New member to forum -- searching for my 07-14 Tahoe/Yukon

[StrkAliteN]

I have an ‘07 Yukon that I bought new. The leather looks close to new (Dove Grey, I think the factory called it Titanium, not sure though), the dash has no cracks, washed it today and it looks really fabulous.

Having said that, the earlier models (other than the Denali’s) are not as desirable mechanically, as they came with a number of parts that were upgraded in later years that can have a pretty big effect on the cost of repairs.

I have come to the conclusion that the most desirable yers in this series is the ‘12 and ‘13 (probably outside your budget unless you got really lucky).

If you find a nice ‘07-‘09, a really detailed maintenance history needs to be a priority. The AFM system in these years was the weakest, so regular oil changes is an imperative. Another thing (somewhat related to AFM) in the non-Denali 5.3’s in this year range is to see if the AFM oil consumption TSB has been accomplished. Specically, knowing the Bank 1 (driver’s side) valve cover was replaced with the upgraded unit (Goggle the AFM oil consumption TSB and you can read about it), pretty important.

The ‘07 was a transition year, so a few things are different on it than even like the ‘08’s. Things like how fuel pressure is regulated is different in the ‘07 than later models, with the ‘07 using the ‘05 and ‘06 design, etc.

Anyway, if you get closer and see something that catches your eye, post it up and we can tear it apart….

"If you find a nice ‘07-‘09, a really detailed maintenance history needs to be a priority. The AFM system in these years was the weakest, so regular oil changes is an imperative. Another thing (somewhat related to AFM) in the non-Denali 5.3’s in this year range is to see if the AFM oil consumption TSB has been accomplished. Specically, knowing the Bank 1 (driver’s side) valve cover was replaced with the upgraded unit (Goggle the AFM oil consumption TSB and you can read about it), pretty important."

I have had my 2007 SLT Yukon since new and have done nothing about this afm supposed problem. My does not burn oil or any problem I ever noticed.

Do I need to look into this procedure you mentioned and I quoted ?

are dealerships doing that free via a recall fix ?

Not sure I even need it 15 years after the fact ??

 

[wsteele]

I have had my 2007 SLT Yukon since new and have done nothing about this afm supposed problem. My does not burn oil or any problem I ever noticed.

Do I need to look into this procedure you mentioned and I quoted ?

are dealerships doing that free via a recall fix ?

Not sure I even need it 15 years after the fact ??

If you aren't using any oil, you don't need the TSB done. I still would make sure I had the updated valve cover on the drivers side, and I would probably install a catch can (so I could monitor things going forward and catch any small amount of oil that might be getting pushed into the intake).

I think if I were in your position, I would just keep maintaining it and think about other things...

 

[Miami-Dade]

I have had my 2007 SLT Yukon since new and have done nothing about this afm supposed problem. My does not burn oil or any problem I ever noticed.

Do I need to look into this procedure you mentioned and I quoted ?

are dealerships doing that free via a recall fix ?

Not sure I even need it 15 years after the fact ??

In your case I would NOT touch a single thing! Do not even think about it like wsteele said. Just keep on trucking.

Out of curiosity how many miles on your Yukon?

 

[StrkAliteN]

In your case I would NOT touch a single thing! Do not even think about it like wsteele said. Just keep on trucking.

Out of curiosity how many miles on your Yukon?

70K miles. I have a 2nd car that I drive also. The Yukon is for all the local shorty trips around town or the long comfy road trips.

The little shit box Camry is for all the 30-40-50 mile trips. I think it has around 85k miles on it ( an '08 Camry LE )

 

[wsteele]

70K miles. I have a 2nd car that I drive also. The Yukon is for all the local shorty trips around town or the long comfy road trips.

The little shit box Camry is for all the 30-40-50 mile trips. I think it has around 85k miles on it ( an '08 Camry LE )

My Yukon didn't start really using any appreciable oil between changes until about where yours is at mileage wise. Any shop I talked to just said, "don't worry about it", when I questioned the slowly rising consumption levels. I contemplated a leak down test (but never got around to doing it, typical).

At about 90K, I had developed a very slight low idle miss. I was busy moving households, but it bugged me enough I dropped the truck off at the dealership during a regular oil change visit and told my guy there about the miss

They pulled the plugs and number 7 was litterally unrecognizable as a spark plug, completely enclosed in carbon buildup. They started the TSB process and when they determined they couldn’t free the rings up, told me I would need new pistons and rings. GM covered the parts and fluids and part of the labor, so I got the new rings and pistons, along with the other elements of the TSB for under $2K all in. My dealer said GM would not have covered that cost outside 100K miles.

I think my engine was a worst case scenario for this issue as the first 60K miles of its life, I used it to tow a heavy enclosed trailer all around the west (lots of mountains). I was told high sustained engine RPM was what caused so much oil being introduced into the top and bottom of the rings, causing them to stick, which my truck definitely had throughout it’s early life.

I think a 2007-09 truck that hasn’t done a lot of heavy towing (or hot rodding) and also has been well maintained, likely will never see these issues, especially if that original driver’s side valve cover is replaced.

 

[StrkAliteN]

My Yukon didn't start really using any appreciable oil between changes until about where yours is at mileage wise. Any shop I talked to just said, "don't worry about it", when I questioned the slowly rising consumption levels. I contemplated a leak down test (but never got around to doing it, typical).

