My 2002 Tahoe LS 5.3 flex 4x4

[Livebai8]

hey y’all, im debating whether to sell/trade in my 02 Tahoe on a used 14/15 Silverado. I really love my Tahoe, but have some things that need replacing. Ive been buying parts for it but am getting to the point where i do the work myself or trade in. I have to replace both blinker housings, intake manifold gaskets, rear pinion seal and all four actuators. I also have an occasional issue with starting but not sure if its a kill switch issue or an ignition switch issue. I have the gaskets and blinker housings but cannot seem to locate the correct pinion seal. I also need a high pressure power steering hose and to replace my oil pan gasket. I be been going over YouTube videos to anticipate what i have to do...now it just needs doing,b it I don’t want to screw anything up. Any words of encouragement? Again, I love my Tahoe nit has 218K miles and cranks on the first try.

 

[MrBalll]

Words of encouragement from me would be look at it cost for cost. You seem to have most of the parts and you do your own things. So you're broken even right now.

A 2002 Tahoe that needs a lot of upgrades and replacement parts might sell for $2,000 at best. So a trade for a 2014 Silverado would still cost you a little over $20k. If it's worth it to you to spend that extra money on a newer vehicle and have peace of mind it works and won't fall apart for another five or so years then get the new truck. Also factor in your insurance rates going way up for the newer truck.

I'm in the same boat. I want to trade my 04 for a newer model Tahoe. However mine only costs me about $750 a year in insurance so I'm happy with that versus payments on insurance and payments on a car loan.

I personally say keep it as I'm sure it's paid off being an 02.

 

[Chubbs]

you can get on to RockAuto.com, put in the make/model/year & engine. There will be a listing of pinion seals under "driveline" or something like that. If your truck has 6-lug wheels you will select the pinion seal for a 10-bolt aka 8.5 & 8.6 axle. Nothing to it. Gaskets & seals are cheap. I would recommend changing all of the oils from differentials, transmission & such if you will be underneath it anyway.

Get your PS pipes or whatever else at the same time. Flush the ever living $hit out of the power steering loop; it will take a good 4-quarts but you can use the Oreilly Auto brand or whatever is cheap, maybe top it off with a Delco or Lucas 'power steering conditioner' if that floats your boat. If the PS must be opened up for a line replacement a flush would be my priority. Just purge it properly so that you don't burn the pump up.

Now is a great time to get everything on the truck up to ***** if you want to hang on to it. But at this age & miles you are going to have a catastrophic failure of the expensive sorts if you don't invest some money into it, maintaining the original systems. I'd hate for something to take a dump & make you wish you had sold it while it was still running. You should be doing at least 1 R&R per week to keep pace with what is problematic and then get ahead of everything else because it's going to need everything. Besides your new parts you need to assume another $30 in tools for every project. Or you can always get specialty tools from the loaner program at big box stores, it just depends on your proximity and if you have double the money on tap for collateral until the tools are returned.

If you don't have a workshop book of sorts, you could look into that if you want to perform all repairs yourself. The Internet is great but nothing beats a good instruction manual listing the tools required for specific parts replacements and everything needed in regard to a maintenance program that will keep your truck on the road.

Differential Pinion Seal
Part Number: 2043 (AC DELCO)
Product Notes:
Differential Pinion Seal
All; Rear; (8.5" R.G.)
Per Vehicle: 1; Years: 1992-2013

If the main diff seal is leaking I KNOW the front axle shaft seals are leaking too. Now there's a job...
I just noticed your truck is 4x4. at least make sure the front diff is topped-off with oil if you aren't going to do a drain & refill, which you should. If it gets to running low because the oil all seeped out you are really going to have problems.