Minor performance mods help.

[iamdub]

Guys...

I modified the intake like I was advised. And added the AEM dry filter
I added a catch can (I know this doesn't increase performance)
Cheap muffler.
All this costed me 170$ as I got the catch can for free.

Not bad!

Are there any cheap ways to increase performance?

Other than basic maintenance if anything is already ailing (old spark plugs, etc.), then, no, there's nothing you'd really feel.

A tuning shop is asking me 500$ for tuning my Tahoe.

That's about the going price for a good, reputable tuner here (in USD).

Another tuning shop said 800$ for AFM delete kit without cam. Plus the cost of the gaskets and head bolts. Then labor charge. Cam costs 500$ or more.
Also the shop said once I do the AFM delete I have to do a tune which again, costs 500$.

Those are about the prices in USD for what all is involved.

Asked another shop and they said their AFM delete kit was 3000$.

That sounds like a complete turn-key job with all parts, labor and tuning. At least, I sure hope it is at that price.

But I saw this AFM cam on the comp-cam website. Do you think it is good?

It may be. But if you're swapping a cam, you'd be doing yourself a huge disservice to keep AFM, never mind investing MORE into it.


Your biggest bang-for-the-buck would be a GOOD tune from a REPUTABLE tuner. It'd vastly improve the throttle response and transmission shifting (while increasing its life) as well as put more power to the wheels. The tune can also turn off AFM so at least the system won't be cycling. This should keep it stable for quite a while until you're ready to delete it and make your engine as bulletproof as a Gen3, but stronger.

 

[Sandaman]

I modified the intake like I was advised. And added the AEM dry filter
I added a catch can (I know this doesn't increase performance)
Cheap muffler.
All this costed me 170$ as I got the catch can for free.

Not bad!

Are there any cheap ways to increase performance?

Other than basic maintenance if anything is already ailing (old spark plugs, etc.), then, no, there's nothing you'd really feel.

A tuning shop is asking me 500$ for tuning my Tahoe.

That's about the going price for a good, reputable tuner here (in USD).

Another tuning shop said 800$ for AFM delete kit without cam. Plus the cost of the gaskets and head bolts. Then labor charge. Cam costs 500$ or more.
Also the shop said once I do the AFM delete I have to do a tune which again, costs 500$.

Those are about the prices in USD for what all is involved.

Asked another shop and they said their AFM delete kit was 3000$.

That sounds like a complete turn-key job with all parts, labor and tuning. At least, I sure hope it is at that price.

But I saw this AFM cam on the comp-cam website. Do you think it is good?

It may be. But if you're swapping a cam, you'd be doing yourself a huge disservice to keep AFM, never mind investing MORE into it.


Your biggest bang-for-the-buck would be a GOOD tune from a REPUTABLE tuner. It'd vastly improve the throttle response and transmission shifting (while increasing its life) as well as put more power to the wheels. The tune can also turn off AFM so at least the system won't be cycling. This should keep it stable for quite a while until you're ready to delete it and make your engine as bulletproof as a Gen3, but stronger.

Can't say this enough but thank u again for your advice.

The 3000$ one is just parts and no tune and no fitting.

The one before will cost 2000$ but includes everything excluding fitting.

So going with just a tune is the best option. I think. And cheapest in this country.

But stuff seems cheaper in the US. Wish i could order the AFM delete kit and do it myself. But I needed advice on what I should order. If I get some help with that it would be great.

1. Need to change all lifters
2. Get a valley cover
3. Get a cam
4. All the gaskets and head bolts
5. Make the oil pump holes smoother
6. Plus something in the oil pan.
7. Change the cam sprocket? (new cam)
8. Chain guides?
9. Then a tune

I tried looking in YouTube for some AFM delete videos. Some are helpful. But no part numbers.

But the main issue is I don't know what to buy. If I make a mistake it will cost me hundreds to send it back and change the item.

ty

 

[iamdub]

But stuff seems cheaper in the US. Wish i could order the AFM delete kit and do it myself. But I needed advice on what I should order. If I get some help with that it would be great.

1. Need to change all lifters
2. Get a valley cover
3. Get a cam
4. All the gaskets and head bolts
5. Make the oil pump holes smoother
6. Plus something in the oil pan.
7. Change the cam sprocket? (new cam)
8. Chain guides?
9. Then a tune

Lifters: Technically, you could just change the eight AFM lifters and keep your current other eight regular lifters. But, it is ADVISED that you replace all lifters to have new roller surfaces on the new cam. I don't think the money saved by replacing just the AFM lifters is worth the risk. Go in there once and be done and at peace that it's all new and good, ya know? I'd avoid the unbranded cheap lifters like the plague. OEM GM is the top recommendation.

Valley cover: "LS3" valley cover

Cam: You can get a performance cam if you have someone that can tune for it. Otherwise, get a stock L33 cam. This wouldn't require any custom tuning for drivability. You would just need a tune to turn off AFM and VVT

Gaskets and head bolts: This goes without saying

Make oil pump holes smoother: Absolutely not required. This is just if you're bored and want to

Plug something in the pan: Simply unscrew the pressure release valve and screw in an oil plug with thread locker on the threads

Change the cam sprocket: Unless you're keeping VVT, pretty much any performance cam you get, or the L33 cam, will have the Gen3 3-bolt cam sprocket pattern. You'll need the sprocket that has the Gen4 timing (4x) but Gen3 bolt pattern.

Chain guides: Replacing the timing chain guides/tensioner is advised just so it's new

Tune: Also goes without saying


You'll also need a non-VVT front cover and cam sensor unless you're keeping VVT. Depending on the cam, you'll need different valve springs. I'd put in a set of OEM "LS6" springs regardless, unless you can determine if your engine came with them. Still, having a fresh set would be best.

 

[Sandaman]

Guys,

I cant fill gas in my tank. Its very difficult. Changed the EVAP canister. Still same. Mechanic says to maybe clean tank or replace it. Also maybe change the vent solenoid.

Ty

 

[kbuskill]

Guys,

I cant fill gas in my tank. Its very difficult. Changed the EVAP canister. Still same. Mechanic says to maybe clean tank or replace it. Also maybe change the vent solenoid.

Ty

Vent solenoid is a possibility but many times the charcoal canister's filter becomes comprised and allows the charcoal pellets to escape the canister and into the EVAP lines where it plugs them and the tank cannot vent properly.

Disconnect all 3 lines going to the canister and then you can unplug the purge valve on the side of the intake manifold and blow compressed air towards the tank. You can also wrap a shop rag around an air nozzle and insert it into the filler neck, where the gas cap goes, and blow air into the tank which will pressurize it and blow alot of the pellets out of the lines where you disconnected them at the canister.

Just be careful when pressurizing the tank as it is plastic. You can actually watch the tank swell up, so add a little air and wait then repeat.

It probably won't get rid of all the loose pellets in the lines but it will get rid of most and it is much faster and cheaper than dropping the entire tank.

 

[iamdub]

^^^ What Ken said. Also, don't hit the lines with 100 psi like you're trying to shotgun the pellets out. You wanna use very gentle puffs to push them out. Blasting them with air just means you'll have compressed pellets jammed up in the pipes.

 

[Sandaman]

Thanks guys @iamdub @kbuskill . Will do. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Sandaman]

Vent solenoid is a possibility but many times the charcoal canister's filter becomes comprised and allows the charcoal pellets to escape the canister and into the EVAP lines where it plugs them and the tank cannot vent properly.

Disconnect all 3 lines going to the canister and then you can unplug the purge valve on the side of the intake manifold and blow compressed air towards the tank. You can also wrap a shop rag around an air nozzle and insert it into the filler neck, where the gas cap goes, and blow air into the tank which will pressurize it and blow alot of the pellets out of the lines where you disconnected them at the canister.

Just be careful when pressurizing the tank as it is plastic. You can actually watch the tank swell up, so add a little air and wait then repeat.

It probably won't get rid of all the loose pellets in the lines but it will get rid of most and it is much faster and cheaper than dropping the entire tank.

Mechanic removed the tank. there was carbon pellets in the line. Now gas is filling fine.

Total cost was 430 dollar
1. removing tank and cleaning lines.
2. Two front axles (from scrap)
3. EVAP canister (from scrap)

Hope I didn't pay too much.

TY

 

[Sandaman]

Guys

I saw these obdII devices. Can they read airbag codes?

https://www.obdlink.com/products/obdlink-mxp/

https://www.amazon.com/vgate-vLinker-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Android/dp/B088LW211V
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001245548416.html (specs)

I think they are quite nice. And one is a fake of the other.

ty

 

[Dantheman1540]

Mechanic removed the tank. there was carbon pellets in the line. Now gas is filling fine.

Total cost was 430 dollar
1. removing tank and cleaning lines.
2. Two front axles (from scrap)
3. EVAP canister (from scrap)

Hope I didn't pay too much.

TY

The mechanic dropped the tank, replaced 2 axles and the evap canister for $430? If so that's a heck of a deal! I'm cheap when I do work for people but that's less than I'd charge.