was so far behind I couldn’t help. Great job with both just wish I could’ve helped. Sorry for horrible grammar

 

[Rocket Man]

Thanks for the quick reply. Do I need to have it dynoed and the numbers sent off for them to know base line and then dynoed for them to know adders and have them tune appropriately? And I assuming like the hypertechs or whatever for 20 years ago putting back to stock is simple through the hand held? I just thought I’d try something different with this old ass Hoe. It’s been fun messing around and playing with it. I love the NBS interiors and having this thing in the family since new I know it’s secrets and figured it can be fun. I have a grip of trucks ans all my old cars. So I thought a NBS but Tahoe could be fun. It has been except: the ride is dog shit. It has torsion delete, full adjustable coilovers, all new bushings, sway bars front and rear, DJM rear kit, Tony’s springs, belltech rear shocks (DJM extenders), adjustable panhard, belltech front spindles along with the coilovers. Only other thought is full moog make over up front along offset a arms. But I’ve have the full spohn treatment in the real (kept the panhard) and nothing is helping . I’ve had some crazy ass SEMA builds that people thought wouldn’t work that rode and out performed this and many other trucks. One won autocross and Goodguys and SEMA awards. Sorry to sound like an ass. After my meds and alcohol just hoping to find help this great forum seems right give a lot of others. Thanks again. I’ve belonged for along time but never share. Love the threads and pictures. One is marks (the machine and the beast). It sucked caused I read each post in it’s entirety and during which I was I like no don’t wanna get this , and save your money for this, but I was so far behind I couldn’t help. Great job with both just wish I could’ve helped. Sorry for horrible grammar

First off, thanks for the mention on my builds. I have learned a lot throughout and I’m sure you could have helped if you’ve been there done that but I guess there’s also nothing like learning on your own. As far as tuning, I suggest buying an Autocal and then all you have to do is go for a half hour drive and hit some WOT runs while data logging. Then you download that data to a computer and email it to Blackbear. They build a tune based on what you want, your modifications, and the data and email it back to you. You transfer it from your computer to the Autocal, and then flash your BCM/TCM. No dyno needed. Any time you change things including power adders or wheel/ tire size you can get a free retune for as long as you own the vehicle. Your original tune files are also saved although at a certain point they’re worthless, like when you change cams or add a blower or whatever. You can find used Autocal for around $150 here in the classifieds or over at performancetrucks.net and then you just pay for the VIN license/ tune. Each Autocal can be used for about 100 GM vehicles I believe, just have to pay for each tune once per VIN. I have had both my vehicles retuned multiple times.