New hydroboost to master cylinder question

[cofferson]

Hi everyone! First post here, first GM vehicle, and first hydroboost vehicle. I have a 2008 Suburban 2500 that I haven't been able to drive much since purchasing because of brake lock up issues. Long story short, I'm at the point of replacing the hydroboost and master cylinder. I purchased a Bosch hydroboost and an AC Delco master cylinder. When I went to install, I learned that hydroboosters aren't adjustable push rod like a typical vacuum booster is. When I push the MC up to the booster, the pushrod bottoms out before the flanges meet. The gap is ~1.4mm which means when I clamp it down with the nuts, it will depress the MC that much. At this point I just don't know what to do with it to make sure I don't have more brake issues when putting this together.

Thanks!

 

[j91z28d1]

I've never messed with a hydro boost on our trucks. but have other stuff. are you sure there's no adjustments anywhere? even on the pedal side?

cause it does really need a way to adjust it. from my experience if you bolt that together with the master dispreased it will cause issues as you drive it.

 

[rdezs]

Double check your part numbers for the application.

 

[rdezs]

A common issue with dragging brakes originates with the OEM flexible brake lines to the calipers. They're rubber, and they start disintegrating on the inside. The pieces end up in the caliper causing what you describe. Aftermarket ones are available that are lined with PTFE on the inside. Or pick up some nice aftermarket stainless steel lines, also lined with PTFE on the inside. And don't forget the two flexible hoses in the rear that go down to the differential.

 

[j91z28d1]

A common issue with dragging brakes originates with the OEM flexible brake lines to the calipers. They're rubber, and they start disintegrating on the inside. The pieces end up in the caliper causing what you describe. Aftermarket ones are available that are lined with PTFE on the inside. Or pick up some nice aftermarket stainless steel lines, also lined with PTFE on the inside. And don't forget the two flexible hoses in the rear that go down to the differential.

Yes, but also I can't 100% tell you if you install a new master with the shaft adjusted a bit to long so that it acts like the brakes are slightly applied. it might not drag for the first few minutes but the more you drive it. they will slowly apply and not release. once left to cool for a few hours they will release and the apply again. I've seen it a few times over the years at work. tow it back, shorted the shaft and alls good.

you don't seem it much in cars because the application is specific, so just bolting on a new master is fine 99% of the time. but my job we have a some old equipment and everything is always different. I've seen it over looked a few times and unit left with locked up brakes an hour after a brake job like wtf?

brakes need some free play at the top of the pedal travel to work. right.

 

[rdezs]

I'd make sure the hydroboost and the master cylinder are both the correct part numbers for the application.