Lurching and Hiccups

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BG1988

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Hey there,

The symptoms youre describing are the same that we had when our 2008 hybrid 300V battery pack was shot. The batteries that go first are the ones in the middle of the pack. I confirmed this by calling a local hybrid shop and they had the software to read the voltage and load on the pack. All the wierd quirks went away with a new pack. It was about 2200 bucks back in 2016. The only time we see high revs now is after some time and the pack is warm. Were in Las Vegas so what I did to help air flow to the pack was to cut slits in the plastic under the middle row on the driver side. Yes you hear the blower a little more but it can actually move more air that way. In theory will extend your battery life by keeping it a little cooler.
i removed the plastic completely make sure to clean the vent (if the battery was replaced more then likely it is all ready clean)

Also the surge or stalls are caused by the AUX pump Controller Date Code of 089-11-XXXX older ones have the issue

Julian Date Calendar 089-11 =March 30th 2011 date code decoder

24261817 you may need an adapter for it to work with your Aux pump (pricey but worth it about 60$)

 
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j91z28d1

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Hey there,

The symptoms youre describing are the same that we had when our 2008 hybrid 300V battery pack was shot. The batteries that go first are the ones in the middle of the pack. I confirmed this by calling a local hybrid shop and they had the software to read the voltage and load on the pack. All the wierd quirks went away with a new pack. It was about 2200 bucks back in 2016. The only time we see high revs now is after some time and the pack is warm. Were in Las Vegas so what I did to help air flow to the pack was to cut slits in the plastic under the middle row on the driver side. Yes you hear the blower a little more but it can actually move more air that way. In theory will extend your battery life by keeping it a little cooler.


keeping it cool is everything. so anything you can do to help. I've read if you put the front ac on high towards the floor without recirculate on the fan can suck some cool air in and it helps cooling but I haven't tried it. my old pack would show 110deg very easy. the new pack I've never seen over 95deg. it's very stable temp wise.

if you want to watch your Temps, you can do with by adding the "pids" to the torque app and the 20$ obd adaptor. it will give you an idea how your pack is doing too.
 

Dirtrunner702

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i removed the plastic completely make sure to clean the vent (if the battery was replaced more then likely it is all ready clean)

Also the surge or stalls are caused by the AUX pump Controller Date Code of 089-11-XXXX older ones have the issue

Julian Date Calendar 089-11 =March 30th 2011 date code decoder

24261817 you may need an adapter for it to work with your Aux pump (pricey but worth it about 60$)

Interesting! So you’re saying the symptom of the lurch when the pack is hot is resolved with that controller? Looks like it may need to be programmed and isn’t plug n play? Thanks for the share!
 

BG1988

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j91z28d1

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I just figured that that all the two modes have an occasional jump lurch thing? Mine is just so rare that I have never been able to tie it directly to a certain condition of going into or out of autostop etc. It just feels like someone hit your back bumper and pushed you forward when it happens LOL. Maybe we can start a poll of how many two mode owners have the jump lurch thing and how often. Put me in for "yes have it" and approx every 6 weeks Hahah
mine hasn't done it once with the new battery. at times I can't even tell its going in and out of autostop unless I see the tach jump.

before that it was very often. I could make it do it anytime too, just come out to a hot truck sitting in the sun, turn both ac on max to cool down, stop at a red light say less than 5mins drive time before the cabin cools down, go into auto stop and if the light turned green before it started on its own, it was going to buck even trying to bearly get rolling, hit the gas to take off with traffic and it would do it bad enough you'd think something was going to break or stall. but if it was cooler or the ac wasn't putting as much of a load on it, it wasn't bad. I could drive around it. the wife couldn't, she had it do all kinds of stuff and mostly only used m4. just backing out of the driveway, it's a bit uphill once you've turned onto the road, engine running and she said it wouldn't go, reved up but felt like neutral. that happened twice.


my hybrid voltage was really bad in logs, like lowest cell I caught at 9v once while cranking, the highest held up at 14. still bad but not 9 lol. it never really threw a hybrid Battery bad code either. like once at the very end just before I changed it, and not while it was running badly. once changed, it's been months and perfect, not one hiccup, wife drives it all over daily and always tells me when the cars do funny things for her and nothing.

