Loss of power, codes 0131 and 0151

[SunlitComet]

The regulator is mounted on the right engine side of fuel meter body when installed.


Service and Repair CLEANING AND INSPECTION PROCEDURE

NOTE: Cover the injector sockets in order to prevent dirt and other contaminants from entering the open fuel passages.

Removing the fuel meter body assembly from the engine requires removing the top portion of the intake manifold, called the upper manifold assembly and throttle body.

An 8-digit part identification number is on a mylar label affixed to one of the fuel meter body assemblies. Refer to this number if servicing or part replacement is required.

NOTE: Do not use a cleaner which contains methyl ethyl ketone. This extremely strong solvent may damage components and is not necessary for this type of cleaning.

Use a carburetor cleaner in order to remove deposits.

Refer to the instructions provided with the cleaner.

• Before removal, the fuel meter body assembly may be cleaned with a spray type engine cleaner, GM X-30A or the equivalent.
• Follow the package instructions.
• Do not soak fuel meter body assemblies in liquid cleaning solvent.

REMOVAL PROCEDURE

CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
3. Remove the electrical connector to the fuel meter body.

1. Disconnect the fuel pipe feed and return fittings at the rear of the intake manifold.
2. Remove the engine fuel pipes that attach to the fuel meter body from the chassis pipes.
3. Remove the upper manifold assembly. IMPORTANT: When disconnecting the poppet nozzles, remember the sequence in order to ensure correct poppet nozzle placement to each cylinder.

1. Squeeze the poppet nozzle locking tabs together while lifting the nozzle out of the casting socket.

1. Remove the fuel meter body from the bracket by releasing the lock tabs on the bracket.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.

1. Install the fuel meter body retaining bracket in the intake manifold. Tighten Tighten the attaching bolts to 10.0 N.m (88 lb in) . CAUTION: Verify that the poppet nozzles are firmly seated and locked in their casting sockets in order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury. An unlocked poppet nozzle could work loose from its socket thus resulting in a fuel leak.

1. Push the fuel meter body into the bracket. Make sure all of the tabs are locked into place. IMPORTANT: The fuel meter body assemblies are numbered to indicate poppet nozzle order.
2. Push the poppet nozzles into the casting sockets.
3. Inspect the poppet nozzles in order to ensure they are firmly seated and locked in the casting sockets.

1. Install the upper manifold assembly. Connect the upper manifold electrical connector.

1. Install the new O-ring seal on the engine fuel feed and the return pipes. Tighten Tighten the engine fuel pipe retainer nuts to the fuel meter body to 3.0 N.m (27 lb in) .
2. Install the fuel feed and the return hoses to the engine fuel pipes. Tighten Tighten the fuel pipe nuts to 30.0 N.m (22 lb ft) .
3. Connect the negative battery cable.

8.1. Turn ON the ignition switch for 2 seconds . 8.2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position for 10 seconds . 8.3. Turn the ignition switch back to the ON position.

---------- Post added at 11:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:52 PM ----------

Service and Repair REMOVAL PROCEDURE

CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
3. Remove the upper manifold assembly.

DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE

IMPORTANT: If the fuel pressure regulator is to be reinstalled, inspect the filter screen (if equipped) for contamination. If the filter screen is contaminated, replace the regulator.

1. Disassemble the fuel pressure regulator snap ring retainer.

1. Disassemble the regulator assembly and the O-rings.
2. Discard the O-rings.

ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE

1. Lubricate the new O-rings with clean engine oil.
2. Install the backup O-ring, the large O-ring, the filter and the small O-ring.

1. Assemble the regulator with the vacuum tube pointing down into the snap ring retainer.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

1. Install the upper manifold assembly.
2. Connect the negative battery cable.

---------- Post added at 11:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:52 PM ----------

Pictures above show incorrect orientation of spider on manifold.

 

[Erich777]

Is this really the recommended method? Replacing the whole FI unit?
As in:
http://www.amazon.com/Delphi-FJ10566-Fuel-Injector/dp/compatibility-chart/B000TYLIFS
Im surprised its only $223 when the regulator itself is $72 and the pump is over $200.
(Oh.. $396 at my local NAPA auto parts)

Are there other symptoms of the "spider" assembly system when they go bad?
Is there anything to be gained by removing and cleaning the assembly?
(recall, all O2 sensors complain at the same time when she stumbles, and yes, sometimes shes hard to start)

 

[SunlitComet]

Stuck open or closed or leaking injectors. Overall ****** performance.

TRUST US! If you have the old stye assembly where the injectors or in the fuel meter body change it to the newer design you get the new regulator already installed. It is cheaper because amazon is not jacking up the price even if it is an OEM part.

Gm extended the warranty for the original fuel injection system becuase of this issue.

 

[Erich777]

Got the part.
Anything I should watch for in R&Ring the upper half of the manifold?

 

[SunlitComet]

you may bump things in the way but it should not do any harm. The thermostat housing/hose or distributor cap can get in the way but you should be able to finagle it without to much trouble. The bolts I believe are different lengths in different places so mark them for location purposes. if you did not grab a plenum gasket it too get it locally . It will have a new plenum gasket TB gasket as well as some others that should already be with the injector. would not hurt to put new ones on and maybe cleanup the air chamber without dropping solid debris down the runners. On the injector body the small o-rings should already be in You a liberal amount on the oval gasket for main body. It will be a pain to seat the plenum without it(even with it too). The metal bracket screw will not fully clamp the bracket down bout make sure the bolt is in there solid. Pay attention to routing of injector lines. Pay attention to the orientation of the clamp that holds the fuel lines to injector module. When you are ready for key on tests cycle your 2-second fuel pump priming about 5-10 times to push fuel back into the body and push air back into the return line as much as possible to reduce the effects of a stumbling engine for air in the lines. Lets it run for 5 minutes and check for leaks at line joints at back of engine and on top. Afterwards if all is well celebrate and burn some rubber to verify proper operating conditions.

---------- Post added at 04:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:15 PM ----------

Oh and don't forget to make sure your PCM/sensor grounding wires are reattached to the thermo housing fastener.

 

[Erich777]

OH... MY.... God....
Runs Like a DREAM!
Smooth, stutter free, and more power than I knew it had!

(Took me 2.5 hrs. Paid 220 for the part on amazon)

 

[SunlitComet]

Congratulations.

 

[gpracer1]

OH... MY.... God....
Runs Like a DREAM!
Smooth, stutter free, and more power than I knew it had!

(Took me 2.5 hrs. Paid 220 for the part on amazon)

Imagine how much you saved by not having to go to a dealer and have them do it......7,8,900?