NHTSA opens preliminary probe into more than 870,000 GM vehicles

[jfoj]

Extreme fuel dilution in the engine oil. Best to start the engine, and drive withing 30 seconds or so depending on the ambient temperature. Clearly a bigger problem in the Winter when the temps are cold.

Some may choose to remote start the engine and allow it to warm up in the Winter for 15 minutes or so before getting in the vehicle. This is bad because the engine and engine oil actually take longer to warm up when not under a load.

The same can also occur in the Summer to allow the cabin to cool down, however, not at big of a problem compared to during the Winter.

Overall fuel contaminated engine oil can cause accelerated engine wear, quicker oil break down, increased oil consumption and set up the conditions for Low Speed Pre Ignition (LSPI). All things that can reduce the overall engine life and even in some cases cause catastrophic engine damage.

This testing was performed on a Diesel engine, but overall it is not much different than with a gasoline engine -

A few other useful videos that explain in more detail

 

[Scarey]

Good stuff, thanks.

 

[Vladimir2306]

Extreme fuel dilution in the engine oil. Best to start the engine, and drive withing 30 seconds or so depending on the ambient temperature. Clearly a bigger problem in the Winter when the temps are cold.

Some may choose to remote start the engine and allow it to warm up in the Winter for 15 minutes or so before getting in the vehicle. This is bad because the engine and engine oil actually take longer to warm up when not under a load.

The same can also occur in the Summer to allow the cabin to cool down, however, not at big of a problem compared to during the Winter.

Overall fuel contaminated engine oil can cause accelerated engine wear, quicker oil break down, increased oil consumption and set up the conditions for Low Speed Pre Ignition (LSPI). All things that can reduce the overall engine life and even in some cases cause catastrophic engine damage.

This testing was performed on a Diesel engine, but overall it is not much different than with a gasoline engine -

A few other useful videos that explain in more detail

It's all in one place here. Fuel getting into the engine oil has nothing to do with engine warming up. Warming up the engine is just necessary, and even on a hot day in the summer, you cannot start the engine and drive right away. Even in summer you need to let the engine warm up. It is the information that it is impossible to warm up as it is disseminated by environmentalists. In addition to the Yukon, I also have a BRP 300 horsepower jet ski, since no one cares about the environment, and it requires warming up for at least 2-3 minutes at idle, and then 5-10 minutes at medium speed. This is provided that the jet ski is used in hot weather.
So, warming up the engine, especially in winter, is necessary; remote start is great for this, which makes warming up faster, keeping the speed higher. Next, does fuel get in during warm-up or when idling? Yes, it does.
Fuel gets into the oil when the car moves around the city at low speeds. To burn it out of the oil, you need to regularly drive at high speeds of 2500-3500 crankshaft revolutions per minute. At this moment, the engine, oil and fuel in it become very hot, and the fuel evaporates. Therefore, cars that drive fast on the highway do not have the problem of fuel in the oil.
To summarize, if you don’t warm up the engine and drive straight away, this will not get rid of the problem of fuel in the oil, because fuel gets there from driving slowly. But an engine without warming up can get much more problems due to uneven heating, getting scuffed inside.
I already wrote above that the problem with GM engines is not oil. The previous generation also runs great on 0-20 oil. And I myself have driven 0-20 oil in the 2022 Yukon for 115 thousand km. The problem is poor quality engine assembly. Something went wrong at GM; new engines come out of the box with seized pistons. Bearings are a consequence, not a cause.

 

[seatown]

It's all in one place here. Fuel getting into the engine oil has nothing to do with engine warming up. Warming up the engine is just necessary, and even on a hot day in the summer, you cannot start the engine and drive right away. Even in summer you need to let the engine warm up. It is the information that it is impossible to warm up as it is disseminated by environmentalists. In addition to the Yukon, I also have a BRP 300 horsepower jet ski, since no one cares about the environment, and it requires warming up for at least 2-3 minutes at idle, and then 5-10 minutes at medium speed. This is provided that the jet ski is used in hot weather.
So, warming up the engine, especially in winter, is necessary; remote start is great for this, which makes warming up faster, keeping the speed higher. Next, does fuel get in during warm-up or when idling? Yes, it does.
Fuel gets into the oil when the car moves around the city at low speeds. To burn it out of the oil, you need to regularly drive at high speeds of 2500-3500 crankshaft revolutions per minute. At this moment, the engine, oil and fuel in it become very hot, and the fuel evaporates. Therefore, cars that drive fast on the highway do not have the problem of fuel in the oil.
To summarize, if you don’t warm up the engine and drive straight away, this will not get rid of the problem of fuel in the oil, because fuel gets there from driving slowly. But an engine without warming up can get much more problems due to uneven heating, getting scuffed inside.
I already wrote above that the problem with GM engines is not oil. The previous generation also runs great on 0-20 oil. And I myself have driven 0-20 oil in the 2022 Yukon for 115 thousand km. The problem is poor quality engine assembly. Something went wrong at GM; new engines come out of the box with seized pistons. Bearings are a consequence, not a cause.

You had an update of pictures?

 

[jfoj]

It's all in one place here. Fuel getting into the engine oil has nothing to do with engine warming up. Warming up the engine is just necessary, and even on a hot day in the summer, you cannot start the engine and drive right away. Even in summer you need to let the engine warm up. It is the information that it is impossible to warm up as it is disseminated by environmentalists. In addition to the Yukon, I also have a BRP 300 horsepower jet ski, since no one cares about the environment, and it requires warming up for at least 2-3 minutes at idle, and then 5-10 minutes at medium speed. This is provided that the jet ski is used in hot weather.
So, warming up the engine, especially in winter, is necessary; remote start is great for this, which makes warming up faster, keeping the speed higher. Next, does fuel get in during warm-up or when idling? Yes, it does.
Fuel gets into the oil when the car moves around the city at low speeds. To burn it out of the oil, you need to regularly drive at high speeds of 2500-3500 crankshaft revolutions per minute. At this moment, the engine, oil and fuel in it become very hot, and the fuel evaporates. Therefore, cars that drive fast on the highway do not

Fuel gets into the oil when the car moves around the city at low speeds. To burn it out of the oil, you need to regularly drive at high speeds of 2500-3500 crankshaft revolutions per minute. At this moment, the engine, oil and fuel in it become very hot, and the fuel evaporates. Therefore, cars that drive fast on the highway do not have the problem of fuel in the oil.

Vladimir,

I have a few questions:

1. How regularly/often do you drive at high speed with the engine RPM between 2500-3500?

2. How far (distance)/long (time) do you typically drive at high speed with the engine RPM between 2500-3500?

3. How fast do you typically drive at high speed with the engine RPM betwen 2500-3500?

4. What transmission setting do you typically drive at high speed with the engine RPM between 2500-3500?

5. Have you performed any oil analysis of your engine oil at time of oil changes?

 

[Vladimir2306]

You had an update of pictures?

No, there are no new photos))) they appear in our chat periodically

 

[Vladimir2306]

Vladimir,

I have a few questions:

1. How regularly/often do you drive at high speed with the engine RPM between 2500-3500?

2. How far (distance)/long (time) do you typically drive at high speed with the engine RPM between 2500-3500?

3. How fast do you typically drive at high speed with the engine RPM betwen 2500-3500?

4. What transmission setting do you typically drive at high speed with the engine RPM between 2500-3500?

5. Have you performed any oil analysis of your engine oil at time of oil changes?

If we are talking about the track, then I drive fast and a lot. for example, a month ago I drove from one city to another at a distance of 660 km, with an average speed of 141 km/h, this turns out to be 412.5 miles, with a speed of 88 miles per hour. I drove almost the entire way on cruise control at a speed of 170 kmh (106 mph) and in this mode the revolutions were about 3500 per minute. It was over 4.5 hours continuously.
No, I didn’t do an oil analysis, I don’t see any point in it.
It’s enough for me that when I change the oil (and I change it every 12,000 km (7,500 miles)) they cut open the oil filter and examine what’s inside.
I drive on the highway in Normal mode. If with a trailer, then in Trailer mode.
I usually travel long distances once a month on average. Or approximately every 3-5 thousand kilometers.
If we are talking about everyday driving. So yes, I always warm up the engine. Both in winter and in summer.
In the summer, I start the engine from the key fob, and while I’m leaving the car it works for 2-3 minutes. If in winter, then I start it at least 10-15 minutes before leaving the house, so that the car is completely warmed up and the interior is warmed up. In winter we have frosts down to -25-35C.
Then for the first few distances I drive calmly, without increasing the engine speed much, until the car warms up completely.
And then, in the city, sometimes I can put the gas pedal to the floor. To periodically bring the speed up to the red zone. This burns fuel out of the oil perfectly) and, in principle, I really like the feel of the V8 during acceleration.

 

[Antonm]

The whole warm-up thing has little to do with fuel dilution its more about coolant temperature and the resultant increase in ring wear from running a cold engine.

So the people above have the right answer, just the wrong reason. Engine wear and coolant temperature are inversely proportional (within the normal ranges of coolant temperature anyway) and the longer you spend with cold coolant, the worse it is .

Pretty much the breaking point is 160F or 71C coolant temp, below that you get more significantly more engine wear. So you want to minimize the time the engine is running with coolant temp below 160F /71C.

Fast forward the below video to about the 29 minute mark and start watching from there (or watch the whole thing, its decently entertaining), he does a pretty good of explaining and showing the documents from real engineers (not random internet guessers/ influencers/ personalities,,, real engineers) about what's actually happening and why warming up by idling is unnecessary and actually slightly detrimental to engine service life.

...

 

[Jay P Wy]

Interesting video.

763K views · 11K reactions | It Blew up at 4 Miles! Part failure or assembly error? GMC 6.2L #enginebuilding #EngineRepair #autoshop #autorepair | Dave's Engines

It Blew up at 4 Miles! Part failure or assembly error? GMC 6.2L #enginebuilding #EngineRepair #autoshop #autorepair.

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[jfoj]

The 4 mile failure may have already been included here in this thread earlier. That was not a bearing issue, the piston pin retaining clip was either not properley seated, missing or the piston pin retaining clip groove was not machined. The problem is the engine was already opened up before the guy in the YouTube video received it.

Sad ending for a nice engine.