lol, you have to speak "Brentish"
New battery installation warnings
- Thread starter gooffeyguy
- Start date
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petethepug
Michael
Is the battery in your truck right now AGM?
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
since when would interstate be AGM? lol
OP
OP
gooffeyguy
Tom
Not that I know of.
Did these vehicles come OE with an AGM battery?
It starts fine, even today with the temps in the teens. I've put an automatic charger on it the other day that does both types of batteries and it charged it fully according to the leds on the charger in about 30 mins.
Also, my dashcam uses a hardwire kit so it runs in parking mode when parked. The kit has a low voltage cut-off so not to drain the battery. I have it set to 12.2v and the camera used to record all night, but lately has been shutting off after 4hrs.
I usually turn it off when parked at home though because I have security cams or its in the garage, but I've noticed it shut off when leaving work and I'll look at the video timestamps to see when it shutdown and stopped recording.
2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18
I would take that as a sign, I normally replace mine when it starts doing things like that (better safe than sorry), the change in Weather usually does it
No these did not come with a AGM stock, sounds like a "upsell" I would just get another Interstate or get 2 new ones and run dual batteries.
petethepug
Michael
If it is AGM, they have issues with memory occasionally. They’ll charge up to 60-80% and stop accepting a charge. As much as I now dislike Optima batteries, their smart charger can recondition any AGM battery back to new or condemn it if if has a bad cell/plate.
You’ve got the drain handled with the auto shut off. I’d drive it to a Kragen or whatever and have them load test the battery after you charge it. If they have a conductive tester, do both. From there go with the findings and see if u have lead acid or AGM.
In the past AGM/sealed batteries went n all our cars because the heat soak. 100+ days in traffic were the grim reaper. The lead acid batteries wept all over the engine compartment with the a/c on full and no cool air coming in.
If you do have an AGM now, it needs to be run through an optima charger for up to a full day to fully discharge and recharge back to 100%. Glad to see you got a warning before your batt or alt died.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You’ve got the drain handled with the auto shut off. I’d drive it to a Kragen or whatever and have them load test the battery after you charge it. If they have a conductive tester, do both. From there go with the findings and see if u have lead acid or AGM.
In the past AGM/sealed batteries went n all our cars because the heat soak. 100+ days in traffic were the grim reaper. The lead acid batteries wept all over the engine compartment with the a/c on full and no cool air coming in.
If you do have an AGM now, it needs to be run through an optima charger for up to a full day to fully discharge and recharge back to 100%. Glad to see you got a warning before your batt or alt died.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
OP
OP
gooffeyguy
Tom
So speaking of memory savers that plug in with a 9v when changing batteries....
I've seen ones that use the 12v receptacle and ones that use the OBD port. Which is best?
Also, would a Tech2 be able to be used to retain/provide voltage during a battery change? It comes with a 110v power supply that plugs into the OBD cord.
I've seen ones that use the 12v receptacle and ones that use the OBD port. Which is best?
Also, would a Tech2 be able to be used to retain/provide voltage during a battery change? It comes with a 110v power supply that plugs into the OBD cord.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Tom, that day is fast approaching. Use the Tech-2 to view "Charging Info" in your BCM. It will give you start up state of charge and such. Mine was down in the thirty percent range the other day and is over three years old now, an ACDelco 48PS. It's replacement will be an ACDelco 48PG or 48HPG. In the 40 percent range, the motor fires as normal but in the 30s now she took a might longer than normal. I've barely driven it in the last thirty days and those USB phone adapters are still plugged in all over the place. Tires dropped down into the 30psi range, idled the motor while we aired them back up yesterday. Should take it for a drive on the highway to get her charged back up. Or mosey on over to the auto parts place and get a new one. Decisions, decisions...
In the past I have used the cigarette port, however I have had mixed results doing that it may be that right port has to be used as some are not always live when the key is off so I would assume a obd port type would be best but I have never tried one. I don't think a tech2 would provide that function the 12v adapter is used to keep the unit from loosing power if the car battery should loose power which it typically does when cycling the key especially with the clones the internal knock-off power module is not able to handle the voltage drop like a original one which has been discussed before.
Sam Harris
Supporting Member
I’ll have the negative terminal disconnected while I install my new HU one of these days.. So if I buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MPY0DNI?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image
Can I just disco the negative cable from the battery, and use the same battery to power the battery saver? I don’t see why not.