I still feel like 95% of the issues with these trucks is the battery was just badly undersized, badly programed, badly cooled and overall just damaged by 80k miles of normal driving.
 

BG1988

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mine hasn't done it once with the new battery. at times I can't even tell its going in and out of autostop unless I see the tach jump.

before that it was very often. I could make it do it anytime too, just come out to a hot truck sitting in the sun, turn both ac on max to cool down, stop at a red light say less than 5mins drive time before the cabin cools down, go into auto stop and if the light turned green before it started on its own, it was going to buck even trying to bearly get rolling, hit the gas to take off with traffic and it would do it bad enough you'd think something was going to break or stall. but if it was cooler or the ac wasn't putting as much of a load on it, it wasn't bad. I could drive around it. the wife couldn't, she had it do all kinds of stuff and mostly only used m4. just backing out of the driveway, it's a bit uphill once you've turned onto the road, engine running and she said it wouldn't go, reved up but felt like neutral. that happened twice.


my hybrid voltage was really bad in logs, like lowest cell I caught at 9v once while cranking, the highest held up at 14. still bad but not 9 lol. it never really threw a hybrid Battery bad code either. like once at the very end just before I changed it, and not while it was running badly. once changed, it's been months and perfect, not one hiccup, wife drives it all over daily and always tells me when the cars do funny things for her and nothing.

I still feel like 95% of the issues with these trucks is the battery was just badly undersized, badly programed, badly cooled and overall just damaged by 80k miles of normal driving.
any idea where the vent exits maybe clogged up? i'm assuming dust collecting at the exit "could be" clogged esp if it has like a weather flap or anti animal flap
 

j91z28d1

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any idea where the vent exits maybe clogged up? i'm assuming dust collecting at the exit "could be" clogged esp if it has like a weather flap or anti animal flap
wasn't talking about battery cell temp, but just inside cabin temp that would make the ac compressor pull a lot of amps from the battery. the old cells did get hot with use thou, when in stop and go traffic for a while it was pretty common to see 111deg cell Temps.

when I had the battery apart to swap cells, it really wasn't that dirty, so I don't think anything is blocked up. I vacuumed up some dust and hair but nothing I'd see as causing any issues. the old battery just wasn't good and got hot when used. the new cells have very stable Temps. mostly 85 degrees in the morning when first started and hottest I've seen is 95deg. and that's lots of stop and go traffic long times in auto stop with the max ac and over 100deg days. these new cells just handle the load much better and don't seem to need much cooling. I have fan speed on my scanner data and it's never running very fast since the swap.

I've thought about trying to get more airflow just for the heck of it, but with weather cooling down. I probably won't mess with it till next summer if at all.
 
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BG1988

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wasn't talking about battery cell temp, but just inside cabin temp that would make the ac compressor pull a lot of amps from the battery. the old cells did get hot with use thou, when in stop and go traffic for a while it was pretty common to see 111deg cell Temps.

when I had the battery apart to swap cells, it really wasn't that dirty, so I don't think anything is blocked up. I vacuumed up some dust and hair but nothing I'd see as causing any issues. the old battery just wasn't good and got hot when used. the new cells have very stable Temps. mostly 85 degrees in the morning when first started and hottest I've seen is 95deg. and that's lots of stop and go traffic long times in auto stop with the max ac and over 100deg days. these new cells just handle the load much better and don't seem to need much cooling. I have fan speed on my scanner data and it's never running very fast since the swap.

I've thought about trying to get more airflow just for the heck of it, but with weather cooling down. I probably won't mess with it till next summer if at all.
i was inspecting the connector on the transmission pump (the connector power inputside on the AUX controller) one of the big pins are loose i'm wondering if that is causing my issues with it?

Also I was seeing 0.3 ohms resistance on the Positive cable between both the MEGA FUSE and AUX box to battery terminal... I cleaned up the cable rings ,posts and nuts it's now 0 ohms now from the AUX box
(0 ohms on the negative cable to the engine block)
 

BG1988

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check the pins on the pump controller

did you ever get around to replacing it or still got the original
 

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