My '03 'Hoe.

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Tom Joad

Tom Joad

French V8 lover.
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Chamonix-Mont Blanc ski resort,. France
I will document the way to remove the inside trim door of the Tahoe.


remove the door handle trim :
porter24.jpg

Remove the screw (7 mm) :
porter11.jpg

Remove the lock/unlock trim switch :
porter12.jpg

porter13.jpg

Remove the screw which is laying under the door panel :
porter14.jpg

Unplug the courtesy light :
porter15.jpg

Pull upward and toward you to remove the door trim.
Be carefull the PW/PM switches are still connected.
To remove the switches pad, you'll need to remove a screw from the inside of the door panel.
Mine is broken because of a bad explaination found on the internet. So I can remove the switch pad without removing the door panel.
Don't try this at home, kids ! :Nonono:
porter16.jpg

Colors of plugs are written. No way to make a mistake but if you're drunk.

Once removed :
porter17.jpg
porter18.jpg


The green plug is ofr the heating seats. You cna leave it plugged.
To remove the switches, just push them from the inside.
porter19.jpg

remove the inside mirror trim :
porter20.jpg

New from the factory plant.
porter21.jpg

remove :
porter22.jpg

You can't just unplug the mirror, you'll have to remove the whole harness. It's taped to the body twice :
photo 14

Remove the bold to remove the mirror. It's 10mm socket.
porter23.jpg


I had to do this bevcause my mirrors doesn't fold anymore. They unfold but won't fold.
I've unpluggeed the driver mirror and then the passenger mirror start to fold and unfold on command. Once the driver mirror is connected, it won't fold again.
PLus the driver mirror makes a sound when unfoldin, like if it was running free, then makes a snap noise.
I'll put a video on YT soon.
I feels like I'll have to buy a new driver mirror.
 
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OP
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Tom Joad

Tom Joad

French V8 lover.
Joined
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Posts
393
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Location
Chamonix-Mont Blanc ski resort,. France
I finally convinced my wife to swap the OEM radio for a brand new Pioneer 2500 something.

I'm looking over the net for infos about the harness I'll need and other optionnal boxes.

Usual issues regards chimes/bose system/onestar systemsteering wheel radio controls.
-> I don't have 1Star.
-> I want to keep the bose working.
-> I don't care about chimes.
In fact, thoses childish warning pisses me off badly. I'm grown up enough to know if i had to buckle up, turnoff the headlights or remove the key from the steering column before leaving the truck.

-> And Finally, I want the steering wheel radio controls functionnal with the aftermarket radio.

So Far As far as I know, I'll just need a Axxess harness for the SW switches.
I don't need any GM0something boxes because Iwant to get rid of the chimes.
Do I need anything more to keep the bose system working?
 
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OP
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Tom Joad

Tom Joad

French V8 lover.
Joined
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Posts
393
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Location
Chamonix-Mont Blanc ski resort,. France
Since my A/C is blowing a not-so-cold air, I'm planning to have it checked at the garage. I didn' know which gaz I had in. thanks to SUnlit, i can tell now i've seen thoses plugs, I run on R134A gaz.

gpl_ta10.jpg


**Don't mind the back thing on the left it's for the LPG system.
 
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Tom Joad

Tom Joad

French V8 lover.
Joined
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Location
Chamonix-Mont Blanc ski resort,. France
This morning though I was going to do a 4 hours trip to the French Riviera, my cluster asked me to check the brake system.

Indeed When i pushed the pedal to the metal a cloud of Dot liquid spread from the wheel.

The bottle is empty with some dirt at the bottom :
img_1210.jpg

It seems its holding with thoses little brackets :
img_1211.jpg
Is it hard to swap? Is it wirth to remplace it with a clean new one?
Won't it be harder to refill it?

Once the wheel removed :
img_1212.jpg

Close-up :
img_1213.jpg

Did it touched the wheel ? the inside tire is clean. There's paint missing onto the wheel but it's not clear who made it....

Questions :
Should I change this screw when I'll swap the flexibles hoses?
img_1214.jpg

the same question for this one.
img_1215.jpg

NOw I'll replace every part which failled with an upgraded one.
For those flexibles hoses, i'll buy Russel :

For exemple ici.
I hope the picture is not the real product since it has neither bracket I have on the actual hose.
img_1216.jpg

I've looked at Rockauto and noticed that regular OEM hoses had brackeds on them.
 
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OP
OP
Tom Joad

Tom Joad

French V8 lover.
Joined
Apr 27, 2011
Posts
393
Reaction score
69
Location
Chamonix-Mont Blanc ski resort,. France
One gave me yesterday night a picture of an original brake flexible hose installation.

Compare with mine and you'll find out what was my issue :


vue_d_10.jpg

and

img_1212.jpg

My mechanic did change the wheel bearing few months ago and I guess he add this little black cable tie thinking well. But that's what made the hose having rubbed against the wheel.
 
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Tom Joad

Tom Joad

French V8 lover.
Joined
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Posts
393
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Location
Chamonix-Mont Blanc ski resort,. France
When I got the A/C circuit refilled, the muy showed me that a plug had some wire loose.

Here is a picture of the plug(s):

img_2011.jpg
From the big black wiring cover get out two plugs. The blue one with a black and a brown wire is loose. The other one is plugged to the A/C stuff on the right.

But those last days this is not the most important as we have a f... weather with cloudy sky and rain an hour out of two.
I can't start my tahoe anymore. Everything seems ok the courtesy lights and the dashboard light up as usual but when i turn the key once more everything shut down.
I though the battery could be the reason of all the issues but it was ok (at least before several tries). I thing the ground strap could be the cause :

img_2010.jpg


I lie down on the engine earlier but even with a flashlight a couldn't fint the other end of the strip. Where it is tightened and how to access it ?
 
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Tom Joad

Tom Joad

French V8 lover.
Joined
Apr 27, 2011
Posts
393
Reaction score
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Location
Chamonix-Mont Blanc ski resort,. France
Some news...

I've changed the ground strap and found out it wasn't the source of the electrical failure i had.
The starter engine was faulty.
I replaced it and it started immediatly.

Then I had a "engine power reduced" DIC message. I touched and moved some wires under the hood and the DIC message vanished.

Now I'm back to square one with the grinding/rattling noise i have only when driving.

I've checked the bell housing just minutes ago through the little round openings without any success. There's nothing into it that could have bounced back to the flywheel causing this noise.
 

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