@Dantheman1540 crate is probably cheaper
@fasteddy I'll list what I did:
5.3L will not bore to a 6.0L. Or so I was told by machinist. Mine had a hole in the crankcase so kind of a mute point for me.
I bought a remanufactured Iron 6.0 block, Gen III LS. Not sure what it came out of or if it matters much.
I reused the crank shaft from my 5.3L with the smaller reluctor wheel (less teeth) so I can keep my PCM too.
I got a set of remanufactured 5.3 / 6.0 LS full float rods, with new wrist pins, and new LQ9 Flat top pistons
I had it all balanced by machine shop... Some say you can use a 5.3L Crank with a 6.0L pistons... I don't believe that would work. I measured and was nearly 1KG heavier. They had to add weights to my crankshaft... the casting numbers between 5.3L and 6.0L cranks are same, but cannot figure out how the factory would account for 1KG of additional weight... Long story short you'll have to get balacned.
I had Roger Vinchi cut me a custom cam. Cams are very specific to what you want to do. It's easiest to just call him and he'll make you a cam for your application:
http://www.vincihiperformance.com
My cam is for low end torque. It's custom grind and same price as all the off the shelf cams. Hell of a deal if you ask me.
I'm using 317 heads despite advise otherwise. Just concerned about extra compression from 842 (5.3L heads). I don't always have access to premium fuel.
Be leery of modifying the oiling system, high volume pumps, etc. The cam oiling system is asymmetric. It creates a hydraulic wedge and can easily spin cam bearings (total loss for your engine). I just went for factory spec pressure on the pump. I didn't port it, or do any of that nonsense. If the factory pump got my old motor to 240k no problems, no sense in changing up the configuration.
Tuning, I'm watching Goat Rope Garage on Youtube. Then I bough a AFR wideband O2 sensor with latest sensors. The newer sensors don't require open air calibration so make sure you'll getting the newest ones.
MY MISTAKES
Cheaper to buy a rod and piston kit than rework factory pistons and rods. Then they should come with the pistons rings, rods, new bolts, etc. etc. etc. possibly even be better balanced than factory rods and stronger. Just make sure they are full float... Flat top are for higher compression and dish top style are for lower compression.
Pickup a cam, springs, and pushrods from Roger Vinchi and you'll be good.
Oh and I scored and got top shelf Johnson Lifters on the dirt cheap. A bit like hitting the lottery. The weak point in my opinion on these motors is the valve train. Most every mechanic, machine shop, engine builder, hates the GM style hydraulic lifters. They are junk, despite yes they did get my old motor to 240k miles.
https://www.johnsonlifters.com/Products/HydraulicRollerLifters/ST2116SBR.aspx
