Looking for Advice for ABS Bleed with Scan Tool

[Jason in DLH]

And regarding turning off the ABS...

 

[swathdiver]

So I’m a bit confused as this is the first time using a scan tool to cycle the ABS system. A few questions:

1. I read somewhere to do a complete bleed on all 4 wheels prior to performing ABS bleed. This true?

2. I did a complete bleed last night using a Capri Tools Vacuum bleeder. Do I need to basically do a whole round of bleeding on all 4 corners with the ABS cycling now? Or just perhaps on the right rear (furthest from master cylinder)?

3. How long should an ABS bleed take roughly?

I’d rather take the whole ABS system out or offline as I like to lock the tires and manually remove pressure from the pedal to regain steering ability. ABS stinks on snowy, hilly roads! My old Jeep had no ABS and manually using the brakes works way better! Anyway I can do this easily? Perhaps simply pull a fuse?

Thanks in advance!

In July I had a caliper go out so we replaced/rebuilt all four. I wanted all new fluid in there so we first manually bled the brakes until the fluid came out clean. Then did it again with the Tech-2 for the ABS pump and even more gunk came out at all four corners. Went through 6 quarts of brake fluid.

 

[Jason in DLH]

Good to know, thanks for the info!

I just put the wheels back on and lowered it to the floor, so perhaps I’ll go ahead and bleed the ABS next time I remove the wheels in a few weeks when I put hub rings on.

 

[iamdub]

I've never used a scan tool to bleed the ABS module. Of course, if I had one capable of activating the ABS solenoids, I'd use it. Any time I do a brake job, I flush the old fluid by pushing it all out the back left corner while chasing it with new fluid in the reservoir. Just the simple hose-in-a-bottle trick does it for me. When I'm pumping the pedal, I turn the key to the "on" position right as I'm starting to press the pedal. I pump a few times, turn the key off and repeat a few times. The ABS solenoids are activated during the self-check upon power-up. With the fluid under pressure from the pedal being pushed, any fluid in the ABS module is immediately moved downstream, so the solenoids don't have to be constantly held open. Just repeat the key on/off thing a few times. I continue this until I'm getting only fresh fluid at that furthest corner. I repeat it for the rest of the corners. This ensures all of the old fluid in the system has been replaced with new fluid.

 

[Jason in DLH]

Great technique about the key on/off! I never thought about doing it that way.

 

[67RS427]

For the record, I’ve been running my Yukon with no ABS fuse for a few years. When I replaced my calipers, I did not flush the ABS module. I can see that if you put the fuse back in for some reason that there might be some fluid in it that might mix and contaminate but I don’t plan to do that. I’ll be installing my 16” Wilwood brakes soon and might just remove the module entirely.

My remote start works as well as cruise control... only downside is the lights on the dash. It handles much better in the snow without ABS and stabilitrak. ABS has scared the crap out of me a few times in that truck so I just pulled it. Couldn’t be happier with how it runs...