At about 90K, I had developed a very slight low idle miss. I was busy moving households, but it bugged me enough I dropped the truck off at the dealership during a regular oil change visit and told my guy there about the miss

They pulled the plugs and number 7 was litterally unrecognizable as a spark plug, completely enclosed in carbon buildup. They started the TSB process and when they determined they couldn’t free the rings up, told me I would need new pistons and rings. GM covered the parts and fluids and part of the labor, so I got the new rings and pistons, along with the other elements of the TSB for under $2K all in. My dealer said GM would not have covered that cost outside 100K miles.

I think my engine was a worst case scenario for this issue as the first 60K miles of its life, I used it to tow a heavy enclosed trailer all around the west (lots of mountains). I was told high sustained engine RPM was what caused so much oil being introduced into the top and bottom of the rings, causing them to stick, which my truck definitely had throughout it’s early life.

I think a 2007-09 truck that hasn’t done a lot of heavy towing (or hot rodding) and also has been well maintained, likely will never see these issues, especially if that original driver’s side valve cover is replaced.

all good info ( thank you )

My Yukon has led a well rested and well maintained life. I swapped the 8 sparkplugs and 8 spark plug wires at around the 60K mark and the ones I replaced - looked near as good as the 8 new ones I put in ( bought OEM Delco GM parts off Amazon for pretty cheap )

Here in about 18 months when I sell my Seattle house and move back to Ohio ( towing a 20' enclosed trailer for around 3k miles over a few mountain passes ) I will discover how well rested and ready to work she is.

 

[iamdub]

all good info ( thank you )

My Yukon has led a well rested and well maintained life. I swapped the 8 sparkplugs and 8 spark plug wires at around the 60K mark and the ones I replaced - looked near as good as the 8 new ones I put in ( bought OEM Delco GM parts off Amazon for pretty cheap )

Here in about 18 months when I sell my Seattle house and move back to Ohio ( towing a 20' enclosed trailer for around 3k miles over a few mountain passes ) I will discover how well rested and ready to work she is.

Be wary of them cheap "OEM Delco" plugs! Amazon and ebay have lots of counterfeits floating around that have been known to (at best) wear very quickly or (at worst) fall apart and cause major engine damage.

Engine load, and not only high RPM will affect oil consumption. This is something with which you're far better off to take proactive and not reactive measures. Especially with an '07, having a well-rested life is probably the only thing keeping it in that problem-free minority. I'd get the updated driver side cover and a catch can at the very least as cheap insurance.

 

[wsteele]

Be wary of them cheap "OEM Delco" plugs! Amazon and ebay have lots of counterfeits floating around that have been known to (at best) wear very quickly or (at worst) fall apart and cause major engine damage.

Engine load, and not only high RPM will affect oil consumption. This is something with which you're far better off to take proactive and not reactive measures. Especially with an '07, having a well-rested life is probably the only thing keeping it in that problem-free minority. I'd get the updated driver side cover and a catch can at the very least as cheap insurance.

Totally agree. The updated driver's side valve cover installed before you trip would be a mandatory on my list. The other thing they do in the TSB process (if the piston/ring replacement is warranted), is to install the AFM pressure relief valve deflector.

If you ever need to drop the pan (like a pan gasket leak, etc.), definitely install that AFM pressure relief valve deflector. I wouldn't do it unless the pan was coming down for another reason, but once I had that pan down, the deflector would go on.

 

[iamdub]

Totally agree. The updated driver's side valve cover installed before you trip would be a mandatory on my list. The other thing they do in the TSB process (if the piston/ring replacement is warranted), is to install the AFM pressure relief valve deflector.

If you ever need to drop the pan (like a pan gasket leak, etc.), definitely install that AFM pressure relief valve deflector. I wouldn't do it unless the pan was coming down for another reason, but once I had that pan down, the deflector would go on.

Absolutely. That trip across the country while pulling a trailer will be nothing but having the engine under load. I'm not much of a gambler, but I'd bet that he'd notice a sharp increase in oil consumption on this trip.

I'd just spend the $60 and disable AFM. That valve isn't an issue with no AFM. For me, disabling AFM would be a very close second step after getting the updated cover and catch can. Being driven easily is what's kept this engine from drinking it's own blood. But, even that will only get you so far and it sounds like it's at the mileage where the obligatory first steps should be taken. At this mileage, AFM isn't gonna return enough MPG to make up for the expense and hassle of dropping the pan.

@StrkAliteN, you got 70K+ reliable miles out of it as-is. IMO, it's time to invest ~$200 in major steps for prevention.

 

[wsteele]

Absolutely. That trip across the country while pulling a trailer will be nothing but having the engine under load. I'm not much of a gambler, but I'd bet that he'd notice a sharp increase in oil consumption on this trip.

I'd just spend the $60 and disable AFM. That valve isn't an issue with no AFM. For me, disabling AFM would be a very close second step after getting the updated cover and catch can. Being driven easily is what's kept this engine from drinking it's own blood. But, even that will only get you so far and it sounds like it's at the mileage where the obligatory first steps should be taken. At this mileage, AFM isn't gonna return enough MPG to make up for the expense and hassle of dropping the pan.

@StrkAliteN, you got 70K+ reliable miles out of it as-is. IMO, it's time to invest ~$200 in major steps for prevention.

Actually, that is a good point, just shutting down AFM would solve the problem pretty painlessly.