Motor oil revelations !

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thompsoj22

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i would not use E series acdelco they use cardboard

so if you want a cardboard soup in your engine then go for it

I should put one in and have a cardboard soup then GM buys me a new engine for free.. (or it might blow apart from the HIGH pressure )

I can keep putting it in then get unlimited free engines once every 3,000 miles[/QUOT
1969 Vietnam, 21 Naval Regiment, NMCB-1 Alpha company, 7th platoon. I was an operator and we all got to set down after work to drink beer and shot the S*&T with the mechanics at the EM club. Great guys and these guys did mostly high end diesel engines, but some of the lighter equipment was gas powered. I had one friend, Bobby Rhodes, and what he could do to the Volkswagen engine was truly amazing, and back in the sixties, turbos where only in the Diesel engines for the most part. And Oil pressure is the result of volume after the oil filter, a high volume oil pump will give higher PSI. And I didn't say Mobil-1 isn't good, it is. I had a LS1 in a 2003 Corvette, and if I had one guy mention the valve tap in their LS1, I must of had 30 of them mention it. It wasn't a valve tap, but piston slap. It's really harmless, it only happens when the engine is cold and only lasts about 60 seconds after start. Mobil-1 5W/30 was the oil of choice by GM back then and it was great oil, never let anyone I knew, but I have run across a few tests showing maybe Pennzoil might be a little better? And WIX filters have always been top shelf since I cut my teeth on engines in 1967. But engines today have very little to do with modern engines. The engineering and manufacture is so good today that they have almost nothing to do with 40 year old engines. However, the Ford 3 valve triton engine is a and will forever be a sad low point for the brand. This is engineering gone wrong from the get-go. And GM's AFM or DFM are running a close second. i Engineering and installing valve lifters, a Integral Engine part that run the very good chance of coming apart in the engines lifetime is very very sad point. So many of today's top brand engines have become "Throw-Away" engines and are a stain on automotive engineers everywhere. In aviation this would never be allowed, any doubt, would seal it's fate. And I don't want to rant, so please excuse me, but if the EPA WANTED clean air, they would and should start with Power Plants and Aviation. Since I live fairly close to a Major airport I promise you, you would not believe how much pollution a Jet engine puts out and multiply it by 45.000 roughly, the number of fights a day, and you get the picture. The EPA always comes after the domestic automobile market, and it is because we are defenseless, low-hanging fruit as we are known in our society. That's not leadership, it's just underhandedness and fraud.


the new heavy's are becoming super effecient! most airlines are going to the new engines as they are leased hi bypass fan technology. google air bus/rolls royce/boeing their all onboard. I gotta be honest, when im on the beach in some exotic destination i couldent give a crap less about emissions to get me there!lol
 

Larryjb

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And why is Penzoil Ultra Synthetic 0w20 better?

Filter talk has been a great movie trailer, when does the main show start?

:popcorn:



If GM built to a military standard, these trucks would probably be double the cost. I bet they wouldn't meet EPA standard either.
 

JeffL

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Didn't think I'd change my mine, for years I've used Mobil-1, but I had to revise my thinking when I was discussing motor oil with my friend next door. It's pretty clear that Mobil-1 isn't the do all oil I was lead to believe and used over the years. So I ordered 9 quarts of Pennzoil Ultra synthetic 0W/20 for my L83 and a few PH-63 filters in my 2015 Tahoe. Oil is a strange thing when you think about it, we all have a "favorite" and how that particular brand came to be a Favorite is a odd kind of thing. But sooner or later we decide to find something better. Amsoil is the best by a good lead, That said, it's expensive when buying 9 quarts. I change the oil every 4-5 months or 4.000 miles no matter how many often I used the truck.

A drive a lot. 2005 ram 353,000 miles, 2002 Tahoe 287,000 miles, 1999 4runner 387,000 miles. I bought all three brand new. All three still pass Calif. Smog and all three pure like kittens. I have never used anything but walmart 10-30, 20-50, 5-20, even synthetic mixed with conventional. And Wally filters too.
And I'll add that I've never maintained a schedule except to say I usually give them 5 to 7 thousand between changes. Dont be fooled by the hype. Lubrication is damn near all the same.
 

