Magnetic ride shock replacements

[DennisT]

I have the same vehicle and it feels like I am riding on square tires...please let us know the result.

Also, how many miles on your rig?

The new shocks definitely helped the ride. But now I feel that I need to replace the rear ones also. When I go over a transition like an overpass I've noticed that when the rear crosses it hits much harder than the front. Any suggestions for rear shocks?

 

[Fifty]

So the Arnott shocks will work with the 2015+ vehicles?

I was on their website and it just goes up to 14

I really want to do delete plugs and some custom ADS racing or maybe just some plain ol Kings (lol) but the wife doesn’t want to spend that money.

but we want something better than oem as these stock shocks sucked from day 1 and are even worse when you drive down a dirt road.

We even run 18 inch wheels for more sidewall and a softer ride

 

[Buz]

Same boat, need rear replaced on a 2018 yukon denali 4x4... not sure what my options are or if the
ACDELCO 84176675 will work? sold out on rock auto but $400/amazon/walmart each..

 

[Thrust]

Just replaced the rear shocks in our 15 Denali XL with Arnotts. Currently @ 64k miles. The magnarides had been leaking for a while. This is the 2nd vehicle I've dealt with where the magnarides failed.
If you do it yourself, beware the passenger side upper mount bolt. GM didn't leave much room to get a socket on the head of the bolt. Other wise the job is pretty easy. Need 11/13 size sockets.

 

[Fifty]

Would it be easier to just cut the bolt, and then replace with a new one that goes the other way?

On my Colorado the rear upper leaf spring bolt was like that. So I just cut it with an air saw and then replaced with a new bolt (and nut. I figured it wasn’t worth risking a stripped thread in the nut when I tried to remove it)

 

[Thrust]

No I found using a short 11/13 socket with a swivel and short extension was all I needed for me to then get it on the head of the bolt and hold it. It was just figuring out that combo that took time.

 

[olyelr]

Yea I definitely remember one or two of the bolts being a ***** to get to and needing quite an odd conglomeration of extensions and stuff to make it work. Just dont remember which ones.

 

[Edward Medina]

I have the Z95 suspension on my Denali and did the Arnott replacements. Way better than stock and air leveling still works. I recommend it even if the Maganride hasn't gone bad yet.

Did you get the Arnott SK-3354 for the front?

 

[Thrust]

I just got through installing KYBs strut assemblies in the front with the xineering sims. Ride height is back to normal and it rides so much better. Arnotts are in the back already. Now I don't have to deal with magnarides.

 

[Denise Kilgus]

Looking for some help from anyone who has the knowledge! We have a 2016 Yukon Denali XL and over the past year, the magneride suspension has been increasingly irritating to my husband. So he decided late in the summer to try a conversion kit. He found this "kit" from Suncore: Suncore Industries - Electronic Active Suspension to Quick Complete Strut & Gas Shock Conversion Kit - GMC, Cadillac & Chevy , which I see earlier in this post won't work for the Z95 suspension which I also realized in this post, is what he have with our Denali. Now it frustrates me that Suncore specifically lists two Denali models in their compatibility chart for which this kit is supposed to work, so i think we should be able to return (but I digress). The hubs also purchased rear shocks from PartsGeek because the Suncore kit rear shocks didn't have the connection for the air ride (or air leveling) functionality which our old rear shocks did. Then, after battling with the "service suspension" error, he finally made a last ditch effort to ensure we had the right resistors by purchasing and installing these off of Ebay: Strut Bypass Kit 2013-2019. GMC, Chevrolet, Cadillac F55 And F95 Struts. | eBay , which STILL doesn't fix the "service suspension" error.
It sounds like we either need to buy the Arnott front and rear and/or get the sims (simulators?) from Xineering. I also read in another forum that if you tow with your vehicle (which we do - a 21' boat) that you should leave the rear shocks as the magneride. Is it critical to have the actual magneride shock or just to ensure we have something that enables the air ride/air leveling? Now, he has not retained the old front shocks that were changed out and he removed the plugs/wiring harness to install the resistors so we are limited in how far we can go back from where we're at without replacing some of the original parts. But what I really need to know is what is the ideal setup so that we can tow the boat easily/safely and get rid of the service suspension error once and for all. I am also somewhat interested in whether someone can describe the specific differences in the components of the Z55 Autoride (which we don't have but apparently bought the conversion kit for) vs. the Z95 Magneride suspension which our Yukon Denali had before all this started. Apologies for the lengthy post but was very happy to stumble upon this critical link here that we were previously missing! Have been chasing this for a while. Thanks for whatever info anyone is willing to offer!