Making my Yukon XL into an Urban Assault Vehicle

[01Konvict]

You could do a 3" true lift but for that money just get a 6". Either way I wouldn't run bigger than a 33". The difference with a key lift is not deep offset and 6" lift deep offsets.

 

[YukonXL04]

Hmm... I feel like youre subtly telling me to do suspension...


just curious, why couldnt I put a 3 inch suspension lift on there?

also, if I did that, could I turn up the torsion keys after putting in a 3"lift?

I want this thing relatively high up, not rubbing, and relatively durable... I am willing to spend money on quality

I am simply informing you of info I have seen over the years here. Alot of people say they run keys cranked and the CV angles are just fine, others say because of the keys they end up replacing worn parts alot sooner than when stock.

You probably can run the 3 or 4" suspension lift and crank the keys some more, maybe larger spacers in the rear, or z71 springs and spacers. May end up with a 4-5" lift. But like Konvict said, at the cost of that 4" kit, just buy the 6".

You want a big ass lift? Here you go

With keys, that gets you 9" in the front and 7 in the rear! lol. Want bigger? add a body lift and you have a big ass truck on 38's-40's lol
Here is what 40's on a tahoe looks like

That being said, you'll get like 10mpg if your lucky turning 40's...

 

[hotdog.]

The reason I dont want the 6 inch is because its just too big for my needs. I dont mind spending the money if a suspension lift will be more durable and functional.

Are there 4 inch lifts for the 4wd? I'm having trouble understanding why the two kits would be different. Sorry for the extreme noob questions but like I said, first vehicle ive gotten to work on myself.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

The reason I dont want the 6 inch is because its just too big for my needs. I dont mind spending the money if a suspension lift will be more durable and functional.

Are there 4 inch lifts for the 4wd? I'm having trouble understanding why the two kits would be different. Sorry for the extreme noob questions but like I said, first vehicle ive gotten to work on myself.

Here is, I think, a reasonable lift that has the look you want without going overboard.

http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69900

~33-34" tire is pretty manageable. 35+" is typically where the downsides start to become more of an issue. Personally, I wouldn't want to daily one of these with 35"+ tires.

---------- Post added at 12:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:31 PM ----------

I am simply informing you of info I have seen over the years here. Alot of people say they run keys cranked and the CV angles are just fine, others say because of the keys they end up replacing worn parts alot sooner than when stock.

At this point, your going to be wanting to replace most of the front end parts anyways.

I'd check and/or replace
CV's
Idler arm/pitman arm
ball joints
tie rods
UCA/LCA bushings
sway bar end links
sway bar bushings
shocks. Everyone loves bilsteins.

I would add a steering damper: http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71798

I would add a corvette servo/billet overdrive servo and a bigger transmission cooler to keep the tranny from blowing up.

 

[hotdog.]

Here is, I think, a reasonable lift that has the look you want without going overboard.

http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69900

~33-34" tire is pretty manageable. 35+" is typically where the downsides start to become more of an issue. Personally, I wouldn't want to daily one of these with 35"+ tires.

---------- Post added at 12:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:31 PM ----------



At this point, your going to be wanting to replace most of the front end parts anyways.

I'd check and/or replace
CV's
Idler arm/pitman arm
ball joints
tie rods
UCA/LCA bushings
sway bar end links
sway bar bushings
shocks. Everyone loves bilsteins.

I would add a steering damper: http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71798

I would add a corvette servo/billet overdrive servo and a bigger transmission cooler to keep the tranny from blowing up.

Yes this is exactly what I'm looking for. Just curious, what exactly am I checking it for? Just functionality at that height or should I check before that. That truck is pretty much exactly what I want to do.

 

[TheAutumnWind]

Yes this is exactly what I'm looking for. Just curious, what exactly am I checking it for? Just functionality at that height or should I check before that. That truck is pretty much exactly what I want to do.

Those parts? Your looking for slop for the most part.

This is going to vary by part, your sway bar bushings for example are hard to tell if they are shot without removing them, and they are cheap to replace. I'd just replace those unless they look brand new. You can get poly bushings that will help a bit with deflection and sway when cornering with your new higher center of gravity. I'd spend a few extra bucks for ones with zerks.

My sway bar end links were trashed. The bushings on both of them had completely shredded. If your CV boots appear in fine shape your probably ok.

Ball joints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=16&v=62bVn7E8gyk

tie rod check
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3P26ggg5OU

idler arm
https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=17&v=03TuEJoyKEw

pitman arm (same thing really)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3YpaYszFMyE

I'd check before since you are going to pull the suspension apart to install your lift, so you might as well replace whatever looks warn, while you've got it apart.

If you don't have any noise or play in your vehicle, then you are probably ok, but most of these are very easy to check.


Don't forget to get this thing aligned after the lift.

Those tires are actually ~32.8" here is the comparison to my stockers IIRC.





For tires I'd be looking at an aggressive A/T or a milder MT tire, a hybrid tire if you will. Nitto Terra Grapplers/ or trail grapplers might be a good choice, Goodyear Duratracs are a fan favorite in the Jeep crowd. The more aggressive tread/heavier sidewall/wider tire you go with the more weight/friction and noise you have to deal with. This can equate to lower mileage. Of course your already driving a "MURICA truck, what's another -1 MPG amirite?

 

[hotdog.]

This can equate to lower mileage. Of course your already driving a "MURICA truck, what's another -1 MPG amirite?

Legit laughing out loud. But yea thats fine by me.

My question with a key lift, which can probably be answered by google but you guys might be more knowledgable, is...

Am I just cranking the Torsion bars? is that what the key is for? or does the key go in and make the torsion bar itself higher? I'm just a little lost on exactly how it all works. Thanks guys

 

[Marv02]

I agree key lift is the best bang for the buck.

I would not crank the lift keys to the max if you do crank them all the way you will have a rougher ride and you might put you're CV joint into a bind that will wear them up fast that includes ball joints ect.

I did some more reading there some out there running 35 inch tires on Key Lift.

But once again 33 is the biggest I would run.

I am Planning to go to 285/75 -16 next time around also.

If you really want more lift after the key Lift there always body lift but that's a whole another story.

 

[southboundchicken]

I would go 2" body and keys for an extra inch or so or maybe a 3" body with 305-65 tires it will ook tough but not hurt mpg or performance too much but which ever way you get your 3-4" of lift i wouldnt go bigger than. 305 (33") tire

 

[01Konvict]

Look into Toyo R/T or Nitto Exo for semi aggressive mud terrain. The R/T has a mild sidewall but same tread as Trail Grappler. The Exo is trail sidewall but milder treads. Toyo has 45k warranty and so does Duratracs. Not sure about Exo but all these tires are far better for "MURICA" look then Terra or A/T IIs