Antichrist
TYF Newbie
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2011
- Posts
- 18
- Reaction score
- 0
I checked the truck 3x for vacuum leaks. I paid special attention to the base of TB, manifold, all around the brake booster, and all egr lines, as well as fittings.
I'm 99.9% sure I have no vacuum leaks.
I tested the EGR manually to see if it holds vacuum. Push diaphragm by hand, hold finger over vacuum hole. Vacuum holds in EGR valve perfectly. No bleed off at all. I held it over 2 minutes, and it's perfect. I lubricated the pin, as well as cleaner the inside with a little carb cleaner. Aside from surface rust, it operates as if it were new. And from information that I've found, I do have the correct EGR valve for 8500gvrw and under, using the pin hole vacuum port opening.
My concern is the EGR solenoid. When I bring up RPMs, I can feel vacuum for a second, and then it quickly bleeds off. This is while holding high RPMs, in park. I'll recheck again today without the use of a hose, and will have someone hold the throttle for me, if I have time...
I'm 99.9% sure I have no vacuum leaks.
I tested the EGR manually to see if it holds vacuum. Push diaphragm by hand, hold finger over vacuum hole. Vacuum holds in EGR valve perfectly. No bleed off at all. I held it over 2 minutes, and it's perfect. I lubricated the pin, as well as cleaner the inside with a little carb cleaner. Aside from surface rust, it operates as if it were new. And from information that I've found, I do have the correct EGR valve for 8500gvrw and under, using the pin hole vacuum port opening.
My concern is the EGR solenoid. When I bring up RPMs, I can feel vacuum for a second, and then it quickly bleeds off. This is while holding high RPMs, in park. I'll recheck again today without the use of a hose, and will have someone hold the throttle for me, if I have time...
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