Mild 6.0L Build Suggestions?

[Matthew Jeschke]

Okay, so got my rotating assembly back after being balanced. I had asked they remove the crank sprocket (oil pump / timing chain gear). They forgot, and I didn't notice till I got home

Question #1: I'm not sure how to remove the sprocket off the end of the crank. Anybody know? The machine shop is 2 hours out of my way otherwise I'd just swing back by

Question #2: I see I can buy new wrist pin retainers on SummitRacing.com. I'm not sure which ones to get though... I'm going to order some new ones as they look pretty cheap. Any clues?

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/piston-wrist-pin-retainers

Question #3: I also forgot to ask them to drill additional oil relief holes on the sides of the pistons where the oil ring goes. The LS style pistons only have 4 reliefs above the wrist pins on the piston. The older style and aftermarket have more above the piston skirts in the oil ring. I see people modifying stock style pistons to add the reliefs. That said my motor had zero problems with varnish on oil rings. Not sure if I just forget the having the reliefs or take the pistons back to the machine shop.

 

[iamdub]

Okay, so got my rotating assembly back after being balanced. I had asked they remove the crank sprocket (oil pump / timing chain gear). They forgot, and I didn't notice till I got home

Question #1: I'm not sure how to remove the sprocket off the end of the crank. Anybody know? The machine shop is 2 hours out of my way otherwise I'd just swing back by

Question #2: I see I can buy new wrist pin retainers on SummitRacing.com. I'm not sure which ones to get though... I'm going to order some new ones as they look pretty cheap. Any clues?

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/piston-wrist-pin-retainers

Question #3: I also forgot to ask them to drill additional oil relief holes on the sides of the pistons where the oil ring goes. The LS style pistons only have 4 reliefs above the wrist pins on the piston. The older style and aftermarket have more above the piston skirts in the oil ring. I see people modifying stock style pistons to add the reliefs. That said my motor had zero problems with varnish on oil rings. Not sure if I just forget the having the reliefs or take the pistons back to the machine shop.

#1: I've always just used a cheap set of 3-jaw pullers from HF. It's a set of three or four different sizes and I use them to remove the crank pulley and the timing sprocket.

#2: My preference is the spiral lock ring style since it secures a full 360° and they're kind of a ***** to get out (meaning they won't fall out).

#3: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. But, if it makes you feel better, drill the oil drain holes.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

I was looking at thought about the spiral ones... You don't need a special piston for those? I just have OEM LQ9 pisyons. I wasnt sure if I could use those.

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[iamdub]

I was looking at thought about the spiral ones... You don't need a special piston for those? I just have OEM LQ9 pisyons. I wasnt sure if I could use those.

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That's right- stock pistons... They may have some for them, but you'd probably have to call the manufacturer directly to get a part number for your pistons. Honestly, I don't see why new stock ones wouldn't be fine. It's not an all-out race engine.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Gosh, I'm ready to strangle the machine shop for not getting this sprocket off the crank. I rented a 3 jaw puller and for the life of me it won't get a bite to pull it off. I live 2 hours from machine shop and honestly, in my job everybody has shafted me and done stuff like this for the past 4 months. I live in Southern Arizona and dude, I'm ready to cry the number of people who just are completely unreliable. I'm a real estate agent, and I have a client remodeling a home. None of the contractors would ever show up to do the work, so I did a large portion of the remodel myself. Super discouraged as now I'm looking forward to getting my truck put back together and same thing seems to be happening with it. Need to vent a bit as I'm literally going nuts.

@iamdub You mentioned a 3 jaw puller, do you know specifically which one you used? The teeth are tapered so I cannot seem to get a good hold on them. Not sure if there's a puller specifically designed for this OR one that'll fit better on the sproket.

Thanks for the tip on the oil reliefs. I'm going to leave it be for now.

Here are some build pics... They did seem to do a nice job on what they balanced. However, they forgot to polish / clean my rocker arms and pull the sprocket off The shop is SUPER knowledgably but I don't understand, they didn't write anything down when I was there. Made me a bit nervous leaving the parts.

Curious, I'm assuming those weights they put on the crank screw in? I'm not sure how they are held in place. I kind of pictured them welding something in.

 

[iamdub]

@iamdub You mentioned a 3 jaw puller, do you know specifically which one you used? The teeth are tapered so I cannot seem to get a good hold on them. Not sure if there's a puller specifically designed for this OR one that'll fit better on the sproket.

This is the set I bought years ago: https://www.harborfreight.com/three-jaw-puller-set-4-pc-63760.html

I recall trying a few combinations between the different sizes of pullers and the two holes on the hooks before I settled on one that worked. I forgot one little detail, though- I used my angle grinder to slice the tips of the hooks so they'd fit:

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

This is the set I bought years ago: https://www.harborfreight.com/three-jaw-puller-set-4-pc-63760.html

I recall trying a few combinations between the different sizes of pullers and the two holes on the hooks before I settled on one that worked. I forgot one little detail, though- I used my angle grinder to slice the tips of the hooks so they'd fit:

View attachment 271391

Ah that makes since. If you flatten the tip of the puller it would work way better. I will have to snag those next time at harbor freight. Thanks

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[iamdub]

Ah that makes since. If you flatten the tip of the puller it would work way better. I will have to snag those next time at harbor freight. Thanks

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Sorry I didn't remember modding them until just now. This was done back around 2012 for an LQ9 I was building.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

I got the sprocket changed by machine shop. They were super nice and appogetic for forgetting. They clwaned up abd semi pollished my rocker arms for free to make it up. Was very nice of them. The sproket was rusted on. They had to use a press to get it off.

Beginning tedious process of polishing combustion chambers before I get 317 heads rebuilt at machine shop.

Also I forgot to get main bearings so crank is setting on old bearings in case... I ordered summit racing brand bimetal ones. Feedback says they are king brand bearings in summit case. Not familar but was 2 weeks faster to ship to me thank the sealed power ones and $30 cheaper.

Also a bit sorted, I bought rebuilt connecting rods off ebay. Guy claims they are fine to use as is without changing the rod bolts, but I am thinking of changing rod bolts. Bit confused on that though... if I change the bolts are the rods then needing machine work. There are some posts about out of round rod caps. I don't get what that is about.

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[Tonyrodz]

What year is your block? I have some cam bearings, real main seal and gasket I didn't use in my build, for sale.