New-to-me 02 Tahoe with some problems

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Potch

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Hi everyone. I'm fairly new to the forum and this is my first real post.


I purchased a 2002 Tahoe LS back in February 2017 and recently had some problems arising.

It started with a metal on metal sound coming from what I thought was my front driver side wheel. Everything I looked up sounded like the wheel bearing is wearing out. Recently, I started to think it might be the rear driver side wheel. It's hard to pinpoint, could be both. I drove on it with the noise for awhile thinking it was a bent dust shield as I had just purchased new tires.

Recently, however, the noise has increased in frequency and there is now a wailing noise as the vehicle is in motion. Like a fast, "wawawawa" that increases or decreases with speed.

In addition to the new noise, whenever I'm coming to a stop, there is a fairly loud and deep grinding noise and the vehicle shakes quite a bit. I don't feel the shaking in the brake pedal or the steering wheel so much. I primarily notice that my side mirror shakes a lot.

I'm about to go pull the wheels and see if I can figure out what it is. But, I wanted to reach out to the community to see if anyone is familiar with the symptoms.


Thanks in advance for all of your help. I've already learned a lot from reading through old threads and you all seems like a good bunch of people.

P



Vehicle specs & history:
2002 Tahoe LS, 4wd, 5.3 Vortec, 134.5 k miles
Purchased from original owner who kept it garaged and regularly changed fluids. He said he never had to replace anything except for rebuilding the transmission.
 

HiHoeSilver

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Hi everyone. I'm fairly new to the forum and this is my first real post.


I purchased a 2002 Tahoe LS back in February 2017 and recently had some problems arising.

It started with a metal on metal sound coming from what I thought was my front driver side wheel. Everything I looked up sounded like the wheel bearing is wearing out. Recently, I started to think it might be the rear driver side wheel. It's hard to pinpoint, could be both. I drove on it with the noise for awhile thinking it was a bent dust shield as I had just purchased new tires.

Recently, however, the noise has increased in frequency and there is now a wailing noise as the vehicle is in motion. Like a fast, "wawawawa" that increases or decreases with speed.

In addition to the new noise, whenever I'm coming to a stop, there is a fairly loud and deep grinding noise and the vehicle shakes quite a bit. I don't feel the shaking in the brake pedal or the steering wheel so much. I primarily notice that my side mirror shakes a lot.

I'm about to go pull the wheels and see if I can figure out what it is. But, I wanted to reach out to the community to see if anyone is familiar with the symptoms.


Thanks in advance for all of your help. I've already learned a lot from reading through old threads and you all seems like a good bunch of people.

P



Vehicle specs & history:
2002 Tahoe LS, 4wd, 5.3 Vortec, 134.5 k miles
Purchased from original owner who kept it garaged and regularly changed fluids. He said he never had to replace anything except for rebuilding the transmission.

Sounds like hub /bearing assy. And maybe a brake job. When you lift it up, check the wheel for play 12-6 to ID a bad bearing. Spin the wheel and look /listen for your source of grinding. Those things can get awfully noisy when they're dying.
 

D is for DENALI

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Wawa noise could be the new tires, not inflated properly or they are aggressive tread and make noise at speed..

The noise sounds like the brake squealer is hitting the rotor(need pads before rotors are toast) or the wheel hub is starting cease.. when they don't roll smooth they will make a wirrrr noise when they are going bad...

Front wheel hub assemblies with sensors, $125total from rockauto

Front brakes $30

Start there and see if it gos away and while the wheels are off straight3n out the dust shields and hit up the grease joints.
 

Chubbs

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Vehicle specs & history:
2002 Tahoe LS, 4wd, 5.3 Vortec, 134.5 k miles
Purchased from original owner who kept it garaged and regularly changed fluids. He said he never had to replace anything except for rebuilding the transmission.

You might want to make an examination before the parts @ fault destroy whatever is adjoining; sounds pretty bad.

I have a 4WD too & my truck has done the same thing you have described both times that I have switched into AUtO4wd mode; it doesn't manifest itself in my day-to-day 2WD'ing.

Is this noise/interference you are experiencing consistent? Has it always been consistent & progressively gotten worse? Is this truck for certain in 2WD mode? If the TC endcoder motor sensor goes out it can randomly switch between 2WD & 4WD modes from what I have read. When you are hearing this noise/disturbance can you feel the vehicle slow down like something is clamping down on the driveshaft? Sensation like the vehicle is braking before you actually apply the brakes? Maybe dive or pull to 1 specific side?

If you would, do as suggested before where you lift the front tires up from the ground and give each 1 a good back&forth wiggle at 9:00 & 3:00, then again at 12:00 & 6:00 to feel for any slack or play in the hub/ steering linkage. I did this on mine already & tight as a drum. Anxious to know what you find.
 
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Potch

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Hey everyone. Thanks for the replies and insight. Something came up yesterday so I didn't get the questionable wheel off until just now.


So, the rear inside pad (left) was completely worn away and had come loose from the upper caliper clip. Even the metal noise clip was completely broken off. It also looks like the inside wall of the rotor was worn waaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyyyyy down as well. I'm really thankful that I stopped driving on it before anything catastrophic happened.

Pads
Pads.jpg

Top view looking down
Top View.jpg

Inside of rotor
Rotor.jpg


So, it looks like I'll be replacing my rear rotors and brakes along with the ones I got for the front.

On the subject of rear brakes, is it worth it to go with drilled and slotted rotors on the rear? I got the Power Stop Z36 heavy duty towing kit for the front since that's where the majority of your stopping power comes from (paid $142 w/ Amazon Prime shipping, $144 on RockAuto.com and I assume that is without shipping). Also, I figure I shouldn't need to replace the HD ones as soon as the daily driver/economy models.


Power Stop K2046 36 (HD drilled & slotted rotors, rear kit) - $174 on RockAuto, $185 on Amazon w/ Prime shipping

Power Stop K2046 23 (mid w/ drilled & slotted rotors, kit) - $162 on RockAuto, $163 on Amazon w/ prime)

Power Stop KOE2047 (daily/economy) - $103 on RoackAuto, $122 on Amazon w/ free non-prime shipping)

Rotors and pads at my local O'Reilly would end up around $160. Would be ceramic pads with standard rotors.


Also, there is a small crack in the boot of the caliper piston (inside of the right piston). Should I be replacing that as well? I'm assuming I would want to since it will probably let grease escape. If I do need to replace, any suggestions or tips would be appreciated.

Caliper Boot.jpg


Thanks again for all of your help. I really appreciate all of you for taking the time to help me out.


P
 
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Potch

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Wawa noise could be the new tires, not inflated properly or they are aggressive tread and make noise at speed..

The noise sounds like the brake squealer is hitting the rotor(need pads before rotors are toast) or the wheel hub is starting cease.. when they don't roll smooth they will make a wirrrr noise when they are going bad...

Looks like you were right about the brakes. Rotor is beyond toast.


I got the new tires about 3 weeks after I bought the vehicle. The noise hadn't started until recently.

The tires I went with were Pathfinder All Terrains from Discount Tire. Some of my coworkers also work at Discount so I got the set of 4 for $660 installed w/ warranty. Went back later and got a spare for $130 (different tread pattern).


P
 
Last edited:

corvette744

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Hey everyone. Thanks for the replies and insight. Something came up yesterday so I didn't get the questionable wheel off until just now.


So, the rear inside pad (left) was completely worn away and had come loose from the upper caliper clip. Even the metal noise clip was completely broken off. It also looks like the inside wall of the rotor was worn waaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyyyyy down as well. I'm really thankful that I stopped driving on it before anything catastrophic happened.

Pads
View attachment 180833

Top view looking down
View attachment 180834

Inside of rotor
View attachment 180836


So, it looks like I'll be replacing my rear rotors and brakes along with the ones I got for the front.

On the subject of rear brakes, is it worth it to go with drilled and slotted rotors on the rear? I got the Power Stop Z36 heavy duty towing kit for the front since that's where the majority of your stopping power comes from (paid $142 w/ Amazon Prime shipping, $144 on RockAuto.com and I assume that is without shipping). Also, I figure I shouldn't need to replace the HD ones as soon as the daily driver/economy models.


Power Stop K2046 36 (HD drilled & slotted rotors, rear kit) - $174 on RockAuto, $185 on Amazon w/ Prime shipping

Power Stop K2046 23 (mid w/ drilled & slotted rotors, kit) - $162 on RockAuto, $163 on Amazon w/ prime)

Power Stop KOE2047 (daily/economy) - $103 on RoackAuto, $122 on Amazon w/ free non-prime shipping)

Rotors and pads at my local O'Reilly would end up around $160. Would be ceramic pads with standard rotors.


Also, there is a small crack in the boot of the caliper piston (inside of the right piston). Should I be replacing that as well? I'm assuming I would want to since it will probably let grease escape. If I do need to replace, any suggestions or tips would be appreciated.

View attachment 180835


Thanks again for all of your help. I really appreciate all of you for taking the time to help me out.


P
I can't believe that freakin rotor?
 
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