Leardriver

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Here's a bit of insider oil info that will get everybody arguing.

I work for a Nascar team. We test oil in ways that you can't imagine. 9300 rpm, and the ability to cushion parts and prevent wear is more important than any other characteristic. All oil flows fine, cold starts fine, it's what it does to keep metal from rubbing that matters.

We would pay $10,000 per quart if a product helped us win. Price is no object when an engine costs half a million dollars.

We tested many oils, looking for a clear winner. A big takeaway is how great all oil these days performs. Walmart Supertech synthetic for $15 for 5 quarts is terrific stuff. None of us would have an oil related failure, ever, using any modern oil, Syn or dino, if we just change the stuff. These extended intervals, like 15,000 miles on my Mercedes, is a recipe for disaster. Oil is cheap, change it every 5-7,000 miles.

Back to the winner...we tested Amsoil, Royal Purple, Castrol, all of the boutique stuff. They were all good, but not measurably better than Supertech. Marketing and hype sells products on an emotional level.
The best oil with the best performance at any price is Mobile 1 off the shelf at Walmart. It goes into our Toyota engine, and we were the Nascar champs in 2017, second place in 2018 and 2019.
 

Larryjb

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A drive a lot. 2005 ram 353,000 miles, 2002 Tahoe 287,000 miles, 1999 4runner 387,000 miles. I bought all three brand new. All three still pass Calif. Smog and all three pure like kittens. I have never used anything but walmart 10-30, 20-50, 5-20, even synthetic mixed with conventional. And Wally filters too.
And I'll add that I've never maintained a schedule except to say I usually give them 5 to 7 thousand between changes. Dont be fooled by the hype. Lubrication is damn near all the same.

I think this is true for the older generation engines. The newer generations in the last 10-15 years is a different thing entirely. The 2002 doesn't have AFM, and a lot of AFM failures have been attributed to extended oil change intervals, although the early AFM had other issues. Ford's Ecoboost engine failures, cam phaser issues, etc can be linked to extended oil changes as well. I'm not sure about Chrysler.
 

MeHoe

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I always use Rotella oil in all my vehicles and my motorcycle never had a problem and it keeps the motor inside clean....
 

LittleFish

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CENTRIFUGAL OIL BYPASS FILTERS AND "4 BALL TEST RESULTS" A mechanic with the Pearland TX school system said they put cleanable centrifugal oil filters ($400) on all of their diesel buses. They have shown less repair on these engines. Oil analysis showed they only change oil (after the warranty period) 1/2 as much. Also I looked at a study of diesel motors in a tech paper from the UK using paper filters vs paper filters with a bypass centrifugal filter. here is a quote from the article: ENGINE WEAR On completion of the engine tests, both engines were returned to the manufacturer for analysis. The engines were disassembled and inspected to compare the effects of the two filtration systems on the wearing components. All the major engine components from Engine 2 were found to be visually cleaner that those removed from Engine 1. Components from Engine 1 exhibited signs of normal wear. Components from Engine 2 exhibited consistently less wear than those from Engine 1. Of particular note were the connecting rod bearings which showed a worn and wiped appearance in Engine 1 with debris scratches. The bearings from Engine 2 however exhibited a good condition with only one rod bearing shell from from the twelve exhibiting wear to the overlay. Below is a link to a classic "4 Ball Test" that shows some of the best syn oils out there. Mobil 1 really used to be the best, and is still a good oil, however this test does not show that to be the case as per their parameters. I worked for Exxon for over 26 years, just to let that be known. https://www.worldsbestoil.ca/motor-oil-comparison-2013.php
 

Larryjb

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Given that an engine will not wear out and fail in at least 20 years of use, using a quality synthetic oil and oil filter, is it really worth the expense and trouble of a centrifugal oil bypass filter? Unless you like spending extra money just to say "I will die before my truck does", I don't think I'll go crazy with oil and filters. I'll stick with a synthetic oil and Wix or ACDelco filters.

Up here in the PNW and Canada, the bodies would rust out first, other mechanical components would wear out and fail, and the lure of newer technology usually causes us to purchase a new or newer vehicle long before an engine would wear out. I doubt my cylinder head cracked because of extended oil changes.
 

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