Posting this half as an ask for the wisdom of this group, and half to maybe help someone else out in the future, at least temporarily.
Started up my 2011 Yukon today here in Canada, a nice warm -6c or so (About 20f) and drove 15 minutes into town to drop some things off while the truck sat for about 15 minutes. Jump in it to start and go get some groceries, and nothing. No click, no crank, just the check engine light on the dashboard. Weird. It doesn't get driven a lot now, and I've had to boost it once this winter in some very cold spells, and it's turned over hard a few times. But today it started fine to leave home, and then nothing in town. Thought it might be the neutral safety selector, but the dash lights matched the shifter selection. Giggling the shifter, key, shifting gears, all that jazz didn't fix it.
I tried boosting just to be sure, to no help. At this time I took stock, and everything else seemed to work. Blower fan, lights, locks, windows, which seems different than many of the posts here where everything dies at once.
Hit up the YouTube while I waited for a buddy to come along with some electric grease and sockets to try and unplug the BCM connectors under the hood per this video, since that video claimed to fix the exact problem I had. I tried swapping some of the under hood fuse box relays around just in case that was it but also nothing. Just as I was getting ready to give up, I found this video from South Main Auto which has the same symptoms. Now in this video, the culprit is a corroded and non-functional fuse 35 (Labeled as DLIS). Once SMA replaces that fuse things seem to work for him. I pulled mine out and fortunately (unfortunately?) it looked fine. Replaced it, and then my buddy pulled in. Went to show him how the truck wouldn't start... and it started right up. Convenient.
Obviously not going to drive it to anywhere other than my place with it potentially going to leave me stranded, so hooked up the battery charger to it to top it off so I can test a few things tomorrow on it. But it seems like that DLIS fuse is related to the issue I'm having. Here is what I tested tonight after driving the truck home.
Touch nothing
Try and start truck
Truck starts fine
Turn off
Pull DLIS fuse
Security light is on in dash
Try to start with fuse out
Does not start
Leave key in run or acc I think?
Replace fuse
Try and start
Security light still on
Won't start
Turn key to off / remove
Try and start
Started fine
Going to try a few other combinations tomorrow to see if I can narrow down this ghost in the wires before buying a new code reader or taking it to the shop. I do have some spare fuses of that size (2a) but so far it's been working with the same fuse it started with. The wildest part of this to me is that it just started working either randomly or after re-seating a fuse.
So hopefully this is helpful to someone else who's truck tries to leave them stranded in the cold, and if anyone has ideas of the root cause or other troubleshooting steps please share!
Started up my 2011 Yukon today here in Canada, a nice warm -6c or so (About 20f) and drove 15 minutes into town to drop some things off while the truck sat for about 15 minutes. Jump in it to start and go get some groceries, and nothing. No click, no crank, just the check engine light on the dashboard. Weird. It doesn't get driven a lot now, and I've had to boost it once this winter in some very cold spells, and it's turned over hard a few times. But today it started fine to leave home, and then nothing in town. Thought it might be the neutral safety selector, but the dash lights matched the shifter selection. Giggling the shifter, key, shifting gears, all that jazz didn't fix it.
I tried boosting just to be sure, to no help. At this time I took stock, and everything else seemed to work. Blower fan, lights, locks, windows, which seems different than many of the posts here where everything dies at once.
Hit up the YouTube while I waited for a buddy to come along with some electric grease and sockets to try and unplug the BCM connectors under the hood per this video, since that video claimed to fix the exact problem I had. I tried swapping some of the under hood fuse box relays around just in case that was it but also nothing. Just as I was getting ready to give up, I found this video from South Main Auto which has the same symptoms. Now in this video, the culprit is a corroded and non-functional fuse 35 (Labeled as DLIS). Once SMA replaces that fuse things seem to work for him. I pulled mine out and fortunately (unfortunately?) it looked fine. Replaced it, and then my buddy pulled in. Went to show him how the truck wouldn't start... and it started right up. Convenient.
Obviously not going to drive it to anywhere other than my place with it potentially going to leave me stranded, so hooked up the battery charger to it to top it off so I can test a few things tomorrow on it. But it seems like that DLIS fuse is related to the issue I'm having. Here is what I tested tonight after driving the truck home.
Touch nothing
Try and start truck
Truck starts fine
Turn off
Pull DLIS fuse
Security light is on in dash
Try to start with fuse out
Does not start
Leave key in run or acc I think?
Replace fuse
Try and start
Security light still on
Won't start
Turn key to off / remove
Try and start
Started fine
Going to try a few other combinations tomorrow to see if I can narrow down this ghost in the wires before buying a new code reader or taking it to the shop. I do have some spare fuses of that size (2a) but so far it's been working with the same fuse it started with. The wildest part of this to me is that it just started working either randomly or after re-seating a fuse.
So hopefully this is helpful to someone else who's truck tries to leave them stranded in the cold, and if anyone has ideas of the root cause or other troubleshooting steps please share!