my yukon is driving me nuts.....

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xeqshnr

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You can reset the code on it, but if the distributor is not set to absolute zero it will throw the code again immedietely. I got warned of this when I did my intake gaskets and scribed a line on the distributor and intake. Also drew a line in the dust on the firewall where the rotor was pointed. Got lucky and dropped it in right on the first try. But you dont have the luxury of marking things before they were taken apart. You need an odb2 scanner that can show the base timing in degrees then u can see when its set at zero. Jus my 2 cents

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retorq

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Is this what your 1800+ posts consist of? Where is your input on this matter.

No I've made several helpful posts, a few specifically addressing timing TBI and Vortec motors, the differences between the two and even pointing out other's errors in suggesting non interchangable parts swapping. Want links to verify my helpfulness??

Maybe you can go into one of the several threads about converting to hydroboost brakes and suggest they get it done at a shop??

Efans are another big topic that's discussed here, who do you suggest we talk to about getting that done??
 

SunlitComet

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xeqshnr said:
You can reset the code on it, but if the distributor is not set to absolute zero it will throw the code again immedietely. I got warned of this when I did my intake gaskets and scribed a line on the distributor and intake. Also drew a line in the dust on the firewall where the rotor was pointed. Got lucky and dropped it in right on the first try. But you dont have the luxury of marking things before they were taken apart. You need an odb2 scanner that can show the base timing in degrees then u can see when its set at zero. Jus my 2 cents

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I said it once and I will say it again you do not set timing using the dizzy. You are setting angular correlation between two sensors.

STOP giving out the wrong information.
 

05Yukon23

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I said it once and I will say it again you do not set timing using the dizzy. You are setting angular correlation between two sensors.

STOP giving out the wrong information.

Quoted for truth.

You might wanna listen to this guy. He knows his shizz.
 

xeqshnr

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Fine excuse me for sharing my experiences. I did not say I was an expert. But I got the job done anyway.

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frontyard mechanic

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hi, im new to this site and new to my tahoe lol, so sorry if this question is dumb. After i change my distributer gear and i find top dead centre the pcm over time will reset my timing or do i need a dealer scan tool?
 
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bubbz

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Just an update.. Should know something in the morning on wether she is fixed or not... I will post the results in th A.M. ..... Hope they give some lube when I get the bill...lol
 

05Yukon23

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Fine excuse me for sharing my experiences. I did not say I was an expert. But I got the job done anyway.

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No one wants to bash or anything. I was just saying sunlit has helped plenty of people.
 

Monzter Mike

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Yeah, you don't set the "timing" on these 96-2000 engines, you set what they call "CMP offset retard" (Camshaft Retard Offset). If you dropped in a new distributor you will need to set the CMP offset retard. The only way I know to do this is with a scanner while reading the engine's data stream. Your new distributor should come with some sorta instructions on how to set it, but basically you need to be at -1/0/+1. To do the engine needs to be warmed up, engine set at 1000 RPMs & if you have to adjust the distributor you need to turn the engine off when doing this. If your distributor comes with a clamp on it that don't allow you to turn the distributor take if off & use the original distributor clamp, mine was at something like -15 with the fixed clamp & set the P1345 code right away. The only time I know that the fixed clamp is correct is on the 4.3 liter engines.

I might have forgot a few things, but basically this is how it is done. For most people it would be best to take their truck over to a shop that can set the CMP offset retard for you after dropping in a new distributor.
 

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