Loose steering, I’ve searched, googled replaced front end parts and multiple steering gears

[east302]

Thanks for the comments on EVO vs none. I gleaned from you comments deleting EVO doesn’t necessarily mean lighter steering.

In my case, yes - deleting a functioning EVO did not change the steering feel. Now when the EVO sensor on the steering shaft was bad (similar to what @Joseph Garcia mentioned) that raised the pucker factor as it would suddenly “catch” as though hitting a patch of ice.

When I played the “swap the gearbox game”, a bad aftermarket box usually left a large dead spot at center - say no steering reaction between the 11 and 1 o’clock positions. Also, they had very poor return to center during turning. This was surely a reflection of zero quality control from the overseas gearbox “rebuilders”.

The pre-EVO box steering effort just feels closer to manual steering with the EVO box lighter like a 70-80s car if that makes any sense. On-center feel is no different.

Here is the adjustment that the aftermarket companies should be following. Aside from a paint job and some seals, I doubt that many do, though.

 

[Eman85]

I've had plenty of problems out of replacement front hubs, just because something was replaced doesn't mean it's good. More and more I find myself doing the same job over because of inferior parts, some bad out of the box. No such thing as a name brand or quality part anymore. I'm older than you, it's not as much fun as it used to be especially doing the same job over.

 

[Marky Dissod]

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[tenthirty2]

I had an issue with my 2008 Tahoe where the steering wheel was a bit loose in the center. Decided to put in a used steering column. Probably could have just adjusted the set screws in the joint on the column and it would have solved the issues. Similar to this video

 

[PatDTN]

Might be time to revisit the front wheel bearings and pull off the brakes before checking for play in case they're holding things.

 

[JR09country]

Spot balling here:
-new bolts used for install on gear box and idler arm mount?
- no frame cracks or fatigue where the bolts mount for idler and gear box?
- since everything is new I doubt the pitman and idler arm are the issue. But I would check out cognito Motorsports pitman and idler arm supports.

Good luck. I fought my fair share of steering issues on my 1999 nbs.

 

[V327839]

Idler arm bracket? The idler arm bolts to it to hold the drag link level. It’s called “bracket” but it’s actually a shaft in a housing. The housing bolts to the crossmember and the idler arm to the shaft so the arm can rotate passively. I’m just throwing junk out there I haven’t seen mentioned. I guess a bad bracket could let the steering to wiggle a bit?

 

[ZKWBQD]

I’ve searched this site and several more over the years. Along with Facebook groups, Google etc trying to fix my steering on my 97 2 door Z71 with 4 inch lift. I’m not above missing something along the way either.

I’ve had this truck for a long time, my guess 15 years. I’d guess I’ve put 15k miles on it since I bought it. Mainly used it for off-road, hunting etc. Recently started driving it in town and doing some restoration on the truck. The steering was a little loose when I first bought it but as I tried to fix it got worse lol. Shortly after buying it I installed a few front eng parts and different steering gearboxes. Currently have an AGM steering box.

I decided a couple moths back I was going to fix it once and for all. I replaced every front end part on the truck. Ball joint, tie rod end, idler arm, pitman arm you name it with brand name parts. Including upper lower control arm bushings. Also complete new Cunningham steering shaft.

Quite a few years back I removed the EVO and installed the bypass kit too.

When we swapped out all the front end parts a few weeks back I had the shop install a Redtop steering box to replace the AGM. Shop said the AGM box was tight, I said swap it anyway. Turned out the RedTop box preload was so far out we called Red Top they told us we could adjust it. We did but couldn’t even drive down the freeway, had to put my old box back in. Sent the box back to RedTop and got my money back.

So I’m back to where I was. We have the preload cranked way the hell down on the AGM box to tighten up the steering. I still has play at freeway speeds. Brand new BFG all terrain tires too. All work done on the front end by a shop in Houston that only does front end work and alignments. Been in business 32 years.

This is what I think. I think I’ve yet to put a good steering box on it. All these RedTop and AGM boxes are rebuilt. I also think even though I bypassed the EVO with the bypass kit, it’s possible I have to much boost. Not sure if I need a non EVO box, I thought 95-98 boxes were all the same. If not hope someone can comment.

My next step is to buy a brand new steering gear, probably a Lares. Chinese or not what I’ve read Lares maybe my best bet. I think they are all made in China now days.

I’ve kicked around in my head taking it to another shop and getting the alignment check. But I doubt that’s it.

I’d like to get comments. I need all the help I can get, thanks Billy

Try searching with DuckDuckGo. Much better search results.

 

[exp500]

Wheel alignment on these trucks is critical! Most shops just set toe and go. There is a very fine balance between Caster and camber available. You sacrifice one for the other, and wind up short on both! Adjustable upper bushings will help this. I'd like to see a way to get 2 degrees more caster.