But you are pulling the stock keys and putting in new ones in their place, so at the point where the key is removed - you have a loose bar with one end in the control arm and the key end with nothing.
My suggestion is not to remove the bar from the control arm at all, you could put the bars in a different way and end up with MY situation - one torsion bar is loaded different because it was removed and not put back in the same way as before. Over the years, weight and such can kind of bend the bar when it's loaded at a certain angle for so long. If you put them back in without taking note of their exact threaded position in the control arm, you could be unhappy. Until I redo my bars or buy new ones, my truck is higher on the pass side by 1/2 inch maybe less (edit). If I level it out with the keys, it lurches when I hit bumps because the tension is different on the driverside bar versus the passenger side bar.
Anyway, I wouldn't want someone else to be in my spot with a half inch off on a lowered vehicle...it looks like shit and it's the equivalent of half a foot on a jacked up truck IMHO.
B
My suggestion is not to remove the bar from the control arm at all, you could put the bars in a different way and end up with MY situation - one torsion bar is loaded different because it was removed and not put back in the same way as before. Over the years, weight and such can kind of bend the bar when it's loaded at a certain angle for so long. If you put them back in without taking note of their exact threaded position in the control arm, you could be unhappy. Until I redo my bars or buy new ones, my truck is higher on the pass side by 1/2 inch maybe less (edit). If I level it out with the keys, it lurches when I hit bumps because the tension is different on the driverside bar versus the passenger side bar.
Anyway, I wouldn't want someone else to be in my spot with a half inch off on a lowered vehicle...it looks like shit and it's the equivalent of half a foot on a jacked up truck IMHO.
B
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