Neat lowering idea....

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Well it would ride like a 3" taller spring until it bottomed out. The reason for the stiffer springs is because of the restriction in travel, not physical limitations.

You would still need to cnotch it if you were gonna try to hammer it... i wasnt addressing the clearance issues as much as the limitations of room in the "spring over axle" setup.. by using different mounts and creating a lower profile mounting situation you allow yourself to run more spring.. so you get a better ride.. clearance issues are clearance issues..

The ability to run a 5 inch drop spring and get an 8 inch drop.. or even a stock spring and ride to get down 3.. is just a comment on the physics of spring height and how they could be used in a different way.. as opposed to all of us wondering how to run a smaller and smaller spring.. using the spring to our advantage and modifying the mounts...

You are right though.. running a softer spring to get down 5 as opposed to the stiffer 5 inch drop.. could create a situation where axle to frame issues COULD be more prevalent.. even with stiffer shocks.. but.. im assuming anyone who went though this amount of fab to get an extra few inches and abetter ride out of it.. will probably do a cnotch and alleviate the clearance situation right from jump...
 

Badluck

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Don't forget about the pumpkin and floorboard.

Axle to frame can be fixed with a c-notch....pumpkin to floorboard requires some sheet metal work. This is the issue I am going to be dealing with. As laid out now, I'll have around 3" before the pumpkin meets the floorboard.
 
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Don't forget about the pumpkin and floorboard.

Axle to frame can be fixed with a c-notch....pumpkin to floorboard requires some sheet metal work. This is the issue I am going to be dealing with. As laid out now, I'll have around 3" before the pumpkin meets the floorboard.

lol we are still talking a STATIC drop.. lol.. not THAT low... besides on 24s the wheels lock out WAY before the pumpkin.. and actually you will hit drive shaft before pumpkin.. or maybe they hit at the same time... i never got under it when it was that low.. but on 22s.. i could drive with it slammed.. but the nose on the driveshaft would smack the shit out of something down there ....
 

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mob if you could take a pic or show me something similar on how you deleted the panhard bar would be great.please.

also this might sound ghetto but if you cut the stock spring and modify it the way i did it rides like stock 100 times better than the qa1s. when i tried it i was at the same ride height as the 10-350 qa1 spring took it for a ride and what a difference seriously.

it does not bounce up and down like people told me it would. i mean its like stock maybe a lil better than stock probably because the way i modified it. now if i put some bags in between the springs it would be good for towing but with stock cut springs are not needed for normal driving.

oh btw theres a secrete to this... dont just cut it and install it.
 
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Badluck

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I'm going for a super low static drop. You still have to deal with suspension travel. I'm running 275 skinnys on my 24s so it's even harder to eliminate more gap between tire and fender. I plan on doing a lot of cutting. I also noticed that the upper spring mount has to be cut to do the c-notch.
 
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I'm going for a super low static drop. You still have to deal with suspension travel. I'm running 275 skinnys on my 24s so it's even harder to eliminate more gap between tire and fender. I plan on doing a lot of cutting. I also noticed that the upper spring mount has to be cut to do the c-notch.

im not sure how low youre talking.. but with a c notch .. djm relocters.. behind the axle setup and rear 2 link (aka panhard delete) and 295/35/24s i was about 2 inches from running board (WAY lower than i can imagine being at static) and i was locked out at the tire... not the suspension.. and with 22s.. i could lay running board and even then i was locked out at the driveshaft (and maybe the pumpkin..

But again.. thats way too low to be static imo anyway.. thats pretty much pulling the stock pring out and laying spring perch to spring perch.


Dropping 7-8 inches with a behind the axle setup with a -5 spring. .should be pretty safe..

another alternative is doing a remote mounted panhard bar.. that is... mounting the panhard out further behind the axle to make room for the springs.. and stiffening the supports.
 

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When I get shop time, I'll post pics of the surgery. I have the McGaughy's relocators installed from my 3/5 kit. I'm waiting for my adjustable pan hard bar and am working on a set of used shock extenders.

There is room to do front mounted bag brackets and you would be able to keep the pan hard bar. If my planned set-up doesn't work, I'll explore my options this way.
 
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When I get shop time, I'll post pics of the surgery. I have the McGaughy's relocators installed from my 3/5 kit. I'm waiting for my adjustable pan hard bar and am working on a set of used shock extenders.

There is room to do front mounted bag brackets and you would be able to keep the pan hard bar. If my planned set-up doesn't work, I'll explore my options this way.

room to do it front mounted? If youre going that low your gas tank is gonna be in the way like.. NOW.. Part of having a pan hard. is when you tuck it shifting back and forth can cause issues.. some people are only tucking with 1/16 of an inch clearance on each side.. and thats too little to compensate for panhard slide when it lifts back up
 

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Mob, why not a Watts link?

It'll keep it perfectly centered all the way up and down.
I think there is even a kit at suicide doors.com (or somewhere for 67 Chevys?)

that is one app where Watts makes perfect sense.
 
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Mob, why not a Watts link?

It'll keep it perfectly centered all the way up and down.
I think there is even a kit at suicide doors.com (or somewhere for 67 Chevys?)

that is one app where Watts makes perfect sense.

sooo true.. and i LOVE them .. but i have heard so many leak storys that it has me scared
 
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