HiHoeSilver
Away!
High quality full synthetic/filter and "frequent" changes.
Low pressure all of a sudden
- Thread starter mijohnst
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
High quality full synthetic/filter and "frequent" changes.
Tonyrodz
Resident Resident
2000-2500 oci?
iamdub
Full Access Member
What Nate said. I wouldn't base it off mileage, go by the appearance of the oil since it's gonna get darker with the more crap it removes. You can use gentle additives to help, but most any quality synthetic oil is gonna have a decent detergent package in it. Maybe you can use a cheaper oil since you'll be changing it more frequently but add a known good cleaner. Just don't use a full can so it's not full strength if it's strong stuff. Kreen? Motor Medic? Kerosene?
George B
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
If you have an engine oil cooler on that truck you may want to change the oil one more time. I imagine there was some residual diluted oil in the cooler. That might help bring the pressure back too.
HiHoeSilver
Away!
I've put Kreen in my oil before.
iamdub
Full Access Member
I know that's one of the known good ones. Then again, if your motor isn't so gunky in the first place, you won't have anything to break up and cause problems.
HiHoeSilver
Away!
Truth. With an "unknown" cleanliness factor, slow and steady wins the race.
I knew a girl like that once. Just once.
iamdub
Full Access Member
How'd the oil look when it came out? Thick? Any chunks?
I don't think the PCM would shut off the engine with 0 psi. I think it should as a safety measure, but I believe plenty of people report driving around with their gauge either pegged or at zero because of a faulty oil pressure sensor.
I'd clean the MAF since it's an easy first step and clear the code(s). A faulty MAF could cause engine sputtering. The engine will run with a dead MAF sinc the PCM will cut it out of the loop and reference a speed-density map as a fallback. If the MAF is failing intermittently while driving (or if there's an intermittently faulty connection in the harness, particularly at the plug), the sputtering may be the PCM switching to the speed-density table while the engine is running.
OP
OP
mijohnst
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2019
- Posts
- 250
- Reaction score
- 275
The oil looked fairly dirty but I didn't see any chunks come out of it and I watched it completely drain. It is the first time that it's been changed since I purchased it in December and I'd been meaning to do it. As a matter of fact, that's why I used the Seafoam yesterday. I planned on just running it on my short drives to work (less than 5 miles round trip) and change the oil Saturday day morning. So much for that. Before I screwed it up it had been running like a top. :/
I pulled off the MFS tonight and thought I could swap it with my 2004 Yukon just to see if that was the problem, but the Yukon is a FlexFuel and this Tahoe is not so the connector would not fit. Should I just go buy a new one? It doesn't look that dirty to me, but what do I know? Even the air filter looks pretty clean. I'll probably just replace them all just to be on the safe side.
My only other idea is to unplug the battery and maybe that'll reset the PCM? As Ron put it though, it's a WAG. lol
Also, I went and looked and I'm not crazy! Even the Seafoam website says to put it in your crack case and it won't hurt the engine. I'm guilty of putting more than the recommended, however. I'm starting to think the Seafoam incident is a coincidence and something just happened to go out...hopefully, the MFS.
https://seafoamsales.com/how-to-add-sea-foam-motor-treatment-to-gas-and-diesel-crankcase-oil/
Last edited:
