BREAKING: GM is officially recalling the L87

[jfoj]

I have not heard that the P0016 was a common finding. The problem is if this is a Pending code, it will not trigger the SES/CEL/MIL and therefore you must scan for codes.

But maybe this was a Go/No Go Red Herring put out to hopefully appease the NHTSA folks?

Dang, 28,102 complaints related to the engine, almost 50% of the complaints had loss of propulsion i.e. more than likely failed engines. I have to assume the 28,102 complaints were all major engine repairs or replacements as well. Something tells me this may be under reported as well.

$$$$$ and way to piss the customers off the why this has been handled.

 

[jfoj]

Yes, all the 'survivors' should be entitled to extended warranty IMO. I think that is a fair compromise... but that would technically signal a "hey we are not sure about this fix" and may not meet NHTSA recall requirements if done as part of the recall. However, if that extended warranty was in response to a lawsuit or done as a "customer satisfaction" program, that would decouple it from NHTSA investigation.



I hope you are right but I am seeing that cranks/connecting rod manufacturing improvements were done on or before June 1, 2024, so any crank/rod made after June 1st is safe... now we don't know if your engine has that crank or rod.

'A series of crankshaft and connecting rod manufacturing improvements implemented on or before June 1, 2024, addressed contamination and quality issues.'

Based on the production dates in listed on the NHTSA 25V274 cutting off at May 31, 2024, my vehicle build month was August 2024 so I was 8+ weeks beyond the cut off and do not expect to be impacted by the Recall.

But I have the DFM/Lifter issue to look forward to, I would also have the valve body problems to look forward to as well, but I am proactively going to address the valve body myself before it becomes a problem.

Jesus what we all need to do just go leave the property these days!

 

[viven44]

DELETED

 

[viven44]

HD truck mechanic and popular mechanic's opinion

 

[DunzoDenali]

I called my dealer this AM and they confirmed that my engine was on the bad list.. I said what now? The service guy responded that he did not know and that they did not have clear direction from GM. He said that they had been originally been directed to change the oil wait but now that plan was being scrapped.. Oh boy

Was told the same thing by my dealer. No plan from GM and insufficient communication to dealers. My VIN is covered and described as "No Remedy"

 

[Vladimir2306]

Would be interesting to see some results from folks using 0w20 in less than ideal conditions. Gotta be some out there.

I personally use 0-20 oil in less than ideal conditions. I have driven 100k miles on 0-20 oil in a K2 Tahoe with a 6.2 engine, and now I have 75k miles on a 2022 GMC Yukon with a 6.2 engine. My conditions are not ideal at all, I live in a metropolitan area in Russia, the car is used for Home-Work-Home events in traffic jams and congestion.
I don't change the oil early, but change it according to the regulations, every 7500 miles.
I always warm up the engine in winter for at least 10 minutes. And in summer for at least 1-2 minutes after a long parking.
I have heavy traffic in the city with traffic jams, and on the highways I drive very fast at a speed of 90-110 miles per hour.
Plus I often drive a heavy trailer.
And with all these conditions I have no problems with the cars.

 

[blanchard7684]

Safety Recall Report

Dang good find.

The two issues could have combined or been separate. Debris explains the early failures. The crankshaft defect explains the failures at higher mileage. If both defects were present it explains the ones that failed leaving the dealer lot or before the first oil change.

5.3 is made in Canada plant and 6.2 is made in Tonawanda NY plant. So this can explain the difference between the engine's failure rates.

The out of spec crankshaft is interesting as I suspected a possible tolerance stacking issue was possibly afoot. This sounds like a crankshaft had journals that were not in spec dimensionally. Could create a low clearance or a high clearance issue. In either case I can see 0w40 as a stop gap measure.

However the recall is changing the oil spec on all engines in this model year range. It is like they suspect the crankshaft issue is in higher numbers than the recall report stipulates.

And P0016 is a huge mystery.

 

[jfoj]

A few interesting articles.

But now I worry about the replacement 6.2l engines. How many may have "new" from the assembly line, how many are "reman" units? We have seen a number of replacements fail in short order.

The problem with either "new" or "reman" units, if new, what was the build date? I would be getting up under the vehicle to find the engine tag on the rear of the drivers side cylinder head to find the build date. If a "reman" I assume there is a tag on the driver side cylinder head with some date related info as well. Regarding the "reman" units, if a bearing is spun, at a minimum the crank would likely need to be replaced due to heat and stress damage, so are they putting the same questionable cranks in "reman" units? Is the "reman" facility even looking at the new cranks in any way, I doubt it because the "reman" group might have found this crank related problem a while ago.

Somehow, someone forgot how to QA parts and assemblies and build engines.

Crank Polishing

More Info About Recall and Where/Who Made Crankshafts

 

[Aggie76]

That's a tough one. Hopefully you can garage the truck most of the time. They make silicon oil pan heaters that you can stick on the bottom of the oil pan and plug in to warm the oil. Then the question is where you can park when you are out are 120 Volt power outlets available for plugging in? I know some Northern areas this is common.

I would plan on oil changes in the 3k mile range running in the Winter months. One thing I try to do with my vehicles even though I am not it the super cold area, is usually before the cold temps roll in, change the oil if over 1000 miles so I start the Winter out with fresh oil, so it has more of a window to last before getting put to death by fuel and water vapor.

When possible plan trips that are not too short, but if you get somewhere you may not stay long and it is safe, you might leave the engine running after you have driven say the 4-8 miles. At this point the engine oil has warmed up a bit, but not fully and allowing the then engine to idle a while may be better than shutting off and allowing the oil to cool down again. Kind of a judgement call based on how far you had driven, if there is no plug in and if you could safely allow the car to idle. I cannot recall if you can lock these vehicles with the engine running and if you can does the engine turn off automatically after 15 minutes?

On my 2005 Yukon Denali with the 6.0l, I take the dogs with me in the Summer and lock the car with the A/C on and let it idle for a while, but the oil is already warmed up, but with 275,000 on that 6.0l every additional minute or a mile is a bonus from my point of view!

Luckily we do have a heated garage which I keep at 40 degrees. I used those silicon pads on my kid's cars while they lived at home with good results. Before I retired my work place had power outlets at every parking space which were well used by everyone. We've got the mfr engine block heater, carry a cold-rated extension cord and try to find a connection whenever we travel. Plus when it gets below zero she does leave the engine running on short in town trips. We do the same with our dog when he's with us. Appreciate the oil change advice about pre-winter change and will incorporate that too. Just ordered a AFM/DFM Disabler as well. We're at 12,500 now with our '24 so hoping it lasts near that 200k mileage like our '15 did.

 

[Vladimir2306]

That's a tough one. Hopefully you can garage the truck most of the time. They make silicon oil pan heaters that you can stick on the bottom of the oil pan and plug in to warm the oil. Then the question is where you can park when you are out are 120 Volt power outlets available for plugging in? I know some Northern areas this is common.

I would plan on oil changes in the 3k mile range running in the Winter months. One thing I try to do with my vehicles even though I am not it the super cold area, is usually before the cold temps roll in, change the oil if over 1000 miles so I start the Winter out with fresh oil, so it has more of a window to last before getting put to death by fuel and water vapor.

When possible plan trips that are not too short, but if you get somewhere you may not stay long and it is safe, you might leave the engine running after you have driven say the 4-8 miles. At this point the engine oil has warmed up a bit, but not fully and allowing the then engine to idle a while may be better than shutting off and allowing the oil to cool down again. Kind of a judgement call based on how far you had driven, if there is no plug in and if you could safely allow the car to idle. I cannot recall if you can lock these vehicles with the engine running and if you can does the engine turn off automatically after 15 minutes?

On my 2005 Yukon Denali with the 6.0l, I take the dogs with me in the Summer and lock the car with the A/C on and let it idle for a while, but the oil is already warmed up, but with 275,000 on that 6.0l every additional minute or a mile is a bonus from my point of view!

By the way, you constantly write to everyone here about changing the oil before the scheduled period. I have a question, on what basis do you give such advice? Do you have an oil analysis that it degrades so much and cannot be used for 7500 miles? I have one. We have a lot of oil analyses online, including 0-20, at a mileage of 5-6 thousand miles, it is practically like new in condition.
And at 7500 miles it also has values within the normal range. I'll tell you even more, here is the analysis of Oil 0-20 Mobil1, on a Ford Focus. The car drove 19 thousand km on this oil, and this is almost 12 thousand miles. And there it is also within the normal range for all indicators except Alkalinity.
Here is the analysis through translation, it can be translated into English.
So there is no point in changing the oil earlier than the prescribed 7,500 mile interval.