Mild 6.0L Build Suggestions?

[ks03]

http://professional-products.com/secure/uploads/file/80032-90033 Damper Instructions.pdf

I think if you’re around .15” I’d put in the old bolt, torque it to 240, take it off and check where you’re at. I think Gm service info says to tighten to 37 plus 140 degrees, and 74 isn’t an option. However I’ve had new Gm bolts that would not stretch that far, and I think we called it enough when we struggled to get past 100 degrees, and checking with a torque wrench we were over 250 already

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

@ks03 OMFG haha I had not read that far yet in my build book. I don't think it has a lot of the fine details anyways. It assumes everything goes together perfecrly with no questions.

Wow 140 degrees. Damn its on tighter than my front 4wd hubs! Wow, but head def don't want it to come off.

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[1BADI5]

Crank bolt......I have an ARP because I was not going to buy a new bolt every damn time.

Lock the flywheel and take it to 240ftlbs and done

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

I don't have a torque wrench that goes to 240 haha Maybe I need to invest in one. My hubs I guestimated by over turning the wrench.

Suprised a lock would hold to 240... I have one but wow. Did you install it on the engine stand or in the truck? Afraid I might break a stand haha

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[ks03]

I’ve only done them in the vehicle, lots of potential to knock it over trying to do it on a stand.

I don’t know how critical this really is, or what the potential fallouts from incorrectly torquing this are, but I know lots get slapped back together with the old bolt and a couple impact burps.

 

[fasteddy]

I use an impact wrench. I use the old bolt to put it in then the new bolt when done.
And by done I mean in the car with the accessories on to make sure the belts lines up.
I think on this one position is much more important than torque.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Thanks everyone for the help. I have the pully installed. Just not the bolt. I will wait to torque bolt till motor is in truck.

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[Matthew Jeschke]

I'm getting ready to bolt the heads on. The book I bought on this tells high level details, but have some finer questions...

When I ordered the head bolts I bought GM Performance Parts head bolt kit. ARP was a bit too pricey for me (although my LT1 got ARP back in the day). The guy at summit sold me a tube of bolt lube. I used the lube (VERY LITTLE BIT) on my rod bolts. Do I need to do the same on these head bolts? I see the head bolts also have some red paste on the end of them (some sort of locking compound?). I don't recall what I did 20 yrs ago when I built my LT1

Should I use bolt lube on the head bolts before I torque down?

View attachment 274660

 

[fasteddy]

You didn't install ARP studs? OMG your head will lift under heavy boost!

No lube on head bolts. Those are twist bolts. One and done. The red stuff is locktight.

Won't be long now.....

Maybe TBSS manifold?

 

[iamdub]

@iamdub thanks! any thoughts on the lifter drag?

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I've never messed with those lifters. I'd measure the OD of the three lifters in question. It sounds like they may be slightly, as in hundredth thousandths larger and need to be more perfectly aligned before they slip in. The other thirteen are slightly smaller and are more forgiving. Just my guess.