Looking for Black Flame Custom Pics Halos+LEDS on a Yukon
- Thread starter Mattfox27
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Link to BFC http://blackflamecustoms.com/produc...on-denali-projector-retrofit-headlights-p-100
and if you scroll to the bottom, you can choose the finish. OEM (chrome) satin, etc.
found it guys, thanks.
wow, do these things give head? LOL If I spend $945 on headlights I won't be getting any at home for a long time. LMAO
The black ones really look like something I'd like.
Gotta pay to play... especially with the big boys...
I'd say almost half of that is the cost of products, new headlights, ballast, bulbs, projectors, etc. and then the other half labor.
A good DIY if you're handy
hbr
Full Access Member
I pulled a fuse......no DRLs or discussion of them with BFC
pretty sure this is how you do it... (Correct me if I'm wrong though)
Here's how to disable the Daytime Running Lights on a NNBS 07-up
the automatic headlights will still work.
Pop the hood. (make sure the truck is off).
Go to your under the hood fuse center.
Remove the cover.
Remove these 2 fuses.
Done.
It's not that BFC 'kills' the DRLs, it's more that the H13 setup all but kills it unless the retrofitter knows how to do it. Our H13 bulbs act in three functions drl, low, and high ... to the degree I understand it, drl pulls diminished current from the high beam signal to light up the drl. When folks put a b-x projector in there it obviously can't do all three functions so the drl is lost.
The way to reclaim it is by recovering the signal and routing it somewhere else ... to the fogs, upper reflector switchbacks (park light signal is lost in this setup), led light bars like the philips 4 in the tow hook gap, or as a ccfl halo in the projectors.
It really all depends on your preferred look and the skill of the retrofitter ... but is also limited by distance inasmuch as some things can only be done in person and not an easy PnP solution.
As far as my super secret setup ... it's nothing extraordinary but if I told ya it would be a regular secret lacking super qualities.
BFC Automotive
Full Access Member
It's not that BFC 'kills' the DRLs, it's more that the H13 setup all but kills it unless the retrofitter knows how to do it. Our H13 bulbs act in three functions drl, low, and high ... to the degree I understand it, drl pulls diminished current from the high beam signal to light up the drl. When folks put a b-x projector in there it obviously can't do all three functions so the drl is lost.
The way to reclaim it is by recovering the signal and routing it somewhere else ... to the fogs, upper reflector switchbacks (park light signal is lost in this setup), led light bars like the philips 4 in the tow hook gap, or as a ccfl halo in the projectors.
It really all depends on your preferred look and the skill of the retrofitter ... but is also limited by distance inasmuch as some things can only be done in person and not an easy PnP solution.
As far as my super secret setup ... it's nothing extraordinary but if I told ya it would be a regular secret lacking super qualities.
Just to keep things accurate -- a DRL circuit has nothing to do with the retrofitter or their skill level.
It's usually a low voltage input (generally from the ECU and/or control boxes) -- tripping either the low or high beam circuit on -- usually when the car is running and in gear or with the e-brake off.
The headlight doesn't have a third circuit for DRL, unless it's a completely separate bulbs or system (the OEM halogen bulbs only have two filaments -- two circuits).
The bi-xenon projector has ONE bulb that fires up for low beam operation and stays on during high beam activation (a solenoid inside the projector drops to provide a high beam pattern).
The DRL circuit, if left active, will signal the new bi-xenon harness to turn on and the HID bulb will fire up -- acting as a DRL.
Please let me know if that wasn't explained properly or there is any confusion with this stuff. It's what we do here.
We've been talking with Bryan from here on setting up our vendor account -- finally.
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