My Boom Box

[massivespl]

I know Sundown makes excellent gear, both amps and speakers.
But, checking here:
http://sundownaudio.com/index.php/subwoofers/sa-series

I saw that the sensitivity is only 81.0 and 81.6 for the dual 2 and dual 4 10's respectively.
Taking that into consideration, and again, all other things being equal and seeing a gain of 3db for each doubling of power, I'd have to run 8X the power to the SA10's as to the Dayton's. If I can run 600rms all day long to the Dayton's, I'd have to step up to Sundown Team Series to be able to run 4800rms. And since they don't offer a 10", I'd have to "step down" to the Nightshades. And even then, they wouldn't fit in my enclosure, I've got about 6 1/2" of depth to work with.
I'm trying to be as efficient as possible, both with sound output, and with my XL's electrical. I swapped in a 253 amp alt from a 3500 series pickup (direct swap, only $118 on eBay), and have wire to do a dual run of 1/0, the Big 4, and dual batteries under the hood. I certainly won't have to add another battery in the rear, nor would I have space. My amp(s) are/will be mounted under the second row seats, as is a DC-to-AC converter for my battery chargers (drills and other cordless tools).

Your thinking to much about it. Yes sensitivity matters but u do relize that rating is how loud they get off 1watt or power... it will change when u apply different amount of power. The sensitivity matter more for loud speakers/vocal speakers because they are light weight compared to a subwoofers moving mass ... more then likely the SA will be louder... it’s been proven time and time again to be louder then most woofers.

 

[xFuZzYx]

 

[Gossamer]

I have it toward the driver's side, with the woofer pointed toward the side panel. Here's a picture:

View attachment 196883

Ok, thanks

 

[willinnashville]

Looks a whole lot better once it's carpeted.

Roughly 2.7-2.8 cu ft, 4" diameter port, tuned to roughly 28-30hz. I'd rather give up some maximum output for increased power handling and low-frequency extension, which results from tuning below the vehicle's resonant frequency. I don't have a meter, but my seat-of-my-pants Spidey Sense feels like 33-35hz is the sweet spot - I found a test tone generator online, and swept from 50hz down to 20, and back up a few times. Below about 27hz, things start to get sloppy, but seeing as how I'm not into rebassed rap music, works just fine for me.

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Aluminum flashing tape, covering the holes that I sprayed expanding foam into to deaden the quarter panel.

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I'm obviously no guru here, but how is that box attached to the truck? Everyone I've ever seen that fit sub(s) in that area built a fiberglass backing or some kind of routed out multi-stacked MDF box. Yours looks like it's just caulked to the side of the cab. What am I missing?

 

[BigDaddy13440]

I'm obviously no guru here, but how is that box attached to the truck? Everyone I've ever seen that fit sub(s) in that area built a fiberglass backing or some kind of routed out multi-stacked MDF box. Yours looks like it's just caulked to the side of the cab. What am I missing?

Deadened between the inner and outer quarter panels with spray foam, then I scuffed up the metal with sandpaper to give it some tooth. I then used PowerGrab adhesive to hold the wood pieces in place against the metal, and used a few screws to secure while the PG dried. The PG adhesive is actually stronger than the wood itself when joining two pieces, by far stronger than wood glue (maybe with the exception of Gorilla glue). After letting the adhesive dry, I then ran a substantial bead of silicone around the joints.

This is the fifth vehicle I've built into the quarter panels, and after sufficiently deadening between the skins, it's as solid as a double baffle of 3/4" MDF. Both this one and the previous, I added quite a bit of the Pella foil tape you see, it has a butyl layer under the foil. Very sticky, it works quite well for deadening small areas. A 4" wide x 50' roll is about $18, I just happen to have partial rolls left over from my job (install doors and patio doors for Lowe's).

As I knew I wasn't going to go with a huge amount of power (as I said, 1200-1500 watts is about all I ever need), I knew I wasn't going to have to worry about too much internal pressure. From the enclosure, the port fires right over my left shoulder (when I'm driving), and only rarely do I ever feel any air movement. I wasn't looking to do hair tricks, don't give a damn about the buzzing, tin can farting noise most guys with 15's, 18's, multiple 10's or 12's like. Not my cup of tea, I want authorative, smack-me-in-the-back-of-my-head accurate bass. And I've accomplished that with every build.

 

[willinnashville]

So that's adhesive, not caulk? I had no idea wood and metal could be joined in a way that would work well for a sub box. Like I said, every box build in that panel that I've seen has had either fiberglass or a weird shaped wood box. If your way works, seems like you'd have a lot more space for a decent sized sub magnet if you chose to hide it behind the panel.

 

[OB 04Denali]

Niceeee. If i was to go with a 2 10's setup and only have 500Watts RMS total from the PDX-V9 sub channel to play with, What 10 inch subs would you guys recommend me looking into? Maybe 2 JL W1's?

 

[Gossamer]

I have it toward the driver's side, with the woofer pointed toward the side panel. Here's a picture:

View attachment 196883

I tried it facing the passenger side and then facing the drivers side. Found out it actually provides a lot more cleaner bass if it faces the back. I don't have a 3rd row seat so that is abit of a different situation for me.

 

[willinnashville]

I've never tried that, but I use my 3rd row a lot

 

[bigmike41]

Just started but on hold my transmission went out