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BOSS

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But you are pulling the stock keys and putting in new ones in their place, so at the point where the key is removed - you have a loose bar with one end in the control arm and the key end with nothing.

My suggestion is not to remove the bar from the control arm at all, you could put the bars in a different way and end up with MY situation - one torsion bar is loaded different because it was removed and not put back in the same way as before. Over the years, weight and such can kind of bend the bar when it's loaded at a certain angle for so long. If you put them back in without taking note of their exact threaded position in the control arm, you could be unhappy. Until I redo my bars or buy new ones, my truck is higher on the pass side by 1/2 inch maybe less (edit). If I level it out with the keys, it lurches when I hit bumps because the tension is different on the driverside bar versus the passenger side bar.

Anyway, I wouldn't want someone else to be in my spot with a half inch off on a lowered vehicle...it looks like shit and it's the equivalent of half a foot on a jacked up truck IMHO.

B
 
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tybardy

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my truck as it sits stock right now sits 3/4" lower on the driver side already... and my understanding is that this is VERY common on these trucks...

i have never done anything like this though, the only car i have ever lowered myself was a friends 89 civic hatch and that was incredibly different
 

BOSS

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my truck as it sits stock right now sits 3/4" lower on the driver side already... and my understanding is that this is VERY common on these trucks...

Yup it is definitely common. My front pass side is what I was referring to as sitting higher because of the bars put in wrong. The rear is altogether different and I think I said this before but I honestly think these trucks sit like that because of increased compression on the driver side body mounts. I'll know when I replace mine soon.... :rocking:
 

J-Will

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you dont need a puller. i used a steel 5 or 6 inch C clamp. be careful.
 
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tybardy

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how much can you drop the front end by adjusting the two bolts on the cross member?

---------- Post added at 10:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:27 PM ----------

also, it looks like the three jaw puller wont work.... looks like a two jaw it needed
 

Grocery Getter

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[/COLOR]also, it looks like the three jaw puller wont work.... looks like a two jaw it needed[/QUOTE]

Most pullers come apart and can be 2 or 3 jaw...... they come disassembled in the package.....some, mine did.
 

OKLAGMCRUISER

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how much can you drop the front end by adjusting the two bolts on the cross member?

---------- Post added at 10:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:27 PM ----------

also, it looks like the three jaw puller wont work.... looks like a two jaw it needed

about 1 to 1.5" is about all you can get without severe ride changes...you'll need an alignment check after adjusting though.
 

TheFuzz

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also, it looks like the three jaw puller wont work.... looks like a two jaw it needed

I just re-read what I typed. Not sure what I was thinking man, sorry. It was a 7-ton two jaw puller that we used.

Just an FYI, we did try using a C-clamp at first (not my idea, but it wasn't my shop lol). The handle ended up bending, it wasn't strong enough to move the key. If you do end up using one, be super careful.
 
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tybardy

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now i might figure this out when i get under there this weekend, but which direction do i adjust the bolt to go down? (i.e. counterclockwise or lossening the bolt = lower)
 

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