New Here and Have Some Issues

[ORYukon]

Hello, I just found this forum and signed up. A few days ago I bought a 2003 Yukon SLT with the 5.3 and four wheel drive with a few minor issues and I'm looking for some guidance in fixing the issues. Any help will be appreciated. As for actually doing the work, I have no problem with that. I just don't have much experience with these SUVs.

Issue 1. The volt gauge is showing 19+ volts. Got the battery, starting, and charging systems checked, and it is working properly at around 14 volts. Just the gauge is being optimistic.

Issue 2. The speedometer at first was randomly not showing speed or would go no farther than 10mph. It is now stuck at 90mph when sitting still, even while parked and with key removed. It will then move upwards to, and past, 120mph while accelerating. (Thank god for gps speedometer apps available on my phone.) No warning lights are coming up on the dash either. The trips and odometer are working perfectly fine also.

Issue 3. The rear air system has no heat, even when I crank the heat for both the driver and the front passenger. It blows cold air no matter what, and pretty damn well too. The fan speed works perfectly fine. I just don't have control over the temp.

Issue 4. The parking brake does not work. My first guess is gonna be that it's just out of adjustment and needs an adjustment. That shouldn't really be a problem. Just looking for help on the other issues, unless of course there is something special I need to know about the brakes on these.

Other than that, haven't noticed anything else, yet (keeping fingers crossed that these are the only issues). The truck has 215,000 miles and is mechanically in great condition. No misfires, no unusual (or unwanted) noises, trans hasn't missed a beat (or a gear), and all electronics (except those listed) work. Cosmetically, for the amount of mileage, it's also in great shape. Some paint chips (but it still shines), the carpet has some stains (nothing a little elbow grease can't fix), and even the leather isn't cracked. The previous owners took care of this thing.

As for me and my skills, I use to work at an independent shop that mainly worked on Hondas and others like them. I have also recently brought back to life a 1987 Dodge Raider (rebadged Mitsubishi Montero) that sat for 15yrs and did all the work myself. So I'm not afraid to do the work, just not really experienced with these trucks.

Thanks in advice guys! And I'll return the favor when I can!

 

[#1taho]

Welcome. Sounds like you have stepper motor problems on the cluster. Common problem. EBrake could be an adjustment. A good inspection will tell you for sure. I had my adjuster sieze up on my and on my other truck the lining fell off.
Let's see your ride. We love pics. Good luck

 

[ORYukon]

Ok cool, thanks! Are those replacable one by one or will this require a whole new cluster? Fairly easy I hope.

What about the rear air? I live in the Portland area of Oregon and have a kid due in February. I'd like to have the heat working by then.

As for pics, I'll load a few up later.

Thanks again!

 

[#1taho]

Ok cool, thanks! Are those replacable one by one or will this require a whole new cluster? Fairly easy I hope.

What about the rear air? I live in the Portland area of Oregon and have a kid due in February. I'd like to have the heat working by then.

As for pics, I'll load a few up later.

Thanks again!

The rear air I am sure is a blend door actuator. Some where in the forum the is a posting. They also go in the front. But that's another story.
The stepper motors can be done one by one. eBay has kits on sale all the time and YouTube has a few good videos on how to do them and tools needed and a few write ups here.

Hope this helps.

Sorry there is a way to post links but I still haven't figured it out.

 

[ORYukon]

Alright cool. Thanks again.

 

[#1taho]

Good looking truck. Shouldn't take much to get it going 100%

 

[kwOH]

Check out CircuitBoardMedics.com, for the instrument cluster, did all my stepper motors and LEDs for like $180. & for the rear air, mine was blowing cold in the winter with the heat on last year, i changed a little module under the panel on the rear passenger side, i think it was about $50 on amazon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ORYukon]

Thanks, I'm liking it so far. The gauges seemed to have worked themselves out for now. Haven't had a chance to play with the rear air yet though. I think it's gonna be a very reliable truck for me and my growing family. Got some work to do first on the red truck in those pics. That's the one I brought back to life. It's got a few more serious issues, like a badly leaking head gasket...

 

[ORYukon]

So issues number 1 and 2 are now fixed. Found it to be really easy to get the cluster out. And apparently didn't do to bad on the soldering (since all the stepper motors are working correctly) considering I have only done it like 2 or 3 times before.

 

[Larryjb]

I just got my Tahoe this summer, and the parking brake didn't work either. It was seized. The odd thing is that it had been serviced before, but the mechanic only serviced one side. The other side was seized, and probably caused the parking shoes on the good side to wear exceedingly quickly.

Anyway, it wasn't too bad to service. It just took a little time, and a few tricks. I wrote what I did, including some of the pitfalls I ran into so you don't have to figure them out yourself:

http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/parking-brake-service.83985/





As for your seats, I got the cleaner and conditioner from The Chemical Guys. That is great stuff!

If your steering seems a little loose, it may be time for new tie-rods, pitman arm, and idler arm. From what I've read on this site, it seems very common for those to go. Also, inspect the exhaust manifold bolts. They seem to pop off like shirt buttons. I'm missing two. I've already installed a Kral kit for the front one. I have the dit for the rear drivers, but that's going to have to wait for awhile. It looks like I'll have to drop the drive shaft and do it from underneath. I have no idea how Kral thinks it is possible to do the rear drivers from above...

I looked at my plugs this last weekend, just to make sure I could remove them, but I also had a miss in cool wet weather. They are the old style double platinum, but the gap was slightly over .060". I re-gapped them to about 0.058, use a little dielectric grease on the boots, and it's smooth running again.

Enjoy!

Larry