I was thinking, "looks pretty good, pretty normal to me" until I saw the third photo. I don't like how the factory waxy coating is peeling away, exposing the metal underneath. At the very least, I would have that area thoroughly cleaned up, and protected with POR15. And, also fluid film any cavity you can access. Be interested to hear what the professional company has to say.
New Tahoe owner, 2015 LTZ...some questions....
- Thread starter ReaperHWK
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Joseph Garcia
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Welcome to the Forum from NH.
Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.
I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.
Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.
I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.
PG01
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Since gm has been wax coating their frames, the stuff has been peeling off.... especially in the salty northern climates.........
Danny3737
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How ‘bout some pics of your ride?
Prospect62
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Looks like a pretty typical northeast undercarriage. As I'm sure you know, up in these parts these things start rusting on the dealer lots and never really stop until they hit the junkyards. Everything you're seeing under there is just surface rust though, essentially. This is what you get when you buy a used northeast vehicle.
And yes, whatever GM is coating these frames with does tend to start peeling off. I guess the jury is still out on whether or not it will be better at preserving the frame than plain 'ol black paint.
My 2016 Suburban with 69,000 miles on it was originally registered in Connecticut and now I have it in Central New York State. It looks pretty comparable to yours. Once it's to that point there's really nothing practical you can do to make it better. If you want to take a "wire wheel" and POR15 to it or have someone sandblast and re-coat the undercarriage that's your prerogative but that's A LOT of time and effort for a truck that's probably a bit more than half way through it's useful life already. Unless you mean just hit the rusty spots, in that case it may be worth it.
You're kind of beyond the point of spending money on professional rust proofing I think. As suggested (and what I have done) is buy a few cans of fluid film black and hit every exposed surface with it every fall. I go nuts with that stuff and it seems to work quite well. It ain't pretty but it protects the surfaces you put it on. Things like the control arms, differential cover, hitch I will scuff up and hit with some semi-gloss Rustoleum. Everything else exposed gets Fluid Film, including whatever body crevices I can get the needle into.
Good luck and I really wouldn't sweat it too much. Keep the truck rinsed off in the winter and get under there a few times a summer and clean and Fluid Film stuff and you'll be fine.
And yes, whatever GM is coating these frames with does tend to start peeling off. I guess the jury is still out on whether or not it will be better at preserving the frame than plain 'ol black paint.
My 2016 Suburban with 69,000 miles on it was originally registered in Connecticut and now I have it in Central New York State. It looks pretty comparable to yours. Once it's to that point there's really nothing practical you can do to make it better. If you want to take a "wire wheel" and POR15 to it or have someone sandblast and re-coat the undercarriage that's your prerogative but that's A LOT of time and effort for a truck that's probably a bit more than half way through it's useful life already. Unless you mean just hit the rusty spots, in that case it may be worth it.
You're kind of beyond the point of spending money on professional rust proofing I think. As suggested (and what I have done) is buy a few cans of fluid film black and hit every exposed surface with it every fall. I go nuts with that stuff and it seems to work quite well. It ain't pretty but it protects the surfaces you put it on. Things like the control arms, differential cover, hitch I will scuff up and hit with some semi-gloss Rustoleum. Everything else exposed gets Fluid Film, including whatever body crevices I can get the needle into.
Good luck and I really wouldn't sweat it too much. Keep the truck rinsed off in the winter and get under there a few times a summer and clean and Fluid Film stuff and you'll be fine.
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ReaperHWK
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Thanks all. I tend to keep vehicles a LONG time my 2006 f150 I bought new and is still on the road. I plan to have his Tahoe for at least 10 years more. So therefore I don’t mind doing the extra stuff to make it last.
I’ll see what the place has to say about making it last longer. If it’s not an arm and a leg maybe I’ll get it fixed up.
here’s a pic Taking the kids camping so it’s a little dirty.
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I’ll see what the place has to say about making it last longer. If it’s not an arm and a leg maybe I’ll get it fixed up.
here’s a pic Taking the kids camping so it’s a little dirty.
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swathdiver
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Most of it looks more like dirt than rust, save for the crossmember above the spare. Surface rust actually protect the metal, but rot is no good. We have a few cars that spent many years up north and the rust hasn't gotten any worse since coming down south.
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ReaperHWK
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ReaperHWK
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I can’t get pics to work on this forum. I must be a tool. Here is the Tahoe Trying again.
Welcome from Oregon! For pics, just hit the blue button at the bottom that says “upload a file”. But please for the love of god no more Fords! Kidding. The Tahoe looks awesome. Make sure to get 2-3 quotes on the rust and get the scope of work in writing. That kind of work tends to have wildly varying procedures and prices.
