Looking for a high output alternator.....

[wendal]

I'm looking to upgrade my oem alternator to a high wattage alternator. Has anyone done this?

Can you give me pointers/links to good ones?

Thanks in advance!

Wendal

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[badandyturbo]

Mechman. Done.

 

[Doubeleive]

I bought this 300amp one 2yrs ago, works great and wasn't $500
https://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Outpu...dWsDhp:sc:USPSPriorityFlatRateBox!95219!US!-1

 

[wendal]

Thank you both. I went with the ebay one recommended by @Doubeleive . Yeah, that $500 thing was making me hesitant. I could buy 2 of these and not hit that number. Thanks!

 

[wendal]

@Doubeleive , did you have to change the fuse on the firewall with the high output alternator? The default is 175 amp. did you upgrade this fuse?

 

[Doubeleive]

@Doubeleive , did you have to change the fuse on the firewall with the high output alternator? The default is 175 amp. did you upgrade this fuse?View attachment 222161

no I didn't mess with the fuse, I don't think that is related to alternator output I believe that is intended to be a fusible link in case of a short circuit. but I am just guessing based on how it is installed in the trucks

 

[SnowDrifter]

I've used DC power in the past with great success. Don't know how much power it actually put out cause the damn thing sent my 400 amp clamp meter into overload. 390xp unit.

Mechman makes great units too

I know they're pricey, but trust me, it's worth the cost. Cheap ** alts either don't perform, break, or both. Buy once cry once. An alternator is a critical part of your vehicle and best case, will leave you stranded. Worst case, will blow out any electronic bits that aren't high voltage protected. I see too many alt failures in my neck of the woods (audio gear) to be cool with cheaping out on them

Don't forget to do your big 3 upgrade! Use OFC. If I see you use CCA I'll kick you in the ding ding

 

[Doubeleive]

I've used DC power in the past with great success. Don't know how much power it actually put out cause the damn thing sent my 400 amp clamp meter into overload. 390xp unit.

Mechman makes great units too

I know they're pricey, but trust me, it's worth the cost. Cheap ** alts either don't perform, break, or both. Buy once cry once. An alternator is a critical part of your vehicle and best case, will leave you stranded. Worst case, will blow out any electronic bits that aren't high voltage protected. I see too many alt failures in my neck of the woods (audio gear) to be cool with cheaping out on them

Don't forget to do your big 3 upgrade! Use OFC. If I see you use CCA I'll kick you in the ding ding

this one I bought and linked above is just a rewound oem dr44g same thing I had on my nbs never had a problem, I have a 5000w orion and (2) 12w6, 0 gauge and dual agm's, no flickering or dimming etc, the orion is turned down a bit because the 12w6's cant take 5000w

 

[SnowDrifter]

Have you load tested the alt hot/cold, idle/2k? What do the temps look like after an extended load?

 

[wendal]

@Doubeleive and @SnowDrifter , How do you test the output of an alternator? And Yes, I did a big 3 + about a month ago, with OFC (welding wire). I say + because I ran a new ground to the frame and one to the body, in addition to the one to the engine block. I also ran a ground from the engine block (alternator mount) to the body, where the wire strap mounts. The grounding eliminated my stereo system whine through the speakers. Let me know how to measure the amps coming from the alternator. I have a voltage meter, but don't really know how to use it (duh). Thanks in advance!