New body old body fixup

[Linderov]

For what its worth, here's my story on an '02 Tahoe, 18 years, 220k miles of Michigan salt: we have rust and plenty of it. While the previous posts focus on the panels, the underbody is important to consider. My husband and sons do most of our maintenance but we have a shop to take care of bodywork. Those guys understand this Tahoe is not a beauty pagent contestant, and selectively use these less expensive fenders noted in this thread, as well as weld patches, quick spot work, etc, whatever makes sense. These panels have been perfect, sidenote.

While the cosmetics are good, the underbody is another matter. For example, last year we ran all new fuel and brake lines. We will tow light loads but not our 7000 pound boat, nope. We can see the shop does some remedial rust work underneath, but they say we are approaching the EOL for this truck. We would have to go under the truck and meticulously treat the rust in nooks and crannies. Not practical- everyone busy, and we don't have a lift. Who's gonna crawl under there to scrape off rust and spray rustoleum? Since the mechanicals are sound, we believe this more limited use of the Tahoe is safe. It's a great ride - smooth and nimble, looks great, super useful.

So I guess my tips are: check your lines, try to keep up with the undercarriage, do what makes sense for the cosmetics, and enjoy!!

 

[Tonyrodz]

For what its worth, here's my story on an '02 Tahoe, 18 years, 220k miles of Michigan salt: we have rust and plenty of it. While the previous posts focus on the panels, the underbody is important to consider. My husband and sons do most of our maintenance but we have a shop to take care of bodywork. Those guys understand this Tahoe is not a beauty pagent contestant, and selectively use these less expensive fenders noted in this thread, as well as weld patches, quick spot work, etc, whatever makes sense. These panels have been perfect, sidenote.

While the cosmetics are good, the underbody is another matter. For example, last year we ran all new fuel and brake lines. We will tow light loads but not our 7000 pound boat, nope. We can see the shop does some remedial rust work underneath, but they say we are approaching the EOL for this truck. We would have to go under the truck and meticulously treat the rust in nooks and crannies. Not practical- everyone busy, and we don't have a lift. Who's gonna crawl under there to scrape off rust and spray rustoleum? Since the mechanicals are sound, we believe this more limited use of the Tahoe is safe. It's a great ride - smooth and nimble, looks great, super useful.

So I guess my tips are: check your lines, try to keep up with the undercarriage, do what makes sense for the cosmetics, and enjoy!!

Rustoleum doesn't really do much, or even last imo. I'd treat underneath with some Por-15. I'm not sure if they have it in a spray can, but you do brush it on. Converts the rust.

 

[Linderov]

Rustoleum doesn't really do much, or even last imo. I'd treat underneath with some Por-15. I'm not sure if they have it in a spray can, but you do brush it on. Converts the rust.

Good to know! Thanks for the tip.

 

[shoplizard]

I would like to comment on an earlier post regarding the repair of the rust on your Denali, if it is like any of the others I have seen come into the shop I used to work in, you are wasting a lot of time and money attempting to make the vehicle a nice ride, in my opinion, it never will be and it will be very frustrating and costly trying to do it. I tried it when I lived in Utah where they use salt on the roads, it was a constant battle trying to keep up with rust.
I live in Montana now and own an 05 Tahoe LTZ and an 01 Silverado 2500 HD both I purchased many years ago from people who bought and drove them in the state. Each has over 150,000 miles on it and both get normal care and maintenance, both show no signs of rust and run fantastic.
These older GM SUV's are great rides and last a long time away from the rust belt, so if you are really serious about owning and driving a very nice vehicle, save your money, ditch your rust bucket and search other parts of the country for a much nicer vehicle. There are a lot out there, it might take some time and research, but you will be much happier with your ride.

 

[Rocket Man]

Imo it all depends on the amount of rust but one thing to consider is that rust is like a cancer that’s hard to stop once it’s started. You can probably buy time but it most likely will come back. How about some pictures of the rusted areas?

 

[George B]

We still don't know what amount of rust we are talking about. Any pics of the truck??

 

[theangrynortherne]

If I had to choose between your options--In my opinion it's much cheaper to fix a motor then it is to fix a rotted body--or body work. So if it was me I'd buy a vehicle with a blown motor or trans with a good body. Even one with a ratty interior wouldn't be a bad job. How's your interior?

Hi my interior is pretty good I've cleaned it up replaced the carpet and am currently working on replacing leather and buttons and little details like that.

 

[theangrynortherne]

How bad is the rust?

We bought our ‘07 back in 2014 with rust holes already forming in the fenders (I should have fixed it then!). Last summer I finally ground away all the rust using a couple 3M abrasive discs (made some major holes) and applied rust converter/sealer to the areas. Simply put fender flares over the nasty fenders and it looks great now.

The doors have a few holes as well which I did the same process and simply used Bondo on it (I don’t have a welder) and I’ll be spraying the lower part of the doors with Rubberized undercoating to match the front end.

I believe I have deterred the rust on the body for quite some time with this simple method.

How long does a fix like that last? I have a couple holes starting on the rear wheel wells and the rockers obviously. I'll work on getting some pics posted

 

[theangrynortherne]

We still don't know what amount of rust we are talking about. Any pics of the truck??

Hi ill work on getting some pics up. I've never posted pics before so I'm not sure how to do it but ill ask my kids

 

[theangrynortherne]

I would like to comment on an earlier post regarding the repair of the rust on your Denali, if it is like any of the others I have seen come into the shop I used to work in, you are wasting a lot of time and money attempting to make the vehicle a nice ride, in my opinion, it never will be and it will be very frustrating and costly trying to do it. I tried it when I lived in Utah where they use salt on the roads, it was a constant battle trying to keep up with rust.
I live in Montana now and own an 05 Tahoe LTZ and an 01 Silverado 2500 HD both I purchased many years ago from people who bought and drove them in the state. Each has over 150,000 miles on it and both get normal care and maintenance, both show no signs of rust and run fantastic.
These older GM SUV's are great rides and last a long time away from the rust belt, so if you are really serious about owning and driving a very nice vehicle, save your money, ditch your rust bucket and search other parts of the country for a much nicer vehicle. There are a lot out there, it might take some time and research, but you will be much happier with your ride.

Hi thanks for the reply. I've thought about it for sure. I've got ocd when it comes to my ride and it took me a long time to save the money to buy my denali cash in hand. That body style is my dream ride. They are going for an insane amount of money these days. Here in michigan guys are selling 2000 and 2001 nbs style rides with 250k plus miles lots of rust tore up interior and are getting $5000 plus for them. That is so overpriced I don't even know where to begin. I would love to find a low mileage rust free denali xl 2006 from down south but not for $12k. And these guys that get on here talking about how they picked something up for 500 are full of shit or lucky its not normal.