Mids and highs dropping with sub playing.

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What impedence would I be at if I hooked both front door speakers to one channel, rear doors to one channel so I could run my rear tweets on one of the other channels.
They are 4ohm componets and 4 OHM 3ways.
 

YukonXL04

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I definitely would not do that. If anything run the left front to CH 1, the right front to ch 2. then left rear coax and left rear tweet to ch 3. and right rear coax and right rear tweet to ch 4. it would put you at 4ohm stereo ch 1+2 and 2ohm stereo ch 3+4

However why not just run the front and rear speakers off the amp, then the rear tweets off the rear speaker channels of the headunit?
 
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Ok, amp isn't going into cutting power. Rear 3ways aren't affected. It's just the tweets on the front components cutting out.
Voltage is fine 13.9 avg
Droops to 12.4-12.8 when bass notes hit.
 

YukonXL04

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eh 12.4 is too low for a 800w sub amp and a 4ch...
Im betting your sending too much power to the front components and the tweeter protection circuit in the crossover is cutting out. also could be a loose connection on the tweeter side...
 

DCT

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Connect speakers directly to the head unit. If it still cuts out, then the headunit is the problem. If it plays fine, then it's the amp itself or the amp is not set up properly and it's time to get out the multimeter and start testing.
 

YukonXL04

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Connect speakers directly to the head unit. If it still cuts out, then the headunit is the problem. If it plays fine, then it's the amp itself or the amp is not set up properly and it's time to get out the multimeter and start testing.

Not necessarily. If the tweeters or cross overs are messed up then regardless what its connected to they still wont work properly. I would start by swapping the front and rear speaker wires at the amp to see if the problem stays on those same 2 channels of the amp or if it moves. Im betting either the crossover gave out or the tweeters have blown.
 
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Not necessarily. If the tweeters or cross overs are messed up then regardless what its connected to they still wont work properly. I would start by swapping the front and rear speaker wires at the amp to see if the problem stays on those same 2 channels of the amp or if it moves. Im betting either the crossover gave out or the tweeters have blown.
I solved the problem. Adjusted the gains with my headunit at nearly full volume.

My sub is dropping me down to 12.1v though. Thinking I need at least the 140amp alt and another battery.

If I did the 140amp alternator and an xsd1400 14v battery do you think this would support 2500-3000 watts rms?
 

YukonXL04

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Nope lol.. I ran dual group 31 batts with a 200 amp alt and still had voltage drop with a 2500.1 and a 200.4
 

DCT

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Don't focus on watts. It's all about the amps your electronics need and having the wiring to deliver it. Just call knukonceptz.com they can walk you through the basics. For music, your amp draw will fluctuate, the alternator doesn't necessarily have to match the total fuse ratings of your amps.
 

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