Need help with install. Please.

[GMCYukonDriver]

HA! ok, that's what I am missing. I didn't get that air cleaner stud in the stuff he sent, so I am going to have to try to bend mine. Thanks for all the help, I got all the fittings and lines run, should be firing it tomorrow or Wednesday.

 

[AtomicHoe094]

the stock cleaner stud might work. goodluck. make sure to keep an eye on that fuel pressure and the blower oil. you dont want too much or too little oil in that blower. bearings and all kinds of shit will hate you. (thats if the bearings are still good) people tend to blow them up then throw them up on ebay like they didnt know it was making all kinds of noise.

watch for the tensioner because itll rub that bracket and makes some ruckus..

 

[GMCYukonDriver]

Ok, so I have what is probably another stupid question, but I didn't see anything addressing it in the instructions.

First, what are the three small ports on the AFPR? Are they supposed to be connected to anything? I thought that at least one would connect to a vacuum line or something, since the pressure is supposed to rise with boost, but it never said anything about them.
Also, how do you adjust this thing? I fired it up today, and was holding about 12-13 p.s.i., and I need to be at 17.
Finally, I installed the whipple chip, but I'm noticing that the speedo needle is bouncing when I give it gas in park (only up to 1500 rpms), it's going up to about 15 to 20. Is this normal? I had a custom chip in there, do you think it would be safe to try running that?

Thanks for all the help guys, I wouldn't have been able to get this together so quickly or so well without the help. I got the stud bent. I used a stock one, clamped it in a vise, and bent it to the same shape as the picture. Works perfectly!

 

[AtomicHoe094]

this is what it says in my manual

"T the top and bottom ports together. Connect this line to the manifold adapater (plate that gets bolted down to the intake manifold)
Leave center one open

You turn the hex screw clockwise inside that nut to increase pressure then tighten the nut to lock it down so it doesnt back out..
btw thats number 48.. but it tell you to turn to the last page where they have a drawing of the FPR...

not sure whats up with the speedo needle. mine will do that occasionally with the old chip and new whipple one. but only goes to about 5mph which doesnt bother me..

also i would NOT use your custom chip. keep the whipples in there until you can get another/better chip made up..

 

[GMCYukonDriver]

Ok, thanks. It died a couple times going around the block, but I think that's due to not having those ports hooked up properly and not enough fuel pressure.

Have you ever greased the rear bearings? I'm assuming you have to take the TB plate off the back. How would you know if the bearings are bad?

Thanks for the quick response, I'll definitely get that done. I'm assuming that's what the small nipple on the driver's side of the adapter plate is for, right?

 

[AtomicHoe094]

not enough fuel pressure and running lean with a blower is nottt good. i wouldnt drive it at all until you can really dial that FP in and get a wideband or even a tailpipe wideband on a dyno.

My unit, has 2 zerks on top of the blower towards the back that i can grease. not sure what you would do in your case if you dont have any zerks.. Just change the oil or make sure its full/where its supposed to be.

youll hear the bearings whining and just bad bearing noise idk. lol

 

[GMCYukonDriver]

I'm about ready to throw this thing, just take it all out and throw it.

I hooked up the AFPR according to the directions, found the page where it said how to adjust it. It actually seems to idle smoother when I cap off that port, but then I attached the regulator, and it got really rough and surging. So I turned that adjustment screw farther and farther clockwise, which really smoothed it out, but it's still holding at about 8 psi. Any ideas what is going on? Is it possible I need to get a new regulator or pump?

Also, I'm wondering if colder heat range plugs would help smooth out the idle, but would that have any effect on psi? I was told by some to run them one range colder, and others told me I would be fine with the stock heat range. Any ideas?

 

[AtomicHoe094]

back a few pages ago i said

and go with these plugs if you havnt done so alreadyAC R42LTS plugs

you should deff run 1 colder temp plugs with a blower..


also make sure you have all your vacuum lines hooked up right.. map sensors need hard line not rubber hose. make sure you dont have any fuel leaks which would be quite obvious.

Keep that manifold nipple plugged while trying to adjust the fuel pressure regulator. and just keep screwing it clockwise until your psi rises.. if you take the screw all the way back does it decrease?

 

[GMCYukonDriver]

Ok, didn't know the MAP sensor needed hard line. Is it possible that could be causing vacuum issues?

Thanks for the plugs, sorry, I must've missed that.

I had the port plugged, and backed the screw out, and psi didn't change, but if I reconnect the vacuum line with it backed out, it surges a lot and has black smoke coming from exhaust (if it's too far out), and smells really rich.

 

[AtomicHoe094]

what side of the line is your fuel pressure gauge or what brand? elec or mech?

map sensor- probably not causing the issues, but you should never have rubber map lines.. since the vacuum can play crazy